Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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Chrysler’s may be totally different, but my 32 Dodge Brothers has an all steel body. Construction of this sedan looks similar to,my car.
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That is actually a 1932 Dodge Brothers DL six. I should know, I own one.
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Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the support.
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I just wanted to apologize to all the members who have been following this thread for years. About two months ago I received my second Covid shot. A few days later I began to experience massive fatigue, shortness of breath, headaches and a general lack of concentration. I went to the doctor and all tests keep coming back normal, but they can't explain what's going on. Just getting up in the morning and getting dressed has become a major undertaking. I have all sorts of projects on Daphne that I need and want to finish, but I just can't get up the energy to go out into the garage and do them. To top things off, at about the same time I developed a raging case of shingles - "one of the worst he's ever seen" according to my doctor. So I'm exhausted and in constant pain. I'm not complaining or looking for sympathy, I'm just trying to explain why this thread has gone dead for so long. It's very depressing as I'm in the home stretch with the car and a few good weeks would have her on the road and getting the upholstery completed. As the weather is warming up, I hope my strength returns and I can get back to business. In the meantime, I'm sorry to disappoint anyone out there who's has been following the progress. I will get this finished.
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I paid 4 grand for my 32 Dodge Brothers in much better shape. The problem with your car, as cool as it is, is that it won’t do much more than 45mph with a good tailwind and twenties sedans are not very popular at the moment. If the car ran, most folks would probably drive it as is as a survivor. Getting it running after sitting that long is a crap shoot. The engine may or may not be seized and the fuel system, the brakes and wiring would need attention. As it sits, I would take an offer of $2500 all day long.
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Not a 32, different housing.
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Yes it’s finally warming up enough to head back into the garage. We have had very cold weather here for quite awhile, so cold my LED overhead lights would not fire up.
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No problem. Just checked the classified ads in the Dodge Brothers Club Magazine and found two 1924 Dodge Brothers touring cars, one at 14 grand, the other at ten grand. Both looked to be in good shape. And as you said, you might get lucky - it can’t hurt to try.
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Hard to tell without seeing the interior. If it’s nice, maybe eight to ten on the coast. Five to eight in the middle of the country - we’re cheap and have to consider shipping costs. You’ll have to find the right buyer, these hit forty-five with a tailwind and are more around the town, get ice cream and parade cars. Prewar cars seem to have taken a hit lately, especially run of the mill twenties models - and it’s not an open car. Don’t get me wrong, I’m in the Dodge Brothers Club and love the car, but I have to be realistic. I hope you’ll find someone to love it.
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If you haven't seen the work of artist Robert LaDuke, look him up. A Google search will bring up dozens of his paintings. The guy is a master at evoking thirties and forties art with cars, trucks, trains and planes as the subject matter. I, personally, can't get enough of his stuff. Just a few of his paintings..
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You pretty much have to remove the headliner and the panel between the driver’s side door on a 32. I suspect the 33 is the same.
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A bit of nostalgia gone forever. Previous owner Phil Kennedy put these Syracuse decals on after he bought Daphne from me. They've been on the car over fifty years and I agonized over leaving them on or... I finally decided to take them off as they are not period correct. After I did it, I felt like a criminal that had vandalized an ancient relic. Sorry Syracuse and Phil.
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1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said:
We can get square rubber O rings down here in Aust.
There you go - you learn something every day. I had no clue.
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Anything with a cotter pin should have a castellated nut - unless the nuts were replaced by the previous owner. The only other thing with cotter pins would be any pivot pins you have. Without a cotter pin, the pivot pins would just fall out, so you probably already know their location.
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In theory it seems like that would work. I found the cork to be easy to work with and the perfect size. Since it was what was originally used, I went with it. My only reservation would be that the slot for the cork is square with right angle sides. I’d be afraid that the rubber o ring might slip out of the slot given that it’s round and the slot is square.
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Yes, that's a shot of my u-joint. I took mine apart, and I'm glad I did as one of my bearings was shot. You have to pry the spring off and pop it back. I obviously had to remove the zerk fitting to get mine off. The the dome will slide off. I was lucky, the bad bearing was in the front u-joint and I had a spare on another transmission. The rear u-joint is attached to the driveshaft (welded on) and I'm not sure how you would handle that. On the rear u-joint you have to slide the spring and the dome all the way down the driveshaft to get hem completely off. The second larger dome is held on by the mounting blots and two smaller bolts. You can see one of the smaller bolts at the one o'clock position in this photo.
Once you get both dome pieces off, this is what you will find.
After I cleaned it up and checked the bearing, I discovered the cork gasket on the smaller dome was shot. It came out in pieces, hard and dried out.
I found some cork sheet of the correct thickness on EBay and cut strips to the proper length and installed them in the slot in the dome.
I then filled the large inner dome with lube and bolted it one after making a new gasket. I lubed the cork gasket on the small dome, slipped it on and installed the spring.
Since everything inside looked okay I went with the original setup. I doubt that I could have found parts to repair anything broken. As much as i would have hated to do it, I probably would have had a new driveshaft made with modern joints.
In your case, I would install a zerk and pump the lube in - a few tablespoons is not enough. And I would bet your cork gasket/seal is rock hard and not doing its job.
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I tried everything under the sun and never got this area totally leak free. Several pages on my Daphne restoration thread dealing with this problem and the frustration involved. Now it seeps slightly, but once I’m driving around - who knows? Aside from machining groves in the case to take o-rings, I couldn’t figure any other way to stop leaks. I took my tranny out three times trying to fix it.
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5 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:
Richbad,
My daughter just bought one of these....Its called a CRICUT....she can cut out all different types of things on it.
I'll see if she can do cork ones.....might be an opportunity for her !
They work great for gaskets. I posted the process on my restoration thread. The only problem you might have with cork is getting it off the sticky pad without damaging it.
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The shock rebuild starts on page 14 and finishes on page 15. Sometimes, depending on the way you have your settings, your page numbers may not match up with mine. Just in case, the posts were posted starting on January 24, 2015, so you can check the date posted to find them. Let me know if you need any other information. The rear shocks a slightly larger, but come apart and go together in exactly the same way as the fronts.
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I’ll find the page numbers for you tomorrow - too full of turkey to move tonight.
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Just a quick hint - if you need to put the windows back in your car, be sure to do it before you reach the age of 60. I waited until I was 74 and am paying the price. Aside from the fact that I cannot bend over more than 5 degrees after a day in the garage, everything is going fine. Getting the window lever into the slots in the glass channel is one of the most frustrating jobs I have ever attempted - especially the front windows. I would have loved to meet the guy at the factory that did this job and ask him how the heck he accomplished it on a moving assembly line.
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Not sure if my 32 Dodge Brothers has the same setup, but mine has two rollers on the crank mechanism that slide onto a channel along the bottom of the window. There are two open slots in the channel that have to be lined up with the roller before they can be pulled free. As I remember - it’s been five years - they were a real pain to get off. I’m about to put mine back on and I’m not looking forward to it!
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I'm also putting in the door latch activators and the window cranks inside the doors. You have to install both before you put the glass back in. It's a bit tricky fishing them through the holes in the doors, but I managed to get them in place without much of a problem.
Window crank in place.
Door latch mechanism installed.
I have two good door latch mechanisms - both on the drivers side, and two that need to be rebuilt.
This is the driver front door mechanism. It obviously still needs cleaning.
The back quarter windows are a breeze. Here is the glass installed with the window channels in, but not yet secured.
Inside the body, the area around the glass is completely open. Once the channels are secured, you simply snap the crank lever in place and bolt the crank plate in place. Much easier than fishing down inside the body to get things in place.
This weekend's project is to rebuild the two door latch mechanisms and get them installed. Then, all the glass will be ready to go back in.
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Installing the window weatherstripping today. I have been trying to figure out a way to seal the opening between the outside of the window glass and the body. From all I can discover, there never was a seal/wiper in there. I didn't want to redesign the car, but I wanted a little protection from water and debris simply falling through the opening and landing in the bottom of the door. There are several holes in the bottom of the door that the factor apparently thought would solve the problem. My solution isn't perfect, but it will offer some protection - I hope.
This is the rear door glass, ready to go.
I found this rubber extrusion from Metro Molded Parts.
I had originally planned to attach it to the body on the inside of the window frame, but realized attaching it to the base of the glass would make more sense. I used weatherstripping adhesive to secure it in place.
This stuff, if properly applied, really holds well. I applied it to both surfaces - the window base and the extruded rubber.
Then the most important part of the process - you have to let it dry until it's tacky, much like contact cement. Once it had become very tacky, I placed the rubber on the window base. You only get once chance at this as it sticks immediately and doesn't want to move.
Then I clamped it down. I let it dry overnight and it's ready to go the next day.
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The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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For the first time in a long time I actually felt good today. I went out in the garage and cleaned off the workbench. I put away tools that had been lying around for months. The temperature in the afternoon was close to 80, so I painted my brake and clutch assembly. Those patient enough to follow this thread may remember me doing that a few years ago. I discovered some problems which I’ll discuss tomorrow (with pictures) and show how I resolved the situation. Nice to be back working on the car!