Rufcar

Darren Yes I am and Hope I can stay healthy long enough to enjoy them. Tkx

I have not been able to find the rubber that fits in the grooves in side the shifter console. Its the 2 pieces of rubber on either side of the shifter in side the cover plate. Does anyone have a pair or know where I might find something I can use? Tkx Jim F

I have seen that video and its really cool. I happen to own a 65 GS Riviera and a 69 SS Camaro. I have done both over but stock as possible with making very minor tweeks and both ride and track perfect. Not as good as my old stock Porsches but for American muscle you can go factory with modern items or like the video go radical and still have the same look and when done correctly both are cool cars.

Mike you should check with some of our supporters like Rivi Central in CA or Gene at AB+G as I know they have what you need. I do know Gene sells complete used parts kits to change over as I personally saw them in his shop. Good Luck

I call this "Jims Axiom!" Sometimes, actually in most cases, the extreme method (remove everything in this case) ends up being the quickest! !

I changed out the tires that came on my March 2014 purchase as they started to split. They were 245 and 255-40R 15's I put on the Hankook WW 237 75 R 15's At 1st you can see the huge difference in width and close to 3" in Height. The previous owner like that low sleek look and wide track we all want. I can tell you I was very skeptical with these tires on this particular car. I have used them on several Rolls Royce cars and they were fine. Today I did quick removal took them to my local garage did a quickie balance no pressure balance and then I drove it 90 mph and they tracked and rode perfect. I feel everything in a car and I always did. I do feel a minor vibration at different speeds but one of the rear rims is slightly bent. But all in all a 1000% improvement and all on the Cheep tires as stated in a previous thread $385 mounting and balancing about $50. Total time to remove from car install new tires balance clean and reinstall 1 hr. Ahh retirement The Center pic is today with the new tires.

Ed Id be glad too but every time I call over the years I never got the same salesperson twice. Going in cold my be just as good a try as any. If you need me to do anything let me know. Jim

Ed I am repeat customer and I guess since I use my old company name and its still on file I get a Company discount because he quoted me one price and then he saw I restored cars he gave me another. When I had my restoration co. I have 14 truck and 10 personal cars so I bought a lot of tires. Jim

sllsteve that's great. I started this thread so others might know what is still available. Tkx Jim

As I was reviewing the new 5 tires I just bought (see FYI tires post) I realized the spare is incorrect and tire was so large it would not fit on! With the 5 new tires coming this week I wanted a matching spare. That said Ill need (1) 15" Buick Riviera chrome road wheel with the 2-1/8" center ! Then I want to sell mine or I can swap if you want. Whatever works. Tkx Jim

Here's the site http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do 1-800-589-6789 I rechecked and my total was 385 for 5 delivered to my door. $77 each. That mean no S+H and no tax either.

No I usually call them and there never any S+H either. I buy all my tires from them direct.

FYI for 1st Gen owners, When I bought my Riv GS in March it came with Goodyear Eagle GT tires 245 60R 15 F and 255 60 R 15 R in pretty decent shape even though they were way low and wide but looked great and rode well. Today after my usual spirited ride I had a flat tire and found the side wall cracking. I really wanted wide tires with narrow white walls and after my usual search of everything I found that Hankook has one of the only WW still available and in one size 235 75 r 15 with 3/4' ww. I have used these on Rolls Royce cars and there great. I ordered 5 and with my company discount $380 delivered. The pickings are getting slimmer every year for WW. That's why I got 5 that way with 5 tire rotation and regular driving they should last a long while. I had to laugh because my Z06 tires cost a lot more then that each! I actually had the salesman repeat the price! LOL Jim F

Rob, Congrads on the Porsche. I have had several raced several and still have 2 a 73 RS 3.4 hot rod and a 1990/93 one of 2 RUF BTR C-4 a 205 MPH street car. I just sold off 3 Rolls Bentley cars as they break constantly. The 2 Porsches I have a total of 26 yrs and nothing has ever broke or let me sit. I have only done oil changes and valve adj . Your going to be very impressed. Plus you should get very good MPG too! Again Congrads!

I saw this ad and its made me laugh out loud and I am from PA about 100 mi from this guy. http://scranton.craigslist.org/cto/4545532510.html

Here is what I have found out. #1 NO ONE MAKES A REPO! #2 most used ones are cracked like the one you probably want replaced. #3 I called all the usual suspects and Gene of AB+G had 1 real good one left and I bought that one. Once it comes I will try and figure out a way to repair the other.

As I keep repairing items on my car I noticed the gas pedal keeps coming loose on one side and I have read the balls behind them get worn. But what I have found is that the pedal socket wears out and or cracks. The question is #1 does anyone make a replacement? or #2 does anyone have a good way of repairing there existing one? I have spent the last 40+ yrs doing historic building restoration and cars but for some reason I cant seem to come up with an idea that might work in this situation? Thanks Jim

I used small riffle files and spent a day to file out all the painted ares till smooth. Then painted the same area with the original castiron gray paint and even tbough there are still some nicks on the raised chrone areas they are greatly improved. Option 2 get a better unit with very little denting from sone if our supporters like gene at ab+g or bob stamm or others. One of our members has a NOS.set for 3k. So you have options.

Often brake vibrations ( I am guessing that's what it is?) is the rear drums. The best thing to do is start from scratch. 1st did you change out all of the rubber brake hoses including the one on top of the rear axel? Did you remove all 4 drums clean them, clean and inspect the shoes and brake cylinders? Did you carefully adjust all 4 drums and shoes? Including checking the wheel bearing grease and the nut adjustment? I'd do all of the above and start from there including flushing and checking the master cylinder too. If a car sits 6 months or more you will have brake problems. Remember that the fluid is hydroscopic and that means the fluid takes on moisture and it all settles in the lower parts of the system. Maybe you have already done this and in that case this is a recap! Good Luck!

I just went through that exercise called all the usual suppliers and I put my passenger side on the drivers side and AB+G (one of our site sponsors) sold me a pretty nice saddle one with a 1/4" x 1/8" tear near the center grab bar which I filled and colored, bronze sprayed the inner grab handle and now I have 2 original perfect doors with the exception of new wood.

I just had mine out on Monday and what I do is push down or lift up around everything so it is not stuck on something. Mine was not moving so I carefully pried toward me on both from edge corners to get it moving then once I broke it loose I took my time moving it forward since I never did this type before and I did not know what to expect next. Once forward a bit, I saw that someone installed 2 modern speakers so I had to remove the wires and then I was able to contort it out of its space. My insulation was hanging everywhere so I was careful not to tear it all up. Once out I replaced all my dash bulbs I couldn't reach from underneath, I re-glued the insulation with 3m contact spray cement I installed the correct and missing clips, cleaned the glass you can never reach, cleaned the actual top itself and I had a bronze metallic spray that matched so I masked off the grill sprayed it, then installed the top with the correct screws. Now its your turn! Good luck.

Wkenyon, Im in central PA where is the car Im retired maybe I can help? Jim

Mitch has the right idea on the body. Being a long time Rolls guy and restorer I have found that non driven cars are the #1 problem. We always suggest that if you don't drive your car regularly then every year you should drain EVERY liquid out and install fresh. i.e. the rear ring and pinion gear in a Silver Cloud costs over 6,000 plus another 1000 to install and more. That said non running clouds develop microscopic rust particles on the exposed gears and then when driven drive that rust into the bearing and after a few years of this grinds them up. That same scenario hold true for more moving parts. The brake fluid is hydroscopic and that moisture rusts the entire brake system. Same with wheel bearings engine bearings etc. Plus you really should keep your cars in a heated garage and dehumidify in summer.

I was just at AB+G s on Sat and he has every piece you need, drawers full and all organized. Id strongly suggest you go there and pick out everything you need.

I just did all 4 windows. I used electrical contact spray cleaner on all the switches and racked them all back and forth many times and I did the spray and rocking several times. I removed the outside metal door skin, if nothings rusty that a 10 min or less job. I like Justice Bros. products so I used they spray can oil on every joint then I took a flux brush dipped in lithium grease and coated all the tracks. Connected the battery and run the windows up and down from all switches. I did that on all 4 and now they all work like new. I had a bad mechanical vent window gear and I replaced that unit as well. Since I am doing everything I also removed the inside panel and with both off adjusted everything. I had a rusted fast door latch I removed that soaked it in wd40 for 2 days and carefully worked it loose and reinstalled everything. If I include the time I took to replace the wood panels and arm rests it was a total of about 40 hrs for all.