Wayne R
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Posts posted by Wayne R
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Adam--i would not recommend throwing it in washing machine, most expert auto detailers these days use a dry spray on
foam style cleaner for material, left on for about 5 - 10 minutes then vacuum away, ----get advise from a good detailer
where you live. regards.
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10 hours ago, EmTee said:
The spring should be installed to fit into the pocket as described in the shop manual. If ride height is an issue, that is typically fixed with new springs. In special cases, where there is a discrepancy in height between left and right, shims designed for that purpose are available to address that.
Thank you Emtee will check it out and take closer look before i fit ball joints when they arrive.
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Was replacing front lower ball joints, and noticed the lower coil spring not in the correct recess by about-
1 inch on drivers side bottom, ,see photos, i realize its easy to put right but thought previous owner in US may have done this to increase
car height a little----, i will know if passenger side is like this when i do that side, but can not see that side yet as i only have a single car garage, no room, and waiting for ball joints to arrive from Rock Auto, incidentally they are great prompt delivery and good products.---Experts give me your opinion would you position coil spring in recess now while doing this job. and also my drivers side ball joint has about 1/16 inch play in it.--64 Electra Convertible.
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Luke, one of the best methods checking this is to get a two small pieces of 1x1 lumber about six inches long,
place one piece under the side that closes correctly in the gutter about 6 inches from hood closing edge,
then go around and push down carefully on other side and see if it goes all the way down now on side or if it is sticking up
further, if it is sticking up further yes hood probably has a permanent buckle or bent, but if it goes all the way down, one strut
will be the problem and have to be replaced.
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9 hours ago, LIMITEDMAN said:
Thanks Wayne. Please check and do let me know. Great for you to reach out to me. Where in Australia do you live? Again Thanks,Alan
No problem Allan-- for memory these were from Park avenue had them 20years
and probably not same , and Barney will help you. regards
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If you still require one i have 2 complete antenna from Buicks about your year
i will take a look in about 2 hours with part numbers, if interested,--i know that they are in excellent,
working condition,----problem probably would be shipping cost. regards Wayne R
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Yes Barney, i should have been a bit clearer here sorry, the 5/8inch socket nut ,holds the 7/32 allen bolt in its place,
so its important to mark that allen bolt with a bit of paint or something so you know its original position.
loosen the 5/8 nut----then turn the allen key clockwise about 1/8 at a time until the slop has been taken up at the steering wheel.
see my photo ,my allen bolt was at approx11.00oclock, and i turned it to approx 2.00oclock, to get rid of my slack.
i have a set of 12 inch allen keys--makes it easy to do.
i could turn my steering wheel about 1 .1/2 --play before i did mine.
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My Electra convertible has since i purchased i has always had a little to much free play in the steering,
after checking all center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, etc, i found the play was actually in the box,
and the PO had never touched it for years because of all the grime , dirt around the box, and car has done 130.000miles so i adjusted the box,
about by 1/4 of a turn only ,---be careful here when adjusting ,only do gradually about 1/8th of a turn at a time,
because if done to much , can put wear on the inner box gears.
require only 7/32 allen key ,long one is better, 5/8 socket with a 12 inch extension, mark its original position,
then adjust as required.----easy job.
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Hello, if you still have your original and you want to still keep it, Cars inc, New jeysey, for memory
can supply you a rebuild kit for your original--easy to fit, as far as your bracket some one here may help you,
of try a few wreakers.
If you dont half a fuel pump----same thing by a new one--- it wont affect your classic im sure.
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3 minutes ago, kblawrence67 said:
Wayne,
Thank you very much for taking the time to discover this information and sharing it with the community!
For me, this is incredibly useful.
re: horns not as loud… I read through my service manual for the 68’. In it, it describes making an adjustment to the horn, based on voltage readings across the horn, to make it louder or softer. Take a look at your service manual to see if it says something similar.
Ken
ROA#16567
Yes Ken i have did that myself but even after doing that ---still not as loud---,i guess it makes sense after all
the 4 note from eigties are another 20 years of advancement in enginering.
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Hello all, just checked out the horns, and yes are the same,
A is the same as H---and F is the same as L, but for some reason,
the high and low horns from 1964 are not as loud as the later ACDF from eighties.
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2 minutes ago, EmTee said:
Thank you Emtee,---My wife was a piano music teacher in New Zealand for about 20 years
i will just her to take a listen.
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I will be able to tell you in about 12 hours ,as its late pm here, and you may remember about a week ago on
the forum about here 22 may , i showed a set of ACDF i fitted to my 64 Electra convertible,
well i removed the 4 ,OE, horns ---H, L, and small and large trumpet from the Electra.
Will test in morning and report back.
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3 hours ago, Wayne R said:
Most european cars they are attached to the sending unit, probably because they are kept clean, and dry.
In fact with seventies Alfa Romeo, the both positive, negative, ground , wires ran inside at the back of the trunk
under carpet, and they had a connection there.----And that is an Alfa s owner best way to protect his car, as it only took
a minute to disconnect that in the trunk.---i accidently did this to mine years ago , and forgot to reconnect and you get about 50 yards then car stops.----Sorry i have to put this right all to sending unit correct, but the wires also went to fuel injection pump, that is the connection i was talking about where it can shut off. All early Alfas had a fuel injection pump called Spica fitted to USA only.
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Most european cars they are attached to the sending unit, probably because they are kept clean, and dry.
In fact with seventies Alfa Romeo, the both positive, negative, ground , wires ran inside at the back of the trunk
under carpet, and they had a connection there.----And that is an Alfa s owner best way to protect his car, as it only took
a minute to disconnect that in the trunk.---i accidently did this to mine years ago , and forgot to reconnect and you get about 50 yards then car stops.
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Thanks gungeey,--no it had a gasket , it just peeled off very easy,
i think the real problem was that the clearance from back of impeller to housing was
about 3/16 inch and was probably touching the inside back from when PO fitted it and did not realize it.
Also looks like the impeller where it was mounted on shaft from new had never moved ,--just a bad
Water pump from new or rebuilt.
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New pump arrived today, and as Robin says above about minimal clearance, just look at the differents
from old to new pump, the old pump was on car when i received it about 3 years ago from US.
thank you.
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11 minutes ago, Bloo said:
If the bearing is good it probably wasn't assembled right in the first place. Is there room to push the impeller on another .015" or so?
Yes Bloo if i have trouble getting one here----may try that thanks.
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18 minutes ago, JFranklin said:
It looks like it was taking care of its own problem. I think I would have employed a file and slapped it back on if all else was ok. Was the shaft running true? I only see damage on 2 blades.
Yes correct and no movement in bearing and smooth, but i did notice see impeller is mounted out on its shaft from new,
and on inside has about nearly 3/16 inch clearance from housing,---best offer counts -- still has both plastic and cast for sale
i will get a new one here in ausy tomorrow American Auto parts.
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Was fitting new fan belts , checking painting fan blade, so while doing this i removed front pully,
turned the water pump spindle with my hand, and O it was scraping inside ,so i new then i had a problem with water pump, after removing it you will see photos,---strange thing is bearing still fine , no movement in it, was never noisy when using car, so new water pump to order tomorrow.---see fine scratches on about 3 of the cast iron impeller blades.---64 Electra convertible 401.
So i went on line and discovered this---go to best offer counts---ebay---no ---232918479791---and read the specs on these water pumps, looks like doing away with cast iron impellers because of what has just happened to me.
This may help others here----my reason for showing thanks.
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Found this about hour ago on google , dont know them, have no association with them,i did notice were
copper brass,--good-- so i can not recommend this---have to do your own home work----regards
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Make sure it is not out of stuffed, get a good second opinion from a reputable radiator shop that knows.
In a lot of cases your original can be repaired and its better in the long term.
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46 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Hi Les, might be worth posting a photo of your spring.
If it is Holden bodied Buick, the latch may be similar/same as used on the same year Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Pontiac and Cadillac and perhaps Vauxhall. And perhaps earlier or later years. You may want to contact the Buick Clubs in NSW, QLD and Victoria for help.
BTW if the spring is required to correct a sagging door handle, the factory fix was to put the square shank in a vice and twist it against the droop so it would sit horizontally. What I needed to do on a ‘40 Pontiac and it worked.
Just my two bobs worth
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
Correct rodney i did just that years ago on my 39.
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8 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Wayne, Here’s a picture of my other set of four note clam shells. As you can see, they have only one terminal for one wire. The reason that I cut the wires on the first set, but not the second, was that I knew that I could not find simple spade connectors for the two terminal horns. The horns in this second picture are metal. Another thing I just remembered was that the one set of horns with the two wires was taken from a car with plastic inner fenders. They wouldn’t be able to ground through the horn body even if they were metal.
Thanks Ed i understand now. regards.
1953 SKYLARK PAINTED NUMBERS ON FRAME QUESTIONS
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Fritz,-- just incase-- the first picture of your 54 Riviera engine ,i notice that the top drivers side power steer bolt
is not tight to bracket.
Would also like thank you for the tremendous, effort , and expense you have put into all the fabulous Buicks you and your team
have restored .
Its persons like you that keep this wonderful Buick marque survive into the future.