Hans1
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Posts posted by Hans1
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From my library, little info is available except that the celluloid diffused light to see fluid level in window ( Hole ) at night.
I think you could use a piece of visqueen, the stuff used for house wrap.
Some of my multi meters have very good condition celluloid where they were covered by the shields.
I just turn them over.
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please show a better photo for inner tank, bottom outlet.
Mine has a pot metal elbow with a bakelite flapper , the flapper is at about 20 degree angle.
The flapper needs to seal the bottom of the inner tank from the outer tank, to keep vacuum internal until inner float actuates upper valves.
I had to use airplane dope ( it is gas proof ) to seal the pot metal elbow and to protect the sealing surface for the bakelite flapper.
Your float is repairable, use rosin solder for electrical work. do not use acid core solder as it is corrosive.
Be patient, could make hole in bottom to insert small tool ( nail ) to push dented sides back int shape.
Then solder hole.
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You can take glass retainers off, then look between the two shield faces, there is likely some translucent celuloide there.
It likely has a hole in it just the size of the hole in shields. T
The celluloid is supposed to cover the hole so when driving at night oncoming headlights would illuminate the celluloid and enable driver to see if red color was up to that area , indicating coolant getting to hot.
This will make your Motor Meter more authentic.
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While at Cadillac in QC, went to Fiero Plant in Pontiac, sealing issues.
Very interesting " Mill and Drill" operation.
As I recall, Body panels were fitted to the "space frame" via epoxy pads that were faced on a very large multi tool machine that faced the entire cars space frame.There was spot welder who could shoot sparks all the way to the aisle way, he got me once, lots of holes in back of my clothing.
But he never got me again.
I noticed his ability to spot newbys that did not know his talent in targeting them.
People I took there were cautioned to let "him" know they were looking at him as they passed.
An interesting time.
We even had some guys at Cadillac, working on their own, trying to engineer the installation of a V8 with rear wheel drive in the Fiero.
Wanted to modify and drive a hotter car.
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Hollander Manual, 1937, lists following: Rear ends interchangeable
ratios, 45, 47, 51-10 33-8
Anderson '20-23 over 3000
Auburn '20-22 6-51H
Davis '19-21 51, 61, 67
Elcar '20-26 8-80, 81
6D, H, K
Page '21 6-43, 44
R & V Kn '20-22 4 cyl
Hope this helps in your search.
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look like 1929 Hudson or Essex
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reference factory photos and try to match, at least you can say it's close to original.
I know old photos of factory production are not in color, but you can review factory brochures which may give a good hint as to coloration.
I do not have info on Chrysler products, but for cars I do collect I have a lot of relative information from photos and brochures.
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Thank you for your info to help another, I did not know of the Bell and messages, so just found message to me.
Thank you.
Hans
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one picture shows inner view, might be front wheel.
are they both front wheels?
could the other have a keyway, for a rear wheel?
where are they located?
Thank You
Hans
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We had a 1954 Century, emerald green body and white top, when in high school.........so thats my favorite.
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Browne Auto Salvage in Sunset Texas has several 1954 Hudson Hornet 4 doors in their Yard. https://www.facebook.com/Browneautosalvage/
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The picture is of an Essex six-cylinder engine. No modifications.
Based on han brake on right side of trans, it is likely 1924 to 1926. 1927 had the emergency brake inside body on left side of cowl attached to frame rail through the floor.
The large black box on top of engine is a hot air stove over exhaust system and provides tempered air to carb.
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I have enjoyed the input from everyone on their efforts, there are many good ideas expressed. I keep looking for ideas on placement of equipment, I am now planning to have some of my small woodworking on upper floor of garage, an idea I got in this thread.
Thanks to you all.
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Now just my Ideas to be helpful on barn garage design. Go with 6" floor with re rod in area for hoist, rest can be 4" if you want. If floor plan is not limited by code go 40' by 64' that way posts come out even distances.
Two post hoist is more useful for me. I can remove wheels. brakes, axles, exhaust and Trans etc.
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I continue to improve my buildings as I go.
My work building is stick built on 3 rows of block and is 30' by 40' . Main floor is 12' + high. Gambrel roof, upstairs room is 17' by 40' with 8' ceiling. Main floor is dry walled and insulated with Cellulose insulation (side walls and ceiling). 6" floor with fiberglass embedded and re-rod. 200 amp electrical with outlets every 9'. 12' by 12' door and service door on south end facing my home. stair way is dog leg at rear corner of garage with 5' wide treads, lots of room to move stuff up and down. My current action is to add windows at each end of upper room for summer ventilation and light.
Two post 10,000 lb hoist, no worries about floor cracking. Hoist is inset to rear of main floor along side wall. I can store car on hoist and under it too. I can park a car between hoist and door or can work in front of hoist area if I choose. Angled hoist a little to have a cleaner shot to and from hoist thru door. Room for two cars alongside hoist area toward door if needed.
Just replaced old fluorescent lights with LED's from Costco, much brighter.
My storage pole barn is 40' by 64' by 12' high, with HD trusses to have an upper room 64' by 18' , but no floor needed yet.
Two 12' by 12' doors on one end and one 12' by 12' door in center of south long side with a service door. I can see all doors from my house..
Lucite panels 2' by 64' just under overhang on south side for light, (even moonlight is often good enough to get thru without turning on lights)
When I had this one built I added 8 mil plastic sheeting under all concrete, No moisture issues thru floor, none in garage building either. This building will have my dirty work stored and operated outside, (sandblasting cabinet and polishing equipment )
I really enjoy having everything all on my property. In the past I had to travel to get parts in rented places and to bring stuff home to work.
Retirement is great!
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Not a Terraplane, Essex or Hudson
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Look like Pontiac to me, around 1929.
But I'm not a expert on it
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I in the old days, we took a long neck bottle, filled with water, removed air cleaner and operated throttle by hand at moderate speed , just poured water into carb (down draft ) and if engine started to stall completely stopped water and revved engine, then started with water again.
With an up draft carb we used my mom's clothes sprinkler ( a cork on a sprinkler head stuck into a bottle of water, she used it to sprinkle clothes when was ironing ) as motor struggled to run we had to race the engine a lot to keep it going.
I never knew how full of carbon the muffler was. only once did we just shoot the soot out an exhaust pipe.
It's fun remembering things we have not done since last century.
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1959 Taunus, wagon. got it out of a junk yard in 1963 with 32,000 miles. excellent shape except for the sugar in the gas tank that cooked in the carb.
Cleaned carb installed new gas filters every two weeks for months and it cleaned it self up.
Even loaned it to friend at work, for three months, who's Ford convertible was being repaired after a roll over.
Ended up selling it to a Dutch farmer near Saugatuck Michigan when pin in cam drive gear on distributor broke.
It had about 45,000 on it then, and was a good little car for the money.
Never seen one since
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1930 Essex, Oval rear window, only year.
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They are definitely for a battery charger.
If you have Red caps, they are for the Negative batt terminal.
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Any AC G10 or AC G spark plugs.
thank you
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Wind Wing lower bracket.
The part shown rests on the door sill and there is a hole made inside the window side of door for the pin to be indexed into,
The spring portion with the cap would have had the lower wind wing glass holder.
The coiled spring is a tight fit into the lower glass holder ( missing)
Another smaller unit would be installed on the upper door window opening.
The wind wing glass could be moved to control air deflection.
A precursor to front vent windows.
This appears VERY similar to my 1932 Essex Terraplane item.
Note: My wind wing parts I had at Hershey are still packed, will not be home for another week, but I thing part number may be checked and them i may identify.
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1934 and 35 Hudson & Terraplane windshield actuator
Nice picture of 30 Essex too !
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On 9/16/2016 at 5:42 PM, Hans1 said:
Looking for leads of Car makes to look at to identify:
Four door sedan, no ID plate. Several unique features.
1. bottoms of doors are Round, bottom corners have about 6 inch radius.
2. doors do not close flush with body, they overlap all around.
Windows: are very unique.
3. Front door windows are taller than wide. BUT the top of the window slopes down from the B post to the A post. Front of window glass is 3 inches shorter than rear.
4. Second door glass has a square shape, about 1 1/2 foot tall and wide.
5. Rear window is very long, about 2 1/4 feet by 1 1/2 tall.
Body.
6. looks like very early Twenties styling.
7. front seat frame is not adjustable, is bolted at top of seat frame to B post.
8. Body is steel, with a raised belt line about 1/4 inch thick by 1 1/4 wide.
9. Roof, Top of body is very flat, appears as tho it had a flat roof.
10. Body, rear seat area is very roomy, but front seat is very cramped especially the front floor area.
11. Cowl has two flat ledges running forward on each side, My supposition> that the grill shell had a matching flat lips on it on each side.
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On 9/16/2016 at 5:42 PM, Hans1 said:I am wrestling with my computer skills, do not know how to attach sketch or photos, will have to learn.
I may be able to get back over there later this week.
On 9/16/2016 at 5:42 PM, Hans1 said: -
Looking for leads of Car makes to look at to identify:
Four door sedan, no ID plate. Several unique features.
1. bottoms of doors are Round, bottom corners have about 6 inch radius.
2. doors do not close flush with body, they overlap all around.
Windows: are very unique.
3. Front door windows are taller than wide. BUT the top of the window slopes down from the B post to the A post. Front of window glass is 3 inches shorter than rear.
4. Second door glass has a square shape, about 1 1/2 foot tall and wide.
5. Rear window is very long, about 2 1/4 feet by 1 1/2 tall.
Body.
6. looks like very early Twenties styling.
7. front seat frame is not adjustable, is bolted at top of seat frame to B post.
8. Body is steel, with a raised belt line about 1/4 inch thick by 1 1/4 wide.
9. Roof, Top of body is very flat, appears as tho it had a flat roof.
10. Body, rear seat area is very roomy, but front seat is very cramped especially the front floor area.
11. Cowl has two flat ledges running forward on each side, My supposition> that the grill shell had a matching flat lips on it on each side.
The Shape of Speed
in General Discussion
Posted
A couple of the cars remind me of some bubble gum cards I have, from the '50s
Thanks for showing, I'll think about finding them up in the Asylum. ( my room over the garage )