Wayne R
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Posts posted by Wayne R
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Thought i would follow on with this Heat Riser , that Ed asked a few weeks ago, in the last few days i suspected
my current riser was not correct or partly blocked , so like with other Buicks i have previously owned, checked this one ,
and removed it ,.
Living in Australia did not really require it because of temps warm temps here.
A very easy job to do, when you remove the 2 bolt nuts and lower the holding bracket, the housing holding the flap
and spring just drops down as a complete unit, you then just cut the flap axle with a hacksaw blade on the inside, place a blade threw
the housing and cut at axle ends, then the whole axle and flap fall out ,then all that is required is to have the 2 holes, welded,--then remount
and slide back on, and bolt up.-.--Note my flap was jambed at about 60-70 degress angle not good.---a few photos./
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Thanks NTX5467, no every thing else stock , St 400 tranny, limited, slip diff, all power windows and vents,
cruise , power seats,air con, 4 note horns,--Carter carb,--regards.
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Thank you NTX5467 for taking the time explaining your knowledge about what i was asking,
especially where you mentioned the casting numbers dates on the block and cylinder heads
and other items, etc,.
Like you stated it is a nice car , and drives well,---and i am really happy with it,, but will in the next few days
record those numbers in case it provides more information about the car.
The other strange thing about it , when i bought this car it was sold by a dealer in Coeur d Alene Idaho,
on behalf of the daughters Dad that past away about a year earlyer, and the dealer stated that it was 425 ci engine,
when i asked for all the photos of block numbers i told him it was only a 401,---and it still has a 425ci air cleaner decal
on the air cleaner,. which proves nothing,.
And about i month ago i decided to check the timing, ignition, as there was always a little light stumbling at idle,
dwell was at 34, and the timing was set at 10-11 advance, so when i set those to where they should be car is now perfect
runs so quite and very smooth .----So perhaps the Dad that owned the car thought it really was a 425ci. or workshop that serviced it did.
i never received previous receipts, paper work with car or service records with car,---shows 136000 miles on speedo, .
Many thanks.
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Brandon PM sent you a few photos from service manual, hope it helps.
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No problem---take a break and have a relaxed happy new year.
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6 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Did you check for spark at the plugs or coil wire into the distributor? Results?
I dont think it is likely in this case because you had the motor running, but very often after a car is idle for an extended period of time the points will oxidize over and result in no spark.....or the points could be burned. Drag a piece of crocus cloth or an all metal fingernail file between the points to clean them up. It only takes a couple of minutes and costs nothing.
Did you check basics like voltage to the "+" side of the coil before testing the coil itself?
Just some thoughts....start with basics, confirm and then move on to specifics/specific components.
Tom
Branden--as Tom has said is all good--distributor is where you should have started first, look very carefully at your above photos re points
they look very greasy black the points side facing us, try what Tom said, even though you have new points coming, i use wet and dry paper
about approx 200 weight, fold a small piece 2 inches long by 1/4 inch,so it is dougle sidded spray it with a little brake clean,--and then slide it back and forth a few times ,then clean and dry by holding points open for 5 minutes to let dry.---Then see if it starts. You will get it going good luck.
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Hello sent you a PM may help.
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edinmass go to ebay item number---203244864774 Chinese they sell alot.
Or go to ebay item number---201434600961 in Chicago usa.
These are all used for BMW- Nissan, and Mini--all thin wall.
May help.
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When you remove your plugs, they will tell you all you want to know ,with your compression,
keep them in order as you remove them ,number them in order ,and keep them, and study them carefully , deposits on them ,there colour,
the colour of the electrode, .
I would set plug gap at 30--32 no bigger. regards.
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Brandon, , congratulations on your wonderful 65, you will be really happy with it when you get all the little items repaired, and running fine.
Sorry im a bit late in maybe helping, but will start with , i realize you have done your dwell, timing ,etc, but i may be wrong did you fit new points and condenser ,reason is even with bad - burnt-- points and dwell set at thirty--can still get hesitation at low revs from an engine. good points are critical for good operation, also when you purchase new plugs and wires , most use black 7mm wires original , and i can understand that , but there are far better wires these days , example you can buy 7.5mm electronic power seal insulated jacket type, that are far superior, and these dont track across each other, like some original black wires,--you can test this on your wires by starting your car at night-, you will see the sparks at the wires .I notice on your wires they are zip tied in a few places together, get rid of those, Buick always used wire retainers like i think you have one to separate wires. make sure you obtain correct heat range plugs ,, and purchase quality points example,-Bosch,--Some Delco,--Echlin etc, dont buy vented points,, they have a small hole where the points meet, and can fail after about 500 to 1000 miles.
Talking re points again , when set at thirty with dwell meter, checking with feeler gauge after can be only about 10 or 12 thou,,or 19-20 thou because points may be like a mountain have highs and lows, and the dwell meter does not allow for that. If you go with pertronix or similiar do it later ,just get you car running great first, but when you do , warning there is 3 grades or pertronix,,1--11--111 the later 11 and 111 are best dont buy pertronix 1, like others have said they fail if you leave ignition on for more than 4-5 minutes, i fitted my first pertronix 1 in 1991, and many more pertronix 11 later on
until about 4 years still on point with my present 1964 Buick Electra convertible, my eleventh Buick.
When you change wires , clean the inside of center coil wire connection inside they can corrode green. and the inside or replace your distributor cap
and rotor.---regards.
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Hello Nick----will send you a PM, problem is i live in Gold Coast Queensland
A bit far away.
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I will tell you something,, Willies 1969, well worn Martin N20 guitar named Trigger is worth more
than all our Buicks put together.
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1 hour ago, 37_Roadmaster_C said:
Hi Wayne,
I am not 100% sure, but I think by 64 the engine number and the VIN match. If this is true then the engine number 6Cxxxxxxx might be specific enough for someone to tell you what model car it came out of. Unfortunately, I am not that someone. Sorry.
The actual question you may be asking is what model car would the VIN: 6C124577 belong to? This is all a guess. Others will know.
Correct ---Robin---thank you.
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Yes thank you Robin,, yes it is the number on right ,it seems to be a strange number,
but was wondering what the sequential numbers ,or what model Buick this engine came from.
My original vin number is 8k1052006 IT is ok and correct.
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RivNut---Ed, would you mind identifying my 64 Electra convertible engine,
you may remember i purchased it from US about a year ago ,and showed photos of it
here on post war about then photos page 12,, headline---64 Dual Quad Electra production numbers.---.
You may remember it has lots of factory extras, but car does not have its original engine, and i purchased it from the POs daughter,, as her Dad past away . earlier.
The cars is great , runs like a clock and im really happy with it,---but was never able to find out about the engine.
Here are the numbers on the front of engine,, and i realize its a 1966 401, but would like to find out by its numbers on right side front-----MT539 on left side---6C124577 on right side, sorry about photos hard to see.
Many thanks if you or others can help.
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Emtee---you will be correct---after new hoses are fitted it is not unusual after about a month for some
to require tightening up again.--it happened to myself just a couple of months ago ,on my 64,
after i replaced all heater hoses.
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Do this , as Tom said small taps on horns ok, but then refit horns , then only connect one horn wire at a time,
you will see a small adjustment screw--bolt-- see my photo-- turn that in with pliers about half a turn clockwise first,
then try that horn to see if it goes or louder ,--if no , go another half turn then try again---,if it does not work --do the opposite,
adjust back to wear it was originally, then turn anti clock wise , doing this you will probably get then to work.
Then do the same with the other horn.
Its worked for me many times----just got one of my factory large trumpet horns working on my 64 Electra.
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Nick57---this is what i would do buy a can of brake clean, and fully clean all around all sides,
turn your steering around untill all sides are thoroughly cl;ean---then check to see and make ure there is know
play or wear there,---i think you will find it is still in good --ok--condition--if so leave it--will only create more problems
repairing it.
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2 hours ago, Pat Curran said:
Thanks Eric!
Thanks you both for explaining that,----sorry for being so dumb, and i agree with Ed here re numbers,
not like example like Chevrolet ,---there numbers were lower ,and usually more prominent in orange.
and corvettes chassis number was not that easy to sight , drivers side just behind rear wheel on top and next to chassis bolt.
ask me how i know because i have owned 3 early corvettes as well.
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Pat--you will have to explain to me i caught understand your statement ,that 454 non GS Rivieras were built in 1965,
with super wildcat engine,---i have owned 11 Buicks all years--and i know Buick never built a 454,in 1965
sorry i can not reply to you as i am leaving now for a 7 hour trip away---regards.--Wayne.
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Thank you Jason for listing this for me, as i thought it would be of interest to most Riviera owners.
I will start by saying that although most think that 65 GS are selling for more than you are used to,---think again---
you know how great and terrific these great classics are like, perhaps they are about 10 years late in there price increases,
look at other makes and models, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, Cadillacs, and others, have been above Buick in most cases for years
depending on models ---,and i know that a 65 Riviera takes a lot to beat for all aspects of driving.
I notice that Schmitt statement says from a prominent southern CA collection, and actual 38000mile example,
would say that it probably is a genuine GS example, because they have a very good reputation ,and would not take a risk in
making those statements.
The first item i always look at first to do with restorations is exterior ,and the 35 th photo from the top shows a close up of
a wheel with the incorrect black shiny inner painting, then it just goes on and on from there, including the engine bay,
Well a very nice car -----and which the next owner wonderful motoring.- from Buick.
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Would a moderator or other more experience member mind pasting this 38000 miles,$100.000
example on to our forum here,---i dont know how to .many thanks to member for doing this,
Reason is , although a very nice example,---lots of small items in correctly restored or not correct.
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Hello Ocotillo Bandit, when tight ening your oil filter, do as tight as you can by hand then use a oil pump pliers or similiar tool
and turn approx 1/2 a turn more with pliers.---30 weight is fine but should be using a multi grade oil weight example 10-30 or 15-30
this hells lube your engine from cold start.
Also most--- CRITICAL--- is before you store your car-----change the engine oil before storing it away for winter.
after changing oil, run it until gets to normal running temp, then store it away for winter.
This also helps your engine when re starting it after the winter next year, .
Storing an engine with old engine oil in car is very bad for the inside of engine because of axcidic build up in cylinder walls
and bearings.
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I went for drive around my local city---and decided to park in front of the most expensive hotel here,
to get a photo opp of my 64 Electra----with the Hotel Rolls Royce in the back ground,
they were probably not that happy , so i did not hang around there very long.
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Heat riser modifictions
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Thats great Ed,, strange though this car never had a gasket at the manifold top end, and my other Rivieras never did
years back, so i left mine left metal to metal, terrific job with yours though.- Ed,--Thank you.