Wayne R
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Posts posted by Wayne R
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13 hours ago, RivNut said:
I was referring to the vinyl top that extends across the trunk.
Sorry Ed got it.
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Ed , about sun roofs,---if you mean you have not ever seen one,--yes there was quite a few fitted to
boat tails,--infact i remember a man in New Zealand , shipped a 72 from US had a sunroof that he said
was sold from new, and for memory there was quite alot fitted to 1972 Boat tails. and i think 1973 as well.
probably were not factory fitted , but arranged by another sun roof supplyer.
The example in New Zealand was all green,--sorry i dont have a photo----no digital camera those days.
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On 2/6/2024 at 12:16 AM, buickbrothers said:
Thanks all. Shoes, drums and tires are reinstalled, and I've expanded shoes. I did front wheels first and expanded shoes until you can "just turn the wheel by hand" per the book. How firm or how much drag should this be to "just turn by hand"? The book indicates the drag should be equal at all wheels. However, as you read on, and get to the rear wheels, it's having you back off the adjusting screw so rear wheels are "free of drag". So, how can you have equal "drag" at all wheels and just turn the tire by hand and no drag on the rear wheels? What is the correct approach here?
I've shifting to working on the parking brake cable adjustment while I wait for feedback from the forum experts on the shoe adjustments. I can't seem to get this dialed in to eliminate the cable slack and get the parking brake operational again. I've run out of adjustment thread. I had it working before. However, I ended up pulling the whole axel and torque tube out as a unit in order to fix a leak in the tail of the transmission and replace the seal on the torque tube. Unless the cable between the rear tires grew in length, I'm not identifying why and where else to make adjustments for slack. any thoughts are helpful. Thanks.
I think i can see a problem here ,---your adjusting nut is mounted wrong,---should be turned end for end.
am i correct.--from picture just under Frank Duval. forum above.
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Lewis try J and J auto wreakers---Ohio 100% feed back
have 97 Riviera parts there for last month, very good and reliable ,
i have purchased from them in the past.-----go to this forum junk yards march 19 2023. ph number.
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Winter storage, i have never used oil in cylinders, but would be ok like others have done over the years,
but only use a small amount.
And i know this subject has been talk here for years, but i want to mention a thing i did for years while i lived in California, 10 years.
i had to store about ten cars back in New Zealand where i was born---Invercargill it is the most southern city in NZ, and coldest and wettest.
IF your your car is on a concrete garage floor , a real good thing to do is place ordinary cardboard under your classic, cardboard has a air cavity
between the layers and is a very good conductor and restricting the cold from coming up.
If your concrete is damp and from new never had a damp proof when made ,just lay some black polyurethane down first under cardboard,
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Pertronix is ok as long as you use there latest version, for memory think its pertronix 11,, years ago
they started with pertronix 1, and the problem they had, if you ever worked on your ignition with key on for longer than 4---5 minutes
it would burn the pertronix out.
Now if you decide to use points buy a reputable good quality points and condensor set , dont but cheap sets.
i used pertronix in about 3 of my Buicks while CA 30 years ago, and i was let down ones on my 65 Riv, messing around
with my ignition to long, if you go with pertronix, keep points in your trunk.
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Ed , set you a PM incase it helps.----regards.
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Just want to back up , re Tom t, recommends Bosch spark plugs, reason why i know is ,
i owned five Porsche 911 , models 1969 to 1984 mostly when i lived in California years , and all
i used Bosch spark plugs,---any Porsche owner will say the same.
But i have just stuck with A/C in my Buicks,.
Pelican Parts in CA are a good source for Bosch plugs, but probably not cheap these days.
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How right Morgan and Peter you are, hope you dont mind me coming in here Morgan,
as i wont to follow up on with your subject about how great American cars are.
I was born in in New Zealand, so i know this story very well, a New Zealand family named the Nairn brothers,
went to Baghdad to start an incredible transport delivery operation between Baghdad and Damascus in the early twenties.
After trying many makes and model vehicles from Europe and around the world, they settled with Buicks and Cadillacs,
because they were the only forms of transport that could handle the desert conditions,--the rest is history,and many books were written of this great feat.---books---The road to Baghdad----The Nairn way.---desert bus to Baghdad---.
Photos from seventy years of Buick 1973.
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This help you a little better,--but as as Ed said all original radiator and coolant items in your ,car
have to good --no leaks etc to work properly. Would also like to let you ,but you probably know, when you first start and run your Buick after completion turn your heater on, in the hot position so it will let the water flow into your heater core and hoses,this remove any air bubles ,air locks in the system.
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44 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
I thought the Invictas only had 401s. Since the Electra section says the engines were the same as the Invictas, the answer may be in what the Invicta section indicates.
John go to ,how rare is the 375 Wildcat, january 2010, here on our forum----you wrote in it as well. thank you.
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Actually for memory i had a temperature gauge on my 65 , between ignition and steering ,
mounted under dash, thought i also had a oil pressure gauge but must have remove that, before i sold it.
and as Ed says, most new cars have tachometers, but my the latest Lexus NX 350 hybrid to view the tachometer
you have change adaptive cruise control ,and some other item on dash to enable to see your revs .
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On 1/24/2024 at 6:18 AM, dr914 said:
no need for a tach on an automatic anyway!!!!
The tach in my 64 is the pressure in my right foot.
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This was bound to happen with one of our beloved Buicks---sooner or later,
and now it has with our wonderful, terrific, great, 65 Riviera GS,----blame Bill Mitchell---.
But wait dont blame Bill,------thank him.----.
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On 1/8/2024 at 11:44 PM, EmTee said:
Many thanks --Em tee for moving that to Riviera,---i thought i would not be able to show there becanse its a 64 Electra.
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On 1/9/2024 at 10:02 AM, RivNut said:
Nice. What did you do to the rear compressor bracket for valve cover clearance?
Sorry Ed---its all in post year.
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On 1/9/2024 at 12:43 AM, 1965rivgs said:
`66 valve covers
TM
Yes TM i mentioned that in my original info---thanks.
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Hello--Ed,--Jim--Bill, i was messing around on computer came across this outlet with filters,
probably a waste of time,--they are called , FMS Filters zip is 42092, they still show they have wix--42092 filters,
$17.29, i actually went and nearly completed a purchase, right through until you make parment,---thats were i stopped ,
because i dont require any ---i dont own a 63,---so just doing this in case its for real , regards.
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Thought this may also help Riviera owners.--Wayne.
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Yes thank you John, as you can see my car is not a show example, but yes that would be a good idea,
for others wanting a more professional look.
the area of the bracket that touches the valve cover, before cutting is the rounded angled corner, raping all the way round.
as you can see i did mine in a vice ,hack saw and drill, by hand.---.i should have mentioned also that you dont have to remove the compressor as it is held at the front bracket by 2 bolts, just had to loosen those bolts a little, before loosening the 2 bolts for the alternator releasing the tension of the fan belts at front.
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Power Booster Boot
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by Wayne R (see edit history)
another one--but i have never purchased from them.---ok item no ----264968430155---.