riviadrian

I pulled them both back off and the only metal tab is at the bottom. There is a metal tab at the top of the quarter panel also. Not sure what it is for either. It has been a year since I removed all of this, so I am kicking myself for not taking more/better pics. This is how we learn i suppose. I can make brackets, but it had to be put together right when I took it all apart.

I got the bottom screws into the tabs, now the top of it will not stay tight against the panel. There seems to be nothing to attach the screws to except the vinyl on the new panel. Anyone else experience this and have a solution???

Thanks Bill! That's exactly what I needed. I was pretty sure I was correct, but I didn't want to start putting screw holes in the new panel that didn't belong. I also didn't want to put them in wrong and tear my new leather. Thanks again! -Adrian-

Does anyone have a picture of the back seat side metal trim installed without the seats in?? I apparently didn't take enough pics when I removed it all, and can't find anything specific about it in the body manual. I just had new leather seat covers installed and also replaced the back door panels. Don't want to mess up my new covers by installing incorrectly or taking in and out of the car 30 times. Thanks! -Adrian-

Thank you, I used a 3m trim adhesive the first time I tried this and it did not work out. I had to completely remove it all and start all over from scratch. Now I am considering putting wood on my console since I am recovering it currently as well. I always thought the wood seemed a little out of place on a 63 since the console had vinyl. I have pieces of leather (pigskin) cut already to install on the console, just not sure which will wear better/last longer. Thanks for the help! Hopefully mine will turn out better the second time around.. -Adrian-

Hey Schmiddy, What product did you use to glue your wood veneer to the metal? I am at this point (again) and don't want to screw it up again. Thanks, -Adrian-

I am also at this point of my interior rebuild. I have just started my research on this while disassembling my door panels. Several posts on this forum suggest using a foil backing behind your veneer for a vapor barrier. Apparently this will keep your veneer from buckling and cracking over time. I noticed when I removed the wood from my panels that there was a foil layer between the metal frame and the wood veneer. As I said, I am still researching the how-to on this forum, so I wish I had more answers. That said, a little more research might just be worth the time. I know I don't want to do this all over again in a few years. Good luck!! -Adrian-

Thanks Jim, I will get back to work. Hopefully a simple fix, but then again nothing on this car has been terribly simple yet. -Adrian-

I have been trying to get this 63 a/c sorted out for awhile now. I was hoping to avoid over-paying a shop to get it right, but ... I have replaced broken sliders, all cables, and vacuum lines. At one time I had the system "working' but air only blowing through the center vent. After replacing the rest of the vac lines, now the blower won't operate unless I jump it from the battery. When I get it to come on, all sliders are in off position and air blows through defroster. No change when I move the sliders. Maybe a bad fuse? Vacuum lines not connected properly? I would hate to go to a vintage air system after all this work, but at $90 an hour for a shop, either way I think is gonna leave a scar on my bank account. Any suggestions or recommendations for a "fair" shop in the dallas area would be appreciated. Thanks, -Adrian-

I had a hard time as well with replacement heater core being too small. I took my original to a radiator shop and had it re-cored. It ended up being cheaper that way and obviously fits correctly. Good luck! -AB-

correction, the gasket I need goes on the firewall behind the heater box. rectangle shaped.

After having my heater core repaired, it is about time to put the rivi back together. I need to find replacements for the rubber "gasket?" that goes over the hole in the firewall under the core, as well as the rubber pieces that go between the plastic a/c heater boxes under the dash. I obviously don't know the proper names for these pieces, so it makes it hard to look them up on different websites. Any help would certainly be appreciated. Thanks! -Adrian-

I have finally solved my problem with the broken a/c sliders. I was thinking of going with vintage air kit, but to me the dash in a 63 is half the cool factor of the car, so I didn't want the sliders to just be decoration. I've read the "tech tips" section on repairing the broken slider, but after a lot of searching, I found half of the assembly from a wildcat, and the other half from an electra. Put them all together with the good parts I have, and you've got a riviera set-up. Now for the big question. Now that everything is cleaned and ready to be re-installed, what is the best lube to use on these? I don't want anything that will attract dust. Thanks, -Adrian-

I recently purchased a heater core for my 63 from cars inc. I have purchased several parts from them and so far have been very impressed with their products. The heater core is overall quite a bit smaller than the original, and there are no new brackets to fasten it to the inner cover. Has anyone else encountered this issue? Should I just try to make new brackets, try and have my original re-cored, or buy a better fitting part elsewhere?? Thanks, -Adrian-

When I bought my 63 a year ago one of the first things I had to do was work around the dreaded frozen water temp valve. My mechanic was able to work around that so I would have heat in the winter. Of course the temp slider on the dash is broken, so I will try to source a new part this spring from a wrecking yard. All that said, now it's getting warmer in Texas, and I will need to get the a/c going soon. I was told by the previous owner that the a/c "just needs a charge." However, when I turn on the a/c, there is no air coming from the dash vents, and it only blows through the small holes on the sides of the console. Could this be related to the broken slider??? Also, I've been advised to switch over to r134a instead of staying with r12. I've read mixed reviews on this subject, and was hoping someone could shed light on advantages/disadvantages of the switch. I was told that r12 is very expensive and hard to find. How much cost is involved in the switch over? This car is meant to be a driver, not a 100 point show car. so my concerns are comfort as well as expense. Thanks guys- -Adrian-

Hey Paul, I'm almost a year into my '63 restoration. I still have a ton to do, but I'm in the Plano area if you need to see a complete car to help put yours back together. -Adrian-

I am starting this project today. I love this forum! Hey Jim, let me know when you finish that book- I'm buying!

Thanks Ed, I'm going to take the clock apart again this week to repaint the clock hands and the tip of the speedo needle. Pete Lempert said it made a huge difference on his car, so why not?? Now that I know how easy it is to remove everything, it will drive me bananas if I don't. I renewed my ROA membership earlier today as a matter of fact. Good eye there Ed! My next hurdle will be trying to find and replace the heat/ac control assembly under the dash. Frozen water temp valve caused the usual forced breakage. I will definitely be looking here for help when I am ready to tackle that. Thanks again! -Adrian-

That's cool! My clock works and lights up now- I just love progress. This forum is greatness-

Fantastic! Thanks Ed! -Adrian-

I am attempting to repair the clock on my 63 using the discussions on this forum. The clock is removed, but I'm having trouble removing the set knob. I'm afraid of pulling and breaking it. I assume it's easy since no one mentions this in the discussions, just don't want to do anything stupid. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! -Adrian-

I need to start replacing suspension parts, shocks, body mounts etc. on my 63. Everything is original so the car drives like a ski boat. Any suggestions on where to start?? I've seen suspension kits on line, but they all seem to only have a few of the parts I would need. It seems like it would be wise financially to buy as many parts as possible in a kit as opposed to buying a ton of individual parts. Thanks, -Adrian-

Pete, My 63 has crank windows and unrestored interior. Sounds like I might have the picture of your jigsaw puzzle. I'd be happy to bring it your way, or you are welcome to stop by and take a look at it here in Plano. 214-802-3192 -Adrian-

Thank you guys, The flasher was indeed the problem. Wish I had tried that first- ha ha

Since I bought my 63 earlier this year, the right turn signal has worked fine, but the left just comes on but doesn't blink. All the bulbs have been replaced and light up. The shop manual adjustment did nothing so I removed the switch. Leaving it plugged in, sliding it back and forth, I get the same problem. I assume the switch is bad, but before I hunt for a new one I thought I'd check here first for any repair possibilities or replacement options. Has anyone found a way to repair it or a good source for replacing this part? Thanks everyone- -Adrian-