keithb7
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Posts posted by keithb7
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Original dealer tag as mentioned seen here.
Also a pic of how it looked when I found it.
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Towing it home. About 250 miles each way. Also a 1.5 hr ferry ride each way. Orignally sold in 1938 by Begg Motors on Vancouver Island BC. Begg was BC’s first auto dealer. The dealer tag is still mounted on the interior fire wall area. I may have taken it off Vancouver island for the first time. Long ownership on this one. Only 2 owners from 1938 to 2018.
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The floor.
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I purchased this 1938 car in May. Sedans are great value in the vintage car market. I like 4 doors. I like classy sedans. Pre-war is a bonus. I am a Mopar enthusiast. This car suits me fine.
I was unsure where to settle on a thread for the resurrection of this old car. The Plymoth section? This restoration section? Anyway, I‘ll let frequenters here also know what I’m up to. I could use some used parts. So if anyone has some please chirp in or send me a personal message.
I brought the car home in later May as mentioned. It ran, but certainly needs love. The interior is stock. The current engine in it is a 1954 Canadian built 228 CI. The original 200 CI engine came with the car too. I have yet to determine what I’ll do with the original engine. The car is a Canadian build. 3 speed manual tranny.
I’m poking away at the car having lots of fun. I am currently focusing on mechanical issues. I plan to make it driveable and reliable. Then decide how far to go on the interior and body. I’m not in a hurry. Just enjoying the hobby.
So far I’ve been cleaning up some horrendous wiring. I installed a rebuilt starter. New heavy 1/0 battery cables. Inspected and set brakes. I’m rebuilding the carb currently. I’ve installed new spark plugs, wires, cap, condensor, rotor, points and coil. An engine Compression test turned out well. Between 95-100 psi wet or dry across the deck.
I pulled the front seat to get good access to the wiring under the dash. The floor boards are in excellent condition. I am quite happy about that.
I removed the headlights and pulled the headlight harness. It was in a very poor state. I am building a new harness. Much more wiring work to come.
Current parts list wishes include:
Engine hood hold-open mechanisms. (Both sides, 2 pc split hood) Driver side aluminum foot area, door jam, panel trim. Engine Crank hole cover. Engine crank handle. Glove box pull open handle.
Thx. Keith
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A little update on my ‘38 Plymouth for those interested.
I’m taking my time with this car. I really enjoy working on it. I have no timeline or schedule. I just work away at it a few evenings a week, plus weekends. As time allows.
I pulled the starter to find the armature fried up pretty good. I aquired another similar starter and made 1 good one from the two. I pulled the battery cables and built my own 1/O size cables. The engine turns over very well now.
I located a carb kit on line and ordered it. While waiting for it to arrive the carb has been soaking in Laquer Thinner. It turns out the engine is a 1953/54 year 228 CI. It has a Carter BBS carb on it.
I was test driving the car before I pulled the carb. The 228 seems to provide nice torque for this light car! I look forward to driving it.
I installed new spark plugs, rotor, all plug and coil wires. New 6V coil, points and condensor. New fuel filter.
Pulled the headlights and the harness. The harness is original and in terrible condition. I am building a new harness now.
Upcoming next projects, while awaiting carb kit will include: set up breaks (they look new) clean up more electrical wiring. Its pretty messy. Thinking I’ll order a new set of brake line flex hoses.
Almost forgot! I have a new park brake cable due in any day. I’ll install it too as soon as it arrives.
Once the carb kit arrives, I hope it goes well. I might be enjoying some short trips around the neighborhood to warm things up. Then I’ll dump all the oils and refill with new.
If anyone has any spare parts around let me know. I could use a few little things. Thanks.
Keith
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Congratulations. By chance do you have any photos to share? I’d love to aee it.
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Yes! You are in the group. Please post some pics as soon as possible. Many of us are in waiting...
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Lol. Awful.
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The event was plastered all over Hemmings publications too. For some time. I made my plans last fall to attend the finish line event this morning.
Hemmings is already advertising the 2020 Great Race in their publications.
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Was a fun event at the LeMay Museum today.
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Cool thanks for posting.
I’ll be at the finish line on Sunday. Lemay Museum, Tacoma WA.
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Thanks @Rusty_OToole for that education session. I checked out Vintage Power Wagons on-line catalog. I like the options shown. When the time comes around for rebuild it looks like I have some good options. I'll get my head off the engine at some point and measure bore to confirm.
Assuming it is stock at 3 3/8" (I have already confirmed my bore is 4 1/4") and I bore it over 1/16" to 3 7/16", you're spot on, Power Wagons have several piston options for me. Quick math; with my 4 1/4" stroke x 3 7/16" bore, my new displacement would end up around 236.6 C.I.
My 228 C.I. engine is currently in a 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe sedan. The car originally had a 201 C.I. engine. It's a light little car with a 3 speed. The final 236 sized engine with the right fuel delivery and timing would give that little car some nice torque and HP gains I bet.
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Hi Peter welcome to the site. I have a 1953 Windsor. I’m in BC too. I have some spare parts. Do you have a pic of the widow handle you need? I think I have some spares. They are the collapsing type. Mine may be the same as your 48.
I bring stuff up from the USA fairly often. What area are you in? I have a work-around for expensive shipping an brokerage.
- Keith
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Hi folks. It turns out I have a Mopar D54-xxxxx SN engine here. 25” long block. Made in Canada. 4 ½” stroke. Have not had the head off yet but I’d wager its got a 3 ⅜” bore. Netting 228 ci. Likely came from a 1955 Dodge Royal or similar Canadian car.
Most replacement engine parts listings are for American built Mopar engines. I am having trouble locating engine parts lists for my 228.
Internet research tells me Chryco only offered the 25” block. They changed bore and stroke to accomodate power needs for each application. They got the same block down to a 201 ci, and as large as a 265 ci. I suspect distributor, cap, rotor, points, condenser, stuff may be the same accross the Canadian line up from around 52 to 55 in the 6 cylinder flat head offerings.
Can anyone help with confirming this or straightening me out on this? For example Bernbaum lists tons of parts for mass produced American Mopar engines. I don’t see parts listed for the Canadian 228 engine. Thanks.
Keith
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On 6/16/2019 at 9:06 PM, Joe in Canada said:
I bought a 12 T as the regular posters here are aware of seeing I found it on this forum. It was on Vancouver Island and I live in Ontario and the big expense was getting it off the Island. Had to pay $1500. for the transport ferry ride to the mainland. Cost me a total of$4,000. + tax to get it to the Oshawa On. yard where I picked it up. But It was still a good deal and I am not complaining.
I drove my 98 Ram ¾Ton truck to Vancouver Island a couple weeks ago to buy a ‘38 Plymouth. Its a big truck and I had a 20 ft flat deck trailer. I was about 43 feet long total. I drove on the ferry empty. Came back full. Cost me under $400 CAD. return. I had a passenger too included in that $400.
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Thanks @Tinindian. I will dig in and give it a try.
On the polarity: My 38 is positive ground. When the points open the primary voltage present at the points goes to ground. Would the wire hooked up to the point be the positive wire in this case?
Keith
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I was contemplating replacing the original coil in my ‘38. I dug in and was interested to learn how the large power cable off the key switch goes to the coil. It’s heavily shielded. A modern 6V coil won’t work like this it seems. A newer replacement coil has a positive and negative terminal. Original does not. As I believe negative comes right off battery to the ignition switch, then is the heavy shielded cable to the rear of the coil. Wondering what my options are to go about this properly. This is a new one for me. Thx.
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My 1953 Chrysler. Mahale oil pan gasket from Rock Auto. $12.
Labor free. Did it myself. Cleaned all sludge out if pan and painted it. Now running modern detergent oil. This example is the polar opposite of the Exotic Sport car scenario.
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Wow. Those are some serious compression gains.
Any concerns about the parts down the line? Piston rings? Piston, pins, con-rods, bearings and crank for example? Will these parts take these higher intensity blasts reliably?
Just curious on your thoughts here. Old iron is generally over engineered I suspect.
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Spectacular work! By chance did you take a compression test before and after? If so what were the results?
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The drum calipers shown above could be used to measure the inside drum diameter. That would tell you if the drums are still within spec. They are of little help in setting up the brakes properly.
Simply put, the trick is to set the curved shoes, equal distance at all points, to the very centre of the axle. This is 99% impossible to set accurately without some help from some sort of tool, or other creative idea. When the round brake shoes are set just right they make full contact with the drum. All points. This is so vital to proper brake operation. Think about the total contact area of all brakes shoes on the car. Its not much. These shoes have to stop these big heavy cars, full of passengars and luggage, on a down hill slope at a good speed. Every little bit of shoe area that is not contacting the drum properly has a big effect on reducing brake power.
The amco tool as shown above, is pretty well useless. Important required pieces are missing. Hen’s teeth was mentioned earlier with good reason. You can see why some of us are reverting to home built tools.
The master cylinder that is leaking brake fluid is also a concern. Yes, either reseal it or buy a new one. I resealed mine and re-used it. It works well but I see a little brake fluid trapped in the rod dust boot. So a little brake fluid is coming out where it should not. It’s not dripping or getting worse. Pretty sure I have worn cylinder walls. A new one is in my future some day. In the mean time I keep a very close eye on my brake system. I pull the floor cover and inspect the Master Cylinder fluid level monthly. I look for wheel leaks regularly too. Any opportunity to pull the drums and check the wheel cylinders, I’m in there. Probably 3-4 times each cruising season. (April to Oct).
You can’t be too careful when running the stock single cylinder master.
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You could get lucky and get the brake settings close without a tool. It can be done. You may spend lots of time trying also. Then still have limited results. Brakes are very important. It makes sense to take the right steps to do things right, with confidence. You’ll appreciate it when that 5,000 lb wagon is overtaken by gravity on a steep hill.
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Cold oil is thicker. Hot oil thinner. If oil pump or shift piston is starting to wear, it’ll be easier to build and hold pressure with cold oil. The tranny needs oil pressure to overcome spring pressure to shift.
When it does happen to up shift, does it easily down shift when slowing down?
Consider an oil pressure test. Instructions are readily available.
1938 Plymouth Sedan On The Horizon
in Plymouth
Posted
Found a great floor under the carpet!