leomara

Sorry but I have not explored that. I bet Jay has though.....

I was under the impression from my father that many car owners put them away up on blocks for the winter months.

I had a 1933 Chevrolet coupe in high school, drove all over the place, never had any problem with the mechanical brakes. Like anything else they require proper setup and maintenance when needed.

The tower comes off when you remove 6 bolts. If your shifting forks are not overly worn there should not be anything requiring maintenance.

I have a SPORT, no such thing as a SPECIAL.

I measured my stanchion base and it's 2.5 inches across the front and 2 inches on the side. I will have to ask Metro Molded about the size because they do not give that information on the web site. I find it odd that we both have a Model 72 yet the stanchion size is different, maybe because the windshields are not the same design.

I believe you have it all. The mounting sequence is something I would like to hear too. I'm going to guess the large cupped washer with the padding second from the top goes under the motor lug with everything below it and the top padded washer goes on top of the motor lug, nut on top. Let's see what someone else has to say.

Steele Rubber offers this pair of rubber pieces to go on the bottom of the windshield stanchions mounted to the cowl. Has anyone used these successfully? I question this because there are two windshield types for Model 72 roadsters. The standard roadster has a larger windshield that follows the bevel of the cowl while the Sport Roadster has a metal insert on the cowl and the windshield is shorter and in rectangle form. Photo below is of a Sport Roadster windshield bottom.

Look at McMaster-Carr for Nylon Webbing

This piece appears to be a metal frame for a fiberboard piece that may have been used to separate the passenger compartment of the car from the rumble seat area. For that matter does anyone know what if anything was used for this purpose on this car? The 3rd photo is of this type car showing the wood which supports the seat back with the rumble seating area behind.

EZ Wheeler - 51" Truck cap Topper Lock Rod Bars

Hi again, I doubt you will find any original parts so improvisation is required. This is what it looks like inside the door. I found the long swivel rod on Ebay which is nothing old, it's a part used to secure the rear window on a pickup bed cover. Then a piece of 1/4 stock will need to be taped with a screw hole for the handle, cut to the length needed then welded into the square hole on the swivel bar. Any handle like you have on the inside doors of the car should work nicely.

I have 2 radiators for my 1928 Chrysler restoration, the honeycomb type. There is not much that can be done to repair the "core" if it leaks except to replace it. I'm willing to listen to anyone who has had success with any stop leak product because core replacement is very expensive.

I needed to resurrect this post because all of you should know that since Ebay has issued a 1099K to you for the calendar year 2022 you are obligated to report it as income. My accountant said it does not matter it was declared to be a non-issue until 2023 if Ebay has sent the IRS a 1099K statement.

Hey E-116-YH, what is the information behind my FEDCO number CC0930? Thank you.

Now comes the hard part, replacing the coils which are fused into the round bracket that mounts to the firewall. Two original coils I have are both different widths and the new coil I got from NAPA is also a different width. The old coil needs to be cut out from it's mounting bracket and the new coil has to be fitted into the mounting bracket and held in place. I've received instructions on using a hacksaw to remove the old coil from the bracket, using a Dremel tool to clean up any remaining coil from the bracket and epoxying the new coil in place. Has anyone done something else?

Cool!

Check with Jay: Jay Astheimer 610-863-6955 astheime@ptd.net 1092 Constitution Ave. Pen Argyl, PA 18072-9706

My brake and gearshift levers are black and when I cleaned them there was no indication they were ever plated. However the button on top on the brake lever appears to have been plated. An update on this, the bottom of my brake lever from the pivot point to the end had the same "avocado" green paint as I found on my engine block and bell housing. I say avocado for similar but not exact.

Hi viv w, one more option I believe is chrome plating on bright work for Model 72 Sport Roadsters but I have nothing to verify. I would love for it to be nickel, that would save me a few $$$

Jay will be able to advise you on this topic.

If you must tackle this yourself I would think ball bearings may do a better job than chains.

Or, have it cooked out. My 1928 Chrysler tank had black tar like sludge in it and I had it cooked by a place that does tanks and radiators. When I got it back I sloshed it out with gasoline and the gas came out as whistle clean as it went in.

You guys are just GREAT! Thank you.

If you look at photos of completed cars on line you will see some have it painted the same color as the fenders. Is that correct? Don't know.