TexasJohn55
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Posts posted by TexasJohn55
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2 hours ago, MrEarl said:
Had a pair I bought at the PX in Camp Legeune while at Motor Transport School, thought they'd be cool to wear home on first leave. Got home nobody else was wearing such, felt like a fool.
Try as I might, I cannot picture MrEarl in bell bottoms!
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Man! What brand is that stuff?
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a what?
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1 hour ago, padgett said:
Vegas were originally designed cheap and may find that most still remaining either have been sleeved or have AC.
Problem was the high silicon aluminum block did not respond well to overheating and whether silicon particles were dislodged (think sand in the carb) or the aluminum distorted I am no longer certain. Just to overheat was bad and mostly cured with a 160F thermostat (no computer) and an AC radiator (bigger).
I will bet they got sugared instead of overheated. (That keeps your response relevant)
3 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:I thought this would be a good disscusion.
It was.
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17 hours ago, Locomobile said:
What's likely missing from the testing is the heat and constant agitation/flow of liquid over trapped granules in lines and filters which melts it by erosion.
Go get your gas can, pour some in a glass, stir it some "powdered sugar" and report back with results. Then heat it to a rolling boil, report back with results.
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1 hour ago, Locomobile said:
What are you attempting to write exactly?? I hope you aren't calling me a ''liar''?
If you don't believe, go get your gas can, pour out a glass full and stir in some sugar. After the test, come back and post your results.
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Never mind, like you said, it is late. 1 day late. I'm bored!
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Me thinks it is functional, just not like you think.
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15 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
Problem resolved. The sliding sleeve gear was not playing nice with a thrust washer between the input shaft and main shaft. Small series 3 speed is rebuilt.
This is funny! Why did we have this conversation anyway? I re-read the entire thread and realized you had answered my first question 3 hrs later with 2 videos, somehow I had completely missed that. Carry on! Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain!
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2 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:
I concur but the expansion of the input and main shaft would occur no matter if the shafts spun clockwise or counterclockwise. I ruled out the cut of the gears as the cause. I found a thrust bearing in front of the sleeve gear as the culprit.
Now I am the one that doesn't understand, but I don't need to. 😉
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Quote: "The transmission drive gear is supported by a ball bearing seated in front wall of transmission case. The ball bearing, which is shielded on rearward side, is pressed against a shoulder on main drive gear and held in place by an oil slinger, washer, and retainer (snap ring) . The outer race of the bearing is grooved for a snap ring which fits between transmission case and flywheel housing to hold bearing and main drive gear in place." From 55 shop manual, pg 4-14
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44 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:
The input and main shaft support the gears. The two shafts meet up by the front synchro.
Let me rephrase this: The cut of the gears is causing the end thrust of the assembly, something has to hold the assembly in the case. I will look in the manual. John
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What retains the assembly in the case?
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On 1/21/2021 at 12:46 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
You're good. Just take 5 with another beer, sitting in the shade with Elvis at your feet.
Ben
Ben, from the tilt on that last picture, he may have had one "too many" with Elvis. 😉
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PLEASE!! Do not put Dawn, Palmolive, Simple Green or Purple Power in your cooling system! It will take FOREVER to get the foam and suds out of the system. You must use a non-sudsing detergent. "Cascade" or similar dishwasher powder works very well. Remove the thermostat. Mix a cup of powder in a pail of hot water to dissolve and pour it in, top off and run 30 min or longer, driving or revved up. It will cut any oil in the system, even motor oil or trans fluid. Drain and flush at least twice until it runs clear.
As a diesel mechanic for 40 years, it is what we used to clean system after oil cooler failures.
(PS: " FOREVER " was an exaggeration.) 😉
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2 hours ago, Peter Gariepy said:
I'll do another hard reset. Oye.
I liked your previous avatar, it seemed to fit better.
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31 minutes ago, Peter Gariepy said:
You do realize the jajiji post was an obvious fake or sarcasm?
Car is obviously a Ford Mustang
Diesel? 5 doors? 7 seats?
$320,000 price
Yeah, we get that.
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2 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
Ed is all hooked up with his magazines. There is a joke i want to make here but I think I better not...I might have to ban myself.
Well! welcome to our world fellow human!
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BEFORE YOU BUY! Consider storage. You must have protected storage space out of the sun and weather. You will also need space to work on it. It will deteriorate and rot in the sun and weather, your perfect interior and paint will soon need attention. If you want to preserve it, keep it indoors.
I bought a classic with good paint and original interior. I did not have indoor storage space cleared for it. The Texas sun popped the paint off to the metal on top surfaces that 1st hot summer. Each summer was worse on the paint. It was an older repaint that was in decent driver condition. The stitching popped loose on the seat backs. The sun is a killer.
Here is a pic:
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WOW! Looks great! But I don't know about letting my dog in the front seat unless you keep his nails trimmed. That Rita knows her stuff, and cleaners too!
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35 minutes ago, Grimy said:
For well-depleted shocks: Once each shock is full, screw plug in loosely, then drive around the block slowly to let trapped air burp past the threads, then refill, drive around the block one more time, refill and secure the plugs.
No: According to the shop manual, fill to within 1/2"-23/32" below the fill opening. This is necessary to leave some air space for expansion of fluid when hot otherwise fluid may be forced out. You will have to fashion a dipstick to dip and measure.
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9 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:
As joe_padavano suggested above, my thought is to use an On-Off Switch which also lights up itself-
One fewer item to go wrong,
one fewer extra hole in your car
Exactly what I recently did on my '55. AutoZone Dorman red paddle @ $4.99 and inline fuse holder, BP-HMK-RP @ $4.29.
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12 hours ago, Sir Gonzo said:
@Pete Phillips Thanks, Pete, I'll check that out.
@TexasJohn55 I have a PDF of the shop manual for my Buick that I reference often. I've searched the manual multiple times for a detailed description of the accelerator switch, but I only find reference to it in regards to instructions on starting the car. Even the carburetor section doesn't mention it, but maybe with Pete's input I can make some progress.
In my 55 manual, it is in section 10 electrical and starting.
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The Car Which Shall Not Be Named III (1935 Lincoln K)
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Try rotating the engine a little one way or the other to see if chain tension changes to allow alignment.