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Jrbrks

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  1. Tom, I will work on running the other tests you have suggested next weekend. Thanks again, Jim
  2. Tom, I ran the 135 engine (idling) to operating temperature and removed all plugs for the compression test: Plug #6 - slightly wet; seemed oily versus gasoline; some particulates on the curved part of the electrode that looked more like carbon or soot than metal; plug could be wiped off to look reasonable, BUT...the electrode tip was completely black across the firing surface. Plugs #2-5 - all were covered with dry, black soot, EXCEPT the electrode tip on each plug was clean and shiny(no black soot or discoloration on the electrode tip); soot was easily wiped off. Plug #1 - This plug looked somewhat "normal" without soot or black powder; electrode tip was shiny as with plugs 2-5. **Please note the car has not been driven but mostly idled in the garage. I do not know how much this (and, perhaps an incorrect carburetor) may contribute to the appearance of the spark plugs. Compression test - 2 reading per cylinder, with the first reading after 4 engine rotations and the second reading after 6 engine rotations - I started the readings at Cylinder #6 to #5 to #4 to #3 to #2 to #1 Cylinder # 6 55 and 55 Cylinder #5 70 and 70 Cylinder #4 71 and 71 Cylinder #3 70 and 70 Cylinder #2 75/70 and 70 (3 readings - 2 readings with 4 engine rotations and 1 reading with 6 engine rotations) Cylinder #1 72/74 and 74 (3 readings - 2 readings with 4 engine rotations and 1 reading with 6 engine rotations) One other observation........Cylinder # 6 built pressure in almost equal steps with each engine rotation, whereas other cylinders jumped to approximately 60 with the 1st or 2nd rotation and then went to 70-75 on final 1 or 2 rotations. I did go back and "spot check" the cylinder compression readings, even though the engine appeared to be quickly cooling. The only difference was the #6 cylinder increased to 59/60. All other cylinders tested between 70-74, as they did in the initial set of readings. A final observation.....Using a stethoscope, the #6 cylinder is much more noisy than the other five cylinders, when the engine is revved from an idle (car is not moving). Jim
  3. Thank you, Tom. I will try the things you suggest. I will also run a compression check, as I have not yet completed that. I should also note this is my first Franklin and my first experience with a car of this age. Thus, I am not entirely certain of what noises are "normal", although I know the loud banging during acceleration should not be there. I am mostly listening for significant differences among cylinders under different conditions. I appreciate the advice and guidance. I will update as I learn more. Thanks again. Jim
  4. Thank you, Tom. The #6 cylinder is more noisy with a stethoscope on idle. The hard banging or rapping only occurs on acceleration, as I have described. Revving the engine in neutral does not give the same noise, although I have not listened with the stethoscope under those conditions. Perhaps, it is worth a try? I will follow up, when I have the cylinder "jug" removed. Thanks again. Best, Jim
  5. If the #6 cylinder with the bad wristpin is out of round and must be bored, can someone provide a source for the correct oversized piston? What is the maximum amount that one of the cylinders can be bored? What type of metal alloy must the piston be constructed? Would it be preferred to purchase a replacement cylinder in good condition versus boring the existing cylinder? Are there other shop manuals (other than the Franklin factory and Dykes Automotive Encyclopedia) that might provide guidance for this disassembly/reassembly? Thank you, Jim
  6. Mike, The 135 engine runs really nice, even though the Carter BB1 updraft carburetor that I purchased from the vendor in Ohio may not be a correct carburetor (There were no tags on the carburetor, when I purchased it). At idle, etc, the engine seems quiet. With a stethoscope, you can hear more noise in #6 than the other cylinders (at idle). Under load or acceleration, it bangs quite loudly, but stops under deceleration or with coasting. The vehicle had been in dry, proper storage in Burbank, California beginning 1976. I purchased the vehicle about one year ago, and it has been running (largely idling in my garage) since Sept 2014. I would really like to get this vehicle out on the road, as we have about 360 days of sunshine and warmth per year. Short drives in my neighborhood reveal this to be a really nice driving vehicle (This is my first Franklin experience). Jim
  7. Mike, Thank you. I am located in Bakersfield, California (approximately 110 miles north of Los Angeles). Jim
  8. I am seeking advice in repairing a bad wristpin on the #6 cylinder of a 1929 Franklin Model 135 (Victoria). 1) Is there a source of detailed instructions to complete such a repair? --I do have the Parts and Owners/Service books for the 1929 Model 135, but it provides no detailed pictures or instruction. --I also have the Dykes Automotive Encyclopedias from both 1929 and 1933, but these books do not provide a description nor drawings for this type of repair for the Franklin engine. 2) Is it possible or advised to complete this repair on the #6 cylinder (closest to the firewall) with the engine in the vehicle? 3) Does anyone have instructions or advice as to the steps to disassemble the #6 cylinder? --Are there specific things to be aware of in disassembly and assembly? --What is the best way to remove the valve assembly? --Do the intake and exhaust manifolds need to be completely removed from the engine? My engine has the heater box on the exhaust manifold, if this matters. 4) I understand I will need to have the cylinder checked for proper cylinder dimensions. --If the cylinder needs to be machined and a new piston installed........Is there a source for a proper oversized piston/rings? --I am guessing the air-cooled engine requires a piston made of a specific metal alloy? 5) Are there additional questions that I am not asking? Thank you for any thoughts or advice. Jim
  9. Thank you for the great responses. I genuinely appreciate this. I will be crafting a replacement wiring harness, and this will help to plan properly. I will look into the various options to determine my best course. Thanks, Jim
  10. Thank you, Al. Unfortunately, my tail light is on a "pedestal" that angles to the left. Because there was only one tail light, I am unaware of a pedestal that angles to the right. Thanks again, Jim
  11. Thank you for the replies. I am wondering if the LED bulbs can be used, as I will be replacing the wiring harness soon. Or, are there other creative options or approaches to adding the second brake lite and turn signals? Mine is a 1929 Franklin 135 Victoria that carries the spare tire on a rear mount. Jim
  12. I have used CL to sell vehicles in the last year. I am not a dealer or sales person of any type. I meet only in a public place and have the vehicle ready to deliver, e.g. serviced, clean and with a clear statement of my acceptable price. As I have a full-time job, I can actively debate with people at work and have no interest in arguing with others. In my limited experience, the "odd" inquiries occur fairly soon after the advertisement first posts. I do not respond to those. For modern or collector vehicles, if I do not receive credible inquiries within the first two days, I believe I am pricing too high. I remove the ad, wait the required 48 hours and lower my price, until I begin to receive credible inquiries. This is my version of a market-pricing survey, and I agree it is not sophisticated. Many people are rationale and are willing to pay a fair price, if they want the vehicle. I have met some nice folks and have only had one "buyer" not show up at the agreed time and location. I do not enjoy the experience, but it has not been unacceptable. Jim
  13. Is it possible to lift the front end of a 1929 Franklin 135 by placing the hydraulic jack in the center of the tubular bar going between the two front wheels (the central attachment point of the front leaf springs)? I would like to lift both front wheels at the same time, if possible. Thanks, Jim
  14. Any thoughts on how to run a reliable oil pump pressure gauge on an engine like the 1929 135? Thanks, Jim
  15. Lisa, Were you able to attach a picture of the throttle return spring attachment on your car? I do not see the picture referred to in your post. Thank you, Jim
  16. Thank you, Jon. I appreciate your thoughts and advice. I will check the items you suggest. How might I determine if the carburetor is a BB-1A or BB-1D? Being new to Franklins and to vehicles of this age, I went with the recommendation on the original Franklin Q&A section of the club website. It listed the BB-1 as the primary viable replacement for the Strombergs, but I found no delineation of the 1A or 1D requirement. Thus, I went by the throat size (attaching to intake manifold) to match that of the pot-metal Stromberg T2 that came with the vehicle. Thank you, again. Jim
  17. I am wondering if anyone has a clever option for adding a brake and turn signal light to the passenger side of the early vehicles that have only a single tail light. It would need to be a six volt fixture compatible with a positive ground. I have a 1929 Franklin Victoria Brougham that I am preparing to re-wire and would like to find an option, e.g. I could possible mount a thin rectangular light between the bars of the rear bumper. I would like to find something that would not be too apparent when the car is sitting and does not look like an inexpensive or cheap trailer light. I am wondering what approach others on this board have taken? Thank you Jim
  18. I installed a Carter BB-1 updraft carburetor on my 1929 Model 135. Adjusting the idle mixture screw completely in and completely out has essentially no effect on the engine idle or the engine vacuum (engine vacuum gauge needle is stable at between 15 and 16 psi). Accelerating and decelerating the engine results in changes in the vacuum reading, as would be expected. If I completely remove the idle mixture screw, the engine vacuum drops and the engine stalls. I purchased the carburetor as a rebuilt unit from a vendor in Ohio, and this was the model recommended on the Franklin website, as the correct Stromberg is virtually impossible to find (I do have the original Stromberg, but it has the pot metal body and is, thus, unusable). Thank you for any guidance or advice. A lead for the correct carburetor would also be welcomed, but I have all but given up on finding one and it seems the Carter should work. Jim
  19. I would like to tune and set the timing on my 1929 Model 135, and I am confused as to how many of the hoods and/or housings need to be removed to be able to observe the "delta" slot on the fan. The owners manual identifies (Figure 702): 1) The upper air hood 2) The middle air hood 3) The lower air hood 4) The fan housing On page 901 of the manual, it states to remove the "engine air housing" to observe the "delta" slot. If the fan housing is to be removed, is there a simple way to do so? My vehicle has a heater, so there is a "snorkel" of tubing coming our of the "fan housing" to a box on the exhaust manifold (generator side of the motor). Might removing this "snorkel" be enough to view the delta slot? I am fine removing each of the hoods and housing listed above, but it seems to be a complicated procedure. I want to be certain I am not missing something obvious, having not owned or worked on one of these engines previously. I have also checked the "question and answer" forum on the club webpage and did not find any information on specifically which parts to remove for access to the delta slot. Thanks for any advice or guidance. Jim
  20. Thank you, West. I appreciate the advice and will purchase the 8011. Best Jim
  21. West or others, Do you have any thoughts as to whether the 8011 or 8902 would be most appropriate for something like a 1929 Franklin with an updraft carburetor? I could mount near the fuel tank or in the front near the carburetor. I have only recently purchased this vehicle (and this is my first experience with a vehicle of this vintage) and understand the fuel pump pressure is quite low. I would plan to run on the mechanical fuel pump and use the electric pump for priming and vapor lock. But, if the mechanical pump malfunctioned, it would be nice to have this as a fully functional backup. Thanks, Jim
  22. Thank you, Tom. I hope you had a wonderful Christmas, as well. Best, Jim
  23. All: One of the members on the Chevrolet forum provided this link to the Delco Remy catalog, which provides specific information as to which parts for the Franklin Delco-Remy 640T distributor cross reference to various other cars and especially to the 1950's Chevrolets. The link is: http://www.collectorsautosupply.com/DELCO.PDF As a new Franklin owner, I am most appreciative of this information. My local NAPA store had all listed Echlin parts in stock (distributor cap, condenser, points and rotor). Does anyone have suggestions/recommendations for appropriate plug wires and spark plugs? Thanks again for all the help and advice on this forum. I genuinely appreciate it. Jim
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