keithb7
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Posts posted by keithb7
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You mentioned you had a Chilton manual? Do you have or have access to an original Chrysler manual? I have one for all of the ‘53 Chryslers and Imperials.
You mentioned owning your car for a long time. In that time have you adjusted the brakes? A major adjustment with some type of tool to assist with keeping the shoes concentric to the centre of the axle?
The clutch spring is not hard to remove. If you get down under the car and follow the clutch spring back to the anchored end you’ll see and adjustment nut. Back it off all the way. The spring goes loose and then is easily removed.
Below here is removal instructions from my 1953 Motors Manual.
Also a pic of the clutch spring. Anchor and adjustment is seen far left of pic.
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Proper placement of the extra magic washer that appears in most master cylinder rebuild kits today.
I learned all this the hard way...Lol. Works good now! That was not the case when I first assembled things incorrectly.
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There are two different sized bore master cylinders. See here that I ordered the wrong size kit, ate crow and ordered a second kit.
If you need a MC kit check your bore. I may have what you need, that is of no use to me. I am pretty sure the unused kit is still kicking around here somewhere.
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Old vintage Chrysler diagram. Notice washer mentioned above is absent.
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Important illustration showing flat rubber washer with hole in center. Far left of illustration here. Not seen in vintage Chrysler MC breakdown diagrams.
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Pic 1 floor board remove. Pic 2 parts pulled to address master cylinder.
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Darn google images. I will try and fix it up. Sorry. Keith
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Taking the floor pan out is good. It allows you to get good access and see everything better. Does your floor look like this? Seen here are pics of my '53, however I have the 6 cylinder engine. A Windsor Deluxe. I believe our cars are very close. I have had my master out and rebuilt it. I took some pics.
You will however need to work from under the car mainly, to remove the master cylinder.
Here is what I pulled apart to do that work that I wanted to.
This next pic is very important. The reason is, if you use the diagrams shown in your original '53 Chrysler manual, they missed drawing in 1 round seal that comes in your cylinder rebuild kit today. Far left end of this photo. The rubber washer with the hole in it, right next to the seat.
Next you can see this original Chrysler drawing, that same seal is absent here:
I'd have to go out and poke up under my car to help me recall all the parts, and the steps that I took to pull the MC. It wasn't that difficult and quite rewarding.
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We haven't heard an update, so we don'y know what has progressed here. If you need some help removing your NY'r master cylinder, start a new thread. We'll help you out. - Keith
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Pulled the tranny today. I was pleasantly surprised how easy that job was. Quick and easy. With the floor panels removed, amazing access is granted. I’ve never removed a tranny on a car this old. A real pleasure.
I had heard some powertrain noise that I needed to source. I was thinking it may be an input or output bearing on the tranny mainshaft. Turned out to be the clutch throw out bearing. It was done. Lucky me I have a good spare bearing. I’ll order up new seals and gaskets to seal everything up.
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So far I am happy with my progress. Mechanical reliability has seen good steady progress since June. The car was limping like a badly wounded dog back in June this year.
Video #4.
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Agree on the low idle. A well tuned, warmed up old Mopar flathead is a wonderfully smooth engine. After a winter hiatus, every spring it takes me a while to get used to it. I think I’ve stalled the engine when I pull up to a street light or stop sign.
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50 years from now......
”I arrived in on an old vintage car that my Dad owned. It’s turn of the century, pre-war era. Iraq war. Its a 2000 Prius. Its really cool because you don’t have to plug it in. Well you can, but its from the gas era. So you can run it on gas. If you can find any.”
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Interior work begins. I am very fortunate to have a wife who wants to contribute to the cars betterment.
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Glad you got it all sorted out. Please do post some pics. We’d like to see it.
Did you change your brake flex lines? Even after all brake work is done always pay attention to your brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Keep checking the level to look for any loss.
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Have you seen this:
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012B/cover.htm
I assume you have, as it indeed does state as a last resort to pull the tranny. What is your idle speed set at? If too high the torque could be transferring too much power to the tranny input shaft. When you attempt to put it in low range/reverse the gears are spinning and clashing?
I took one of these trannys apart to learn how it works. I put this video together. There is not many moving parts in there. Low gear selection is moving a ring to lock a gear to a shaft. Reverse is sliding a gear to change direction of output. There is not much to cause grinding, which is why I am thinking high idle. You mentioned when fully depressing clutch you may not be completely disengaging the power thru the tranny.
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Is your fluid drive matched up with an M6 semi auto transmission? The one with R, L, N, D on the shift column? You accelerate to a certain speed, lift your foot off the gas temporarily, then it auto shifts?
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You listen here boy. Its time you made a man of yourself. You done went and made a baby with my daughter. If you don’t sell this here Chevrolet to put a roof over her head and buy diapers, I’ll be payin you a visit at 2 am with a fryin pan. Ya hear me? D’yall understand what I’m sayin? You be best headin down to A&W real soon. They’s hirin’ and you need a job son. Git ta gittin now. Go on!
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Today I took the opportunity to fire up the car again and drive it. The seat is out, I’ve resorted to sitting on a milk crate. Snow has not arrived yet however is due any day. The car is becoming better every week and I am happy with my progress. Its running good.
A little video update from tonight:
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Starting to tackle some interior upholstery work. We’ll try 1 new door panel and see how it turns out. In the meantime the window cranking assembly and linkage will get cleaned up and lubed. Its stiff and dry now, however is functioning somewhat.
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Glove box latch would be great! Rod prop system for holding the split hood open, both sides. Small cover piece for hand crankshaft hole in grill. Some type of vaccum system for the window wipers. I am not sure what it is supposed to have. My system seems MIA. Thanks, Keith.
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Thanks @BearsFan315. Late 1920's seems about the right time they started showing up in mass produced cars. If so, they certainly had a long run in mass production. A few pump improvements here and there but it seems the basic principles of operation and design, stayed mostly the same.
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I heard or maybe read somewhere about the vintage vacuum fuel transfer system. From the tank to the carb. The invention was patented and supposedly fiercely protected. All car manufacturers were paying licensing fees to the company that owned the patent. Prices were steep. They had the market locked up pretty solid.
What happened next? Was it true someone had enough and said, “We need to come up with a new idea. Get the fuel pump prices down.” Then got to work designing an alternative?
When did the diaphragm mechanical fuel make its debut? Who invented it? What cars used it first? Seems to me it had a pretty good run. Into the late 70’s maybe? Eventually fuel injection caused its demise I believe. Thx.
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OK, I will keep posting. Seems there are a few folks interested in following along.
Last night was another small victory as the entire rear end lights up again! Light housings were refurbished will all new related hardware and wiring. Rust removed. A new rear frame harness. And whaddya know, everything works as new. I have no issues with the original 6V system and it will stay. I was digging through my spare parts trying to round up some 6V bulbs that worked. The right side lamp here has an incorrect bulb in it, you can see that it's dimmer than the left side. I'll be out shopping for bulbs today.
Thinking next I'll flash the engine back up after finishing up all the fuel system work. Fuel tank is back in. New fuel lines. Installed a spare used mechanical fuel pump again. Not sure how the pump will perform so we shall see. I'll put a gauge on it and test it. Deal with any issues and go for a test drive maybe. Might be be fun to go do some donuts in the snow. 😁 Next project I'll be pulling the tranny.
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1953 Chrysler master Cylinder help needed
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
A little more help here in this photo. This is how it all goes together. The master cylinder is held in place by 3 bolts, fastening its body to the car frame.