Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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Fill them with grease and turn the top in during periodic maintenance. My 32 Dodge Brothers has one on the tube going to the throwout bearing.
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In the one step forward, two steps back category, I discovered a small problem with my pedal assembly yesterday. As I got ready to bleed the brakes in anticipation of driving Daphne around the block for the first time later this month, I noticed the brake pedal was a bit wobbly on its shaft. I seem to recall sometime in the distant past totally ignoring this when I first restored the unit. maybe it didn't seem so bad back then, but it's too bad to allow to go unchecked. So, off came the unit. The good news is that it's only held on by four bolts, and even with the body now on, I can access those bolts and slip the unit out after disconnecting the master cylinder plunger. Check out the rust that has developed. This will be a good chance to clean this up. It's amazing that to the naked eye there seems to be little rust showing, but when the camera flash hits it - rust city.
This assembly has more arms and gizmos on it than anything I've ever seen. It's all for the clutch mechanism, and I'm sure the engineers had a reason for it, but it's beyond my pay grade.
At any rate, disassembly went quickly. Now I just have to take the brake pedal and shaft down to the machine shop and get a new bushing installed. Luckily, the shaft is in good shape.
Lesson learned - do it right the first time.
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On 8/17/2020 at 10:27 PM, Torry Johnson said:
Taylormade,
I have a set of front seat rails if needed.
Torry
Thanks, Tory. I have a good set as we discussed in our emails. But thanks for the upper windshield hinge pieces that you sent me.
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Considering you’re paying for patterns to make an entirely new boat, I’m not too sure about the price - especially since the original motor is long gone. I find it strange that Dodge used Lycoming Motors when they had a dependable six of their own that they could use. Maybe it was too heavy for the boat.
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Is there a way to make the posts larger, the way they used to be - filling the page from left to right. The new look seems to feature small boxes crammed over to the left side of the page. Photos are tiny and the type is impossibly small. Is there a setting to turn posts to full page?
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For some reason I lost track of this thread. I began posting questions like this on my restoration thread and I must have forgotten to return here and reveal the final outcome. It turned out my drums were still within specifications. I had a local shop do a real skim turning, taking off just enough to get rid of the slight ridge that had formed. The brakes are now rebuilt and functioning.
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Does the never painted black only apply to Chrysler CM cars? My 1932 Dodge Brothers was definitely painted all black, with the color chalked on inside the body. The build tag I got from Chrysler Historical also identifies the factory body color as black.
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Installed the felt padding on the floorboards. The marine plywood is really tough. I bent numerous tacks and finally had to drill a shallow pilot hole to get the tacks started. Then I could drive them home. The old floorboards had enough of the felt still attached to give me the necessary pattern. Kind of difficult to photograph black felt on black wood, but you get the idea from these shots.
When I put the boards back in the car I could not believe how much the felt softened the interior noise and made the boards snug down into place.
Once the carpet with jute padding is installed, it should be pretty quiet in the back seat.
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I just did a deflection test. I put 150 pounds of weights on the middle of the floorboards and they deflected 1/4 of an inch. I performed the same test on the old floorboard (same section) that was in the best shape. It also deflected 1/4 of an inch. So, although mine have the grain going the wrong way, they appear to have about the same strength. Maybe the seven layers and the waterproof glue gave me a bit of an edge over standard plywood. Given these rather crude tests, I think I am okay to go with what I have.
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So, apparently, my new floorboards are incorrect. The plywood I used is marine grade with what appears to be seven layers. I guess I’ll have to rethink things and perhaps start over. The sheet of plywood was $97, so this is rather painful.
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It looks like the original was about 1/8th of an inch. Here is a remaining original piece on one of the old floorboard supports (removed from the bottom of the floorboard). You can see the black felt tacked to the bottom of the wood. This rested on the top of the frame with the felt sandwiched in between the frame and the wood.
I bought this roll of felt years ago and I've forgotten where. It may have been Restoration Specialties, but I'm not sure. It's exactly the same size and thickness (allowing for some compression in the original over the years).
I suppose you could use modern urethane or the like, but I'm trying to stay as original as possible. The felt worked just fine for 88 years, so why reinvent the wheel?
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Got the rear floorboards finished and painted. Just have to install the felt strips for padding against the frame and they'll be ready to put in the car.
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Thanks everyone - some good ideas.
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Only a few inches. I've already made the floorboards from marine plywood, so I'm sticking with that. I'm thinking the Homasote i used for the front floorboard pads might work as it has a high fire rating. it's thicker than the original asbestos sheet, but I think it will clear the frame cross members without a problem.
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Okay, I need some help here. Any advice will be more than welcome. As I showed several postings ago, my wooden floorboard had a hole burned through it by heat from the muffler. When I examined the floorboard closely, I could see remnants of what I assume was asbestos sheet that had been nailed to the board. At some point the sheet must have fallen off or failed in some way. I obviously don't want a repeat event and have Daphne burned to the ground on some pleasant spring outing.
This really could have been a disaster...
I know asbestos is a big no-no these days. What would you suggest I use in its place? I need a relatively thin sheet material that will lie flat on the bottom of the floorboards and not look too modern in appearance. From what was left of the original material, it was an off white, woven cloth no more than a 1/16 of an inch thick. Obviously, it needs to be fireproof.
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No interior shots. That usually spells big, expensive trouble.
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Tory, I have a detailed explanation with pictures of how I made new brake lines on my restoration thread in this section of the site.
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Here is the top before I removed it. The holes in the front are from a huge ice slab that fell on the car when Phil Kennedy, the PO, owned it. The padding was totally eaten by mice.
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Torry -
My top is in pretty good shape. The wood is still good and the metal surround pieces are all there and in good shape. I may replace the screws that hold the wood and metal together once I determine how rusty they are and clean and paint the metal. I have already purchased the top covering and the inner padding.
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I can’t believe the quick progress you’re making. It puts my feeble efforts to shame. Heal fast and stay safe.
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I guess my point of sticking to digital unless you really want to get into a fairly complicated and somewhat expensive hobby would be the same as to someone contemplating restoring a car for the first time - there’s a lot more to it than just pressing a shutter button or turning an ignition key, but both can be very rewarding if you are willing to put in the time, money and effort.
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One of the problems with this style of camera is the bellows. They often crack and develop pinholes as the material ages and stiffens. Also, film in the twenties and thirties was very different from that made after World War Two. The color response (even though it’s black and white) is different. Also light leaks and questionable developing and printing often lead to the “antique” effects of fogging and vignetting. Save yourself time and money and stick with the digital system and effects unless you really want to get into the very expensive hobby of Silver nitrate photography.
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Spent 12 hours in the garage yesterday and truly realized how old I'm getting. i was too tired to even post the progress until today. I worked on the car floorboards. It's always seemed odd to me that my car has an all steel body and metal kick panels, but wooden floors. I think the 33s have metal floors, but my 32 stuck with an old fashioned approach. Since I'm a better wood worker than metal fabricated, this is probably a good thing in my case.
So I finished the metal floorboards, two pieces that bolt together, and they are ready to go.
Then I completed the rearmost floorboard. It's made of marine plywood. The original floorboards were also plywood and probably made with waterproof glue like my new ones. It's actually three pieces - the main plywood floor and two support pieces, made of oak, on each end. These pieces rest on the frame, padded by a felt strip. The u-shaped opening above the differential is covered by a domed metal plate.
Next came the second, narrow, floorboard. I'm not sure why they made this in two pieces, but the reason is probably lost in the mist of time. This fit nicely into place. The screwdrivers are just to make sure everything lined up with the threaded support piece on the frame that the mounting bolts screw into. You can see the oak support pieces at the very bottom of the photo.
The reason I'm replacing the floorboards is because the originals were covered in a sticky, tar-like covering that was impossible to remove. It was unfortunate because the tops of the boards were in reasonable shape - in certain instances - but some of the plywood was delaminating and there was no saving it in any case. The next floorboard illustrates how lucky I am that this car didn't go up in flames. This is the area over the muffler and under the front seat. At some point this must have caught fire - long before I owned it. It may be the reason the front seat was reupholstered with cheap vinyl before I bought it. It will be covered with fireproof material when I finish it.
You can see the new floorboard under the original and the new support piece in this shot.
Here are the three rear floorboards in place. The seat sits over the wide front board and the battery opening. I still don't have the support pieces attached to the wide board as i am still lining things up. They will be flush with the edge of the board when I'm finished.
The boards in front of the seat have a black rubber floor covering and in the rear it's all carpeted. Back to work tomorrow.
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Man, if anything can go wrong on your car, it will!
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What happened to the cars for sale section
in Forum Questions and Answers
Posted
I know it’s a thankless job, but to me the new layout is much harder to read. Navigation may just seem more difficult as the appearance has changed and things have been moved around. But my main complaint is the new graphic style. It seems clumsy and hopelessly complex. I much preferred the much easier to read “old” style. Once you get into a thread, it’s fine, but getting there is just plain ugly. Just my two cents and probably worth half that.