leomara
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Posts posted by leomara
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That is a very good question. The ones on my car and the parts car are black. Digging through a pile of hubcaps I also only remember seeing only black. These were all hubcaps from wood spoke wheels, not wire. I'm going to let someone far more knowledgeable that me speculate on this one.
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Softly, Softly, catchee monkey.....
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Check with a thread gauge before doing anything rash. I'm sure once you identify the thread size Jay will have the bolt.
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Don't know if Model 75 is like Model 72 but this is for Model 72 and may also be for Model 75:
Appears to be 13/16 nut with 20 threads per inch. An odd size, lets see if we get some other answers...
Apparently not so odd:
Dorman Standard Spindle Nut 13/16 In.-20 Hex Size 1-1/8 In. (sold by each)
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I've done some inquiries and re-coring this radiator will run between $4000 to $5000. Pricy yes but not as high as JMac1 said. And there is the repair option with Greg Sherman which would definitely be less expensive.
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This is what goes on a Model 72.
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I've got your starter....
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The shaft with impeller spins freely and there is no wobble in the shaft. There is a small piece missing from the front pulley, $100.00 plus shipping.
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I believe it's only purpose was to vibrate (make a buzzing noise) if something they were wired with was shorted out creating an excessive load. Not really a fuse or breaker but just a warning device.
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I'm picking this post back up because when I rewire my 1928 Model 72 with a new harness from one of the 2 prominent manufactures I need to eliminate this antique and either replace it with some equivalent (?) or not replace it at all. Please advise in basic layman's terms because I am electrically challenged.
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JMac1, I appreciate your candid observations. I had this radiator tested by a technician who specializes in collector car radiator restoration work and while he did say the core had leaks he did not say anything about it being beyond salvation. That aside anyone restoring a 1927-1928 Chrysler Model 72 and needing a radiator will have a very difficult time even finding one.
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More on radiator repair above.
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However, Jay said the bushings are available if the king pins are good.
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This is a 1927-1928 Chrysler radiator for a Model 72 car. It has a good frame and tanks with only surface rust. It does have leaks within the core and will require servicing. We prefer local pickup because this is a large and heavy piece, however shipping may be an option at the expense and risk of the buyer. I know that re-coring one of these honeycomb radiators is a very expensive endeavor. However, my inquiries on this forum have indicated there are skilled radiator repair people who are able to restore functionality to one of these type radiators without having to do a re-core. This is someone who was recommended to me for this purpose. Price $100
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This is a tough call because any motor with old paint is going to look similar but not the same shade as a motor with new paint.
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Try Jay, he may be able to help.
Jay Astheimer 610-863-6955 astheime@ptd.net
Pen Argyl, PA 18072-9706
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I removed the starter from my parts car using a piece of 2 X 4 and a hammer. It popped free without much effort which surprised me because the car had been sitting in the woods for 20 years. However, the casting bolted to the front of the starter which holds the Bendix is known for breakage and hard to replace. Jay has just recently had several cast from the piece he got from my starter. He says they are always in demand.
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Gas tank out, brackets remain.
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Check with Jay but I believe in a previous discussion he said king pins would need to be machined.
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There are 3 brackets, two go on the round crossmember in the rear of the car, one on each side. There is a hex bolt that going through the brackets and on the tank there is a rectangle lug welded which receives the bolt and provides a place for the hex nut to sit. On the center of the rear frame crossmember an "L" shaped bracket is bolted to the crossmember and hex bolts to the rear of the tank where there is another rectangle lug welded. I don't have a photo at this time of the "L" shaped bracket on the crossmember but will get one if you need it. The smaller one next to it on the left in the first photo is a hanger for the tailpipe.
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31 LaSalle, you will have a harder task to resolve than I do. Maybe someone like viv w could help because I believe his cars are all right hand drive.
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Chrysler Model 77 roadster, how to remove seats?
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted · Edited by leomara
More information (see edit history)
This is an interesting topic. I have no interior in my 1928 Model 72 Roadster and am still making inquiries about the configuration of the cockpit seats. The seats themselves are mounted on individual wooden frames which sit in a recess on the floor. The backrests are also on individual wooden frames with hinges at the top, two on each frame which are bolted to the perimeter wood frame of the body. Don't exactly know yet if the bottom of the backrest is somehow connected to the seat frame. In the first photo you can see the recess in the floor where the seat frames sit. The second is one of the hinge pieces attached to the rear body frame sill. The third is a backrest off a friends Model 72 showing the complete pair of hinges at the top of one of the backrests. The forth is the seat from the same car, notice the square piece of wood in the lower right quarter of the picture. When the seat sits in the floor recess that piece of wood is a stop to prevent the seat from coming forward out of it's recess. Don't know if any of this helps. Maybe? Another photo of the empty cockpit floor.