tly410

I have a 1941 Buick Super 56s and have an unusual noise coming from what I suspect is in the drive train somewhere. The noise is a a click, click, click or clack, clack, clack, type of noise. It is most noticeable and loudest when starting off in first gear. While accelerating, the speed of the clacking noise corresponding increases and becomes fainter, until it gradually fades away at the higher RPM's, just before shifting into second gear. While traveling slowly in first gear, the noise will go away if the clutch is depressed and the car coasts. The noise does not happen in second or third gear or reverse. It only happens in first gear. I have put the car up on jack stands and with the car idling in first gear, with the drive train turning, I tried to pinpoint the location of the noise. It is definitely coming from the area of the bell housing/transmission/torque ball, and is not further back in the drive train, but I can't imagine what is causing it. I have had a repair shop remove the transmission and replace any possible damaged parts, gears, bearings, syncro's etc. and also have had the clutch and pressure plate replaced at the same time. I have also had the torque ball and u-joint disassembled and inspected. During all this work, nothing obvious was found which could be causing the problem. These efforts did nothing to change or eliminate the noise. I have talked with other Buick owners, who have told me they have the same noise coming from their car and experience the same circumstances. They too are perplexed as to what might be the problem. I have driven my car to local cars shows for about 10 years with this condition. The car drives fine, it's just noisy in first gear, which is somewhat embarrassing when you are traveling along slowly in a car show event. I'm hoping someone out there in Buick land who has possibly experienced this problem might provide me with a cure or possible ideas as to what might be wrong. I'd like to get it fixed. Thanks, in advance, Tim York

Just for info an update on availability, On 4-5-17, I called and checked Chevs of the 40's to find they are out of stock on this item, with no idea when or if they will be back in stock

Thanks Michael. What you said makes sense to me and explains why I have two lines going to the motor. I'll do as you suggested and cap off one of the lines and call it good. Tim

Thanks to those of you who replied to my post. My car has only one wiper motor It is located on the driver's side. The driver's side wiper arm attaches to the drive shaft on the motor. The passenger side wiper arm is attached to a free turning or rotating pin on a bracket mounted on the passenger side of the header. This allows the passenger side wiper arm to pivot freely. It is connected to the driver's side arm with a small "U" channel, which keeps them operating in tandem with each other. It all appears to be correct and original to the car. I just don't know how the vacuum hooks up. Tim

I'm hoping someone out there in Buickland can help me with understanding the vacuum line system on a 1930 sedan. My car has one vacuum line from the engine to the control valve which I believe supplies the vacuum to the system. The control switch mounted in the dash, has three metal lines attached to it. One is connected to the engine vacuum. The other two travel, I suspect, to the header above the windshield where the wiper motor is located. On the outside of the car, on the header near the motor, there are two metal lines sticking out. Neither of them have a hose attached and they are both open ended. The wiper motor only has one vacuum pipe nipple coming out of it. When vacuum is applied to this by sucking on it, it seems to work fine, with the drive shaft rotating back and forth as it should. My question is....... why are there two metal lines coming out of the valve, traveling up to the header, and how are the two lines supposed to be connected to the motor, which appears to be set up for only one line? If anyone has a working wiper system, maybe they can help by telling me, if my system is correct and if so, how the motor is connected to the vacuum lines coming out of the header. Thanks in advance, Tim York BCA #32988

I have a 1930 Buick model 57 with a lot of slop in the steering box. I'm hoping someone out there might have suggestions on how to eliminate excessive play in the steering box. With the wheels pointed straight ahead, I have about a quarter turn of slop in the steering wheel, before the pitman arm begins to move. It is a stressful chore trying to keep in in within the lane when driving and therefore a rather unpleasant experience. I have no knowledge on how the worm gear adjustment functions, but suspect that is what needs to be done to resolve the problem. It would be a great help if someone could provide some input or maybe some photos on the internal mechanics of the steering box, so I can make the needed adjustments and make it a more comfortable driving experience. Tim York BCA #32988

Pete, you will find quite a selection of parts for your 41 Buick at Bob's Automobilia. http://bobsautomobilia.com I know they will have the hood letters and the headlight door (ring) as well as many other parts you might need. They most likely won't have the stainless hood trim strips however. Good luck with your new project. The 41 Buicks are very comfortable cars and drive well. Tim York BCA #32988 1930 Buick 57 1941 Buick 56S

Hoping to find a temperature gauge, complete and functional, for a 1930 Buick. I'm hoping someone out there has one they will sell. Thanks, Tim York BCA #32988

Listed on Ebay and thought I'd post this on the forum in the event anyone out there is looking for a fabric trunk and rack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fabric-Trunk...3d2064&vxp=mtr Tim York BCA #32988

Listed on Ebay and thought I'd post this on the forum in the event anyone out there is looking for a fabric trunk and rack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fabric-Trunk-and-Rack-for-your-vintage-antique-classic-custom-or-hot-rod-/301507354724?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46333d2064&vxp=mtr Tim York

From what little I know...... the dash for all models in 1930 were interchangeable with respect to size and configuration, which agrees with Michael's reply. My understanding was the woodgrain finish was correct for 60 series only and black for 40 and 50 series, but I'm not sure. I like the woodgrain finish so if it was indeed correct for a 50 series that would be great. I also think the dash style and gauge shapes were different from year to year, so I don't think one from a 29 would be correct for a 30 car. In regard to Mark's reply, my car is a model 57 which I believe is considered a Master.

I am in need of the sheet metal instrument panel face plate for a 1930 Buick. This is the flat sheet metal piece that has holes for the all gauges, controls and switches. Please contact me if you have access to one or know where I can find one. Thanks for the help. Tim York BCA# 32988

Trying to locate an original clip on style interior door handle for a 1930 Buick 50 series. Hoping to find one instead of popping for a reproduction in stainless steel. Anyone out there have one available? Thanks, Tim York BCA #32988

I have a 1930 Buick model 57 sedan. I can't figure out how to operate or "turn on" the windshield wiper switch. I've tried pulling out on the switch and it doesn't budge. I've tried turning the knob from side to side. When turned to the right I find it doesn't move. When turned to the left........ the knob and shaft unscrew from the switch housing. I wonder if the wiper switch operates by pulling out on the knob and maybe mine may just be stuck in the housing? I don't want to get too physical with it unless I know how it's suppose to work for fear of breaking something. I've talked with others who have a 1930 Buick, and found we all share the same problem. I'm sure someone out there must have a functioning switch and/or has some knowledge on how the switch should operate. Any help you can provide is appreciated. Thanks, Tim York BCA #32988

It's always nice to hear good news when someone finds a solution to a problem, even if they find it on their own. My hat is off to you for solving the problem! Good job and thanks for sharing with others. Tim

Jules, thanks for your input. I would be interested to learn more about how you made and installed the divider, as well as how you managed to get another bulb inside the assembly. When you say you had a separate "feed" from the reverse light switch..... you lost me. Did you install a separate switch for the reverse light, totally independant from the brake light switch ? If you get a chance to post some pics, it would be a great help. Tim

Thanks for all the input. Based on the replys to my question, I have to believe mine is working the way it was designed, just a poor design. I agree with the understanding that if a divider plate was installed, only one or the other would be illuminated, as there is only one bulb, one wire and one switch, to light both the brake and reverse lights.

Thanks Bud for the reply to my question. I am assuming you are referring to a "divider" or shield to block and separate light from the brake (stop) light lens from getting to the reverse light lens. I think you might be onto something. It makes sense. It would be nice to see the inside of one that works properly.

I have a question regarding a 1930 combination brake light/reverse light/taillight assembly. When I apply the brakes, the brake (stop) light illuminates as it should, however the clear reverse light also is illuminated at the same time. If I have the transmission in reverse without any brake application, both the brake light (stop) and the reverse light come on. The taillight portion of the light seems to work properly, illuminating only the lower portion of the light assembly and it is uneffected by the brake or reverse light. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong with the brake/reverse light function or is it normal to illuminate both? Are they on separate circuits or the same? I can't imagine them both being on the same circuit as it provides a white light to the rear when the brakes are applied and in my state (CA) that is illegal. I've checked the wiring diagrams and they show both the reverse light and brake light are operated by the same switch mounted on the transmission. The diagrams also show only two wires going to the light assembly. I would assume one is for the brake/reverse light and one for the taillight? Anyone out there familiar with how the lights are suppose to work? Thanks for your input, Tim

Wayne, I have a 41 Super with dual carbs (strombergs) and like Meteor mentioned above, I have the opposite condition than you. If my car sits for a month or more, the fuel either evaporates or drains back to the tank, requiring a cranking period so fuel to be pumped back into the carbs before it will fire up. In regard to your condition...... smelling gas is a good indication it is flooding. Have you checked the function status of the automatic choke? Remove the air cleaner unit and look at the postion of the choke. If it is stuck in the closed position, it will cause the engine to flood as it won't get enough air flow, just raw gas. They do have some adjustment, but first I'd check to make sure it's not stuck in the choked position. Just for info, I don't believe there is any "adjustment" for the starting switch and don't think that would be your problem. Hope this helps, Tim

I have no idea what your ornament might have originally been from, but here is a link to a flying goddess ornament that is correct for your 1935 Buick. Hope this helps. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Buick-Flying-Lady-Hood-Ornament-/231314109231?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35db65332f&vxp=mtr Tim

Looking for headlight stanchion tubes and nuts for a 1930 Buick. If you have any available or know of a source for some, please let me know. Really only need one, as one of mine is dented and damaged, but can buy a pair. Thanks, Tim BCA #32988

Unfortuneately I don't have any shades to take and have restored like you did, and before buying any from LaBaron Bonney I need to know what lengths are correct, hence the reason for this quest. Tim

Thanks for the reply to my question. In the event no one with a 1930 helpf me out, I'll look forward to your information. When you measure the shades, can you also measure across the windows from side to side? This will be of interest to establish if the windows are the same size as the windows in my 1930 Tim BCA #32988

I have a 1930 Buick 5 passenger sedan model 57. When I purchased the car I found it had no window shades in it. I would like to install shades for the two rear quarter windows and one for the rear window, however I'm not sure of the correct lengths. If anyone knows the length of the shades or has the ability to measure them from their own car, I would appreciate the info. Measurements from bracket to bracket would be helpful as well as the actuall shade width. Thanks, Tim