leomara

I stand corrected.

Try Jay, he has the most pre-1930 Chrysler parts: Jay Astheimer 610-863-6955 astheime@ptd.net 1092 Constitution Ave. Pen Argyl, PA 18072-9706

chistech, not if it's this type of wheel....

Fordy, no, not without going into the lock mechanism. chistech, no T-handle here, 1928 Chrysler roadster, see photo. 31nash880, I've modified the latch by changing the spring to a lesser tension.

You need to measure the diameter of the threaded part of the hub and the pitch of the threads to find the correct hub puller, there are many different sizes. Looks like this:

Thank you for your kind offer.

This vintage cam lock requires a 1 inch long square piece of 5/16 steel stock welded to it so it can be used to activate a rumble seat latch. I do not know welding but the person I asked to do it could not find a rod that would allow him to join both metals.

Something else, make sure the bolts holding the springs to the axels are tight. If not you can break a spring leaf. Check your leaves thoroughly I had 2 broken leaves on my drivers side front spring.

I would say 20 inches, a friend made them. If you have extra length you can just run it through the lug on the axel where it is clamped. There is a right side, left side, front and rear shocks. The strap needs to be pulled very taught before it is clamped so tension is achieved. This is the front drivers side.

Again, contact Harry J.

Contact Harry J on this forum.

I have not seen a piece on my car that resembles that. My Hassler shocks (snubbers) look like this.

BlueDevil, so here is the rub, R & E is transitioning their equipment because the PPG line is being difficult to obtain. Because of this they are not looking to fill orders from the PPG line of which JE 44955 is. After they transition to whatever they transition to I was informed there is a good chance the Avocado Green JE 44955 may not come out in exactly the same shade because of the different formula used to create it. This leaves me in the lurch because I've used this color and if I need to match it in the future I will have to find another source for the PPG formula type. Perhaps you can find another dealer who makes this paint from the PPG line or just get what is available wherever. I'm sure no one is going to be able to identify the difference of a shade.

And I doubt you will, my engine and bell housing were avocado green under 82 years of crude. R & E Automotive Paint & Supply will put the green into a rattle can JE 44955, Avocado Green. Your head should be a red head, mine is not so it should be silver/gray unless I fake it. This only pertains to Chrysler Model 72 Roadsters.

Hey studeboy, great information, however I would think this type of work would only be done by someone very versed in soldering techniques, not an amateur like myself. Hope springs eternal.

So many good ideas. I'll be striping a 1928 car of it's fenders, splash aprons and anything else worth salvaging. There will be many bolts in frame crevasses not necessarily large bolts but in hard to reach places. Thank you all for the help.

I've just come into possession of a poor 1928 Chrysler sedan that has spent the last 23 year in the woods. The top is gone and the doors fell off but there are some parts worth salvaging. Every bolt is rusted solid. What is the best tool to bust these off without damaging any of the sheet metal and without the use of a torch?

Good points, however the radiators I'm speaking about have come out of low milage cars, one has 11,500 miles on it and the other has 24,000 miles. No one has been driving these cars for 100 years. However, I do understand the concept of metal becoming deteriorated over the years even if it has not been used. Some of the rumors I've heard talk about finding the offending "combs" and filling them with something to isolate them from the rest of the core.

As the story goes there are ways to repair the leaks in honeycomb radiators, however, the old timers who knew how to do this are all gone and that skill has been lost to the ages. Perhaps it is a tedious labor intensive job that no one today wants to be bothered with when they can sell a re-core job for thousands of dollars. Seriously, someone out there knows how to do this, please respond.

This is going to be interesting because I too would be interested in how pre 1930 Chryslers would be judged. I've experienced difficulty trying to determine what applies or does not for my 1928 Model 72 Sport Roadster. Early Chrysler detail documentation is sparce to non-existent. Heck, there is no shop manual for my car except what is in the owners manual. Someone enlighten me please.

Exactly! What are you talking about in this post?

You probably do because that is where I got that one.....😁

That is a good question. This is the back of my headlight and there are two holes, one for the adjustment of the bulb socket shown at the lower left and one for the jewel at the bottom, no slot.

No apology required old friend....

Observe...and a correction, only 2 bolts