Carsnz123
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Posts posted by Carsnz123
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Their main issue is cracking where the hot box attaches. I need to spend some more time with the gas torch and braze up the rest of the cracks plus reinforce where the bolts go. They are very light weight things. The 4 cylinder Plymouth exhaust manifold has more mass. Interesting you mention about the original setup having individual rings. I've fitted a similar setup to vintage Rolls Royce's in the past. Bit of an ass to get them to sit in the right spot but seal very well and quite happily survive the big 7L engine backfiring.
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Having recently rebuilt the diff in my 1929 Plymouth i have the following words of wisdom:
- Yes vent the diff. I added a fitting on the main pumpkin on the opposite side of the crownwheel and put a pipe up into the car as it goes through fords at least once a year.
- Yes grease the wheel bearings when you install them. I've seen people shagg a new set of axle bearings as the oil does take its time getting to the axle bearings. More so with the inner seal setup Chrysler employ
- The fittings by the axle bearings are designed for lube to be added (cant remember if grease or thick oil. need to dig out manual.)
- The inner seal isn't 100% important. I omitted to fitting it due to damage in the housing from an axle breaking in the distant past. no oil gets on the bakes but it does make its way down the keyway and out the hubcap.
- fitting a modern lip seal to the inner will mean you have lube the axle bearings on a regular basis.
The Plymouth and Chrysler Diffs use a similar setup. I've got 75W-90 in it due to there was a full bottle on the shelf in the garage.
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Blimey that's a long word!
Anyway. I'm currently working on a 1936 Plymouth (201, 3 speed floor change) which the owner complained about it jumping out of second. Upon dismantling the transmission I've discovered the spring loaded pin which locks the retaining collar for second gear on the mainshaft managed to jump out and go through the synchronizer making a bit of a mess of things. This allowed the gear to float on the shaft resulting in a pseudo auto disengage. To make matters worse the clowns who "rebuilt" the transmission installed the thrust washers incorrectly on the layshaft and the needle rollers have been chewing out the bronze causing 10x more endfload than specified. So it basically needs another synchronizer, second gear, bearing set, and thrust washer set. things are getting a bit pricey. Not a good time.
I have come across a 1939 Dodge D11 transmission for sale thats supposedly in good condition but its column change. It looks like the 1936 transmission but with a column change top rather than the floor shifter. The workshop manual I've got groups the 35 - 39 transmissions together under overhauling.
Does anyone know If the D11 transmission is the same as the 36 Plymouth? Will it bolt in? Is that era of transmission pretty well all the same?
Cheers
Will
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I'm trying to get the Pontiac to run properly but I don't have any specs for it.
Has anyone got information like valve clearance, ignition timing, points gap, plug gap?
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I always laugh at the factory torque specs for Bentley 4 1/4 engines. "An experienced technician with a 6" wrench." They're a whole lot of 5/16 studs so you don't need to crank them up much.
/not very helpful in this case
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19 hours ago, Chris Coon said:
The locking knock off and threads would all be in the Hub and Nut? Is that correct?
Yes.
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You are correct in saying RR and Bentley using the different style hubs (RR having a locking centre all with right hand thread and Bentley having no lock but left thread on the lead side of the car) but as far as I'm aware the wheel on the small horsepower RR cars are the same as the Bentley wheels. I'll have to check the different wheels up close at work on Monday.
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Companion marque. GMs "A car for every purse and purpose" scheme.
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3 hours ago, Craig Gillingham said:
It's a bit hard to make out, but I think they're actually 6.50-19. The splines look very much like Rudge hubs. I know some Silver Ghosts had Rudge wheels, but by the 1920's they had all changed to the Dunlop hubs. Unless the Springfield R-R used Rudge hubs. I don't know, I'm just guessing now.
Ghosts never used 19" wheels
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They are Bentley 4 1/4 and 3 1/2 wheels (30s) I spent half of today balancing the one on my boss's MX series 4 1/4. Rolls Royce 20/25 and 25/30 also used them. The disc covers over the wires were an option. You'll note 3 domes inside for adding balance weights. A valve extension should come out the hole to inflate the tyres without removing the covers.
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A friend of mine is looking at buying this car. It is Registered as a 1929 Buick but I'm not so sure. He, not being schooled in the glorious ways of vintage cars, missed a few key details namely the style of the radiator. I'm wondering if it's been made up of Buick and Marquette bits as he said it has an OHV engine but internal drum brakes. It is not uncommon for cars here in NZ to be "restored" using parts from a couple different model years.
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As a slight giggle the "torque spec" for the 30s Bentley 3 1/2 and 4 1/4 cars is "An experienced technician with a 6 inch bar." yup, torque specs weren't really a thing in the old days.
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I'll start by saying I'm no writer so anyone who has the ability feel free to correct grammar and spelling.
Oldschool.co.nz is an internet based club for anything pre 1989. We're mainly younger folk under the age of 50 taking our old cars for runs, having a good time, and not worrying about the things more conventional and organised clubs have to worry about. It's all about the people with cars and bikes thrown in the mix. Our national event for 2018 happened over the weekend on the lovely Banks Peninsula. Right on my doorstep effectively so I couldn't not go. None of my cars go at this point in time so I took my '86 Honda Rebel 450 motorbike It was basically a 4 day get-together involving driving/riding across the country side, talking about cars, and a few antics to fill in the gaps.
Friday was meet up, compete in a gymkhana, and head to camp in Wainui. We were staying at (And everyone knows its fun to stay at) the YMCA camp there. For some reason the nice Christians allowed 60 odd smelly old cars which leak oil to stay there. I ended up being late to the gymkhana due to purchasing new motorcycle boots and taking to the shop owner for ages. Got on the road with a big group and proceeded to overtake everyone (because motorbike) and had a very nice run over the hills without any traffic.
Saturday began with rain and nursing hangovers. I got woken up at 6:30 by rain on the thin roof where in was sleeping. not my bed. Just a comfortable couch I'd found the night before and nodded off on. Once the rain cleared we cruised over to Akaroa for a park up in the domain and sample New Zealand French food. If you're ever over there the butcher sells delicious pies. I took the scenic route back to camp and went for a blast over the twisties. My tyres cooling off on the shady parts of the road made for a little more excitement than I wanted initially but I soon worked out the rhythm.
Sunday was the most eventful day. It started with a tour of am expansive car collection in Governors Bay which included the firing up of a Bugatti Type 35 and a D Type Jaguar. After that was a Pub lunch and a Scavenger hunt all over Banks Peninsula. Those of us on bikes just went for a joy ride. It was my first time attending the event but it was awesome and I would recommend it to everyone who wants a weekend to remember.
Mixed bag of Pics from everyone. I was too busy riding to take any.
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Yes hand crank winch @whtbaron. 2 speed as well. basically a very big version of whats on most peoples car trailers. I'm not sure if it has any value but was hoping to use it as a bonfire for a national get together that's happening in April. Roll it up douse in diesel and throw a match at it. Camp ground isn't keen though.
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Yeah pretty much. Might see if the engine runs and run it as is if it does.
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3 hours ago, alsfarms said:
One question is how did the long block 6 engine fit into the 1934 Plymouth cars built in Canada?
Regarding the engine in the '34 Plymouth, 1938 was the first year for Canadian built engines. Its assumed that up to that date the engines were sourced form the US and were probably short blocks.
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Pretty much the major differences are block/head,manifold/crank/cam length (dah), bore/stroke figures due to the long block running bigger bores, and the fact that the 23" engines have the rods offset on their big end bearings. That's what I've learnt from pulling a couple apart. I assume you realise your IND 265 engine is a 265 cui long block. My original plan was to use a gas axe for cutting but It's closed fire season here and a friend said the saw would be faster. There is sod all in the way speed parts or any parts for that matter in this part of the world. The options are custom make it or get stuff ex USA. NOS parts turn up for sale from time to time.
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Well time flies when you're having fun And good things come to those who wait. I picked up a very rusty '59 Fargo truck which had a 4 speed floor shift box and a long block flathead six. That was the combo I wanted to start with. After violent removal with saws, a rattle gun, and the forklift I discovered the gearbox was out of a early 40s powerwagon and the engine was a 241cui. The 6.4: first gear in the trans mission means I can run a really tall diff for comfortable open road cruising..... and a 200kph theoretical top speed. The 230 motor will probably get sold and the 241 will be rebuilt as a 250 with a .0625 overbore. All the torque. The truck also had a period remote brake booster which ill see if it can be rebuilt and used on the speedster. Other than that nothing has really happened. I've got 3 weeks off so might get a little done in between Toyotas and Datsuns.
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Merry Christmas to all. Had some fun with a saw and rattle gun over the last couple days freeing the engine and trans from the Fargo.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxzO_Oy1EMLILXpfX2JFR2ppN28/view
Referencing the vintage power wagon site I think the box is from a '41-'42 WC 1/2 ton 4x4 truck. Not the correct box for the truck. the holes cut in the floor for the gear lever with a gas axe also said that.
Ratios are:
1st 6.4:1
2nd 3.1:1
3rd 1.7:1
4th 1:1
Rev 7.7:1
Engine is 3 3/8 x 4 1/2. 241cui Canadian long block. could make it a 250 with a .0625 overbore
@1939_Buick The marina only delivered the trailer. Though it was used to tow a Lada 2104 on the same trailer.
@Spinneyhill marina is '78
1929 GE Dictator Diff setup
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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Currently playing diff re-bearing games. Is there a way of getting the pinion depth and preload/clearance on these diffs that doesn't involve me spending hours with the trial and error method? The gearset is well worn so it will never be perfect. I guess question two is: What is the specs supposed to be? pinion preload? backlash? crown wheel preload?
@Gary_Ash what did you do for your indy car? seeing as the diff I'm playing with is the same type. (yes I've stolen your photo)