Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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I’m not sure the switch cares, but I would think that the Ignition terminal takes the power feed coming in from the ammeter. Then the other two terminals are the wire to the negative terminal on the coil and the other to the fuel gauge. So, when the switch is turned on, you get power to both the coil and fuel gauge. Basically like your car with the external coil. I guess they gave up the one piece coil/ignition switch arrangement after 32.
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Well, with a little persuasion, the tube fit into the dash mount perfectly. I was surprised at how little stress there seemed to be with the coil inserted in the other end of the tube. it doesn't weigh as much as I thought or stick out as far as I thought it would. I may drill a few holes in the tube as kieser31 suggested, but I don't want to weaken the tube to the point it fails. Just how hot do coils get? There doesn't seem to be any cooling setup to dissipate the heat, and I've also seen hotrodders put them inside billet mounts that I suspect would also hold in heat, fins or not. I've seen coils mounted on the top of the engine, which is definitely not the coolest place on the car. I guess if it starts to melt, I'll have my answer.
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8 minutes ago, JACK M said:
Coils can run pretty hot.
This might result in a softening (or worse) of the clear tube.
Maybe a PVC water pipe could handle the heat better, after all it should handle hot water. (and would be stiffer)
I would keep a REAL close eye on this when you get it running.
The idea is genius however.
I hope it works.
I had the same concerns. The acrylic tube I got has a very high temperature rating. It's designed for high heat situations. I am a bit worried that it might hold in the heat from the coil and cause problems. Still have some concerns on that front.
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I've discussed this ignition switch before but I'm still not sure exactly how it works. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to wiring, so bear with me. The switch has two positions - on and off. You turn the key and there is no middle position, it just turns to the right and stops.
On the back of the switch there are three terminals marked BAT, STA and IGN, which I assume are Battery, Starter and Ignition.
When I turn the key on and test continuity, I get current flow between Ignition and Battery and between Ignition and Starter. I am assuming the Ignition post receives the current and the
Battery and Starter distribute the current. What confuses me is there is also current flow between Battery and Starter without touching the Ignition post. With the key off there is no current flow
between any posts. So, are the Battery and Starter posts connected and really serve no relevant purpose? Why not just have two terminals, a current feed into the Ignition and a single post to feed to the
necessary devices on the dash? Would a single terminal somehow overload the switch or...? Just trying to figure out how to wire this up since I no longer have the integral coil/switch that originally
came with the car.
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One of the irritating items that comes up when restoring early thirties Chrysler products is the use of the integral coil and ignition setup. Finding original coils for these cars is difficult, let alone finding one that works. They do make reproductions, but at several hundred bucks it was a little too much for my budget. I started talking about this several years ago on this thread, but I finally figured out a possible fix that is inexpensive and retains much of the original look - as long as you don't get too far under the dash! Most of the time, as on Daphne, when the original coil went out, they just bought a cheap coil and screwed the mount onto the firewall - inside or outside the car. Then the wiring was jury rigged and you kept on driving. I wanted to get the coil back up behind the ignition key where it belonged. The original clamp for the factory coil is still there in very good shape. Sorry these pictures are so bad - I had to use my phone to get up under there.
Here is the bracket with the replacement ignition switch installed as it was when I got the car in 1965.
There is not really enough of the bracket left with the switch installed to safely get the coil in there. Here is what I came up with...
First, I bought a clear, heat resistant acrylic tube that has an inner diameter just slightly larger than my new coil and an outer diameter slightly smaller than the clamp opening. Here are the three pieces, the coil, the tube and the ignition switch.
As you can see, the coil fits nicely inside the tube.
I'll cut the tube to length and put a cutout along the side so it will clamp down on the coil.
The ignition key also fits my sidemount locks, not sure how that came about, but it was like that when I bought the car so I'm not complaining.
I don't think any additional support will be necessary - the dash clamp is pretty robust, but I can always run a strap up to the firewall if it looks too end heavy.
We'll see how this Rube Goldberg device works as I implement it.
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Trunk lights are both sold.
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dpcdfan, I did not receive a PM under your name. Try again, Gary, I don't know what happened.
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Is EDPM a brand name - or am I just showing my ignorance?
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This begs the question - why not come up with a protective coating that doesn't require an industrial strength cleaning to get it off? Does a sheet explaining the removal come with the tires when you purchase them?
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Buy them now. Just ask all the folks who put off ordering their interior fabric and kits from LeBaron-Bonney. If something is available and you need it - buy it before it’s too late.
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I may have posted this before, but this is the photo I always come back to when things get tough. Taken by Phil Kennedy in 1970. Note the mismatched color on the wire wheels, which were like that when I bought the car.
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In the always popular "been there, done that" category, I'm in the process of making/getting a new firewall pad and making rubber grommets for the firewall pass-thoroughs. I asked PO, and fellow Dodge Brothers member, Phil Kennedy to send me some firewall and under dash photos of his very original DL so I could get a good look at what things should look like. As always, Phil quickly replied with excellent shots. That's were the trouble started. I noticed with alarm that there was a brace under the dash from the firewall to below the instrument panel - a brace I didn't remember seeing during my meticulous parts organization this winter. Maybe it was still on the car. I went out to the garage and checked. No brace. Then I commenced on the arduous trek so may of us have traveled - the search for the elusive missing part. I swear I searched every shelf, box, storage container, dusty corner and rafter in the garage. I know I had seen that brace sometime in the last year or two, but it had now vanished into the vapor, never to be seen again. I desperation, I turned to John Kieser, knower of all cars, who had helped me find parts for Daphne in the past. A friend of his had the cowl of an old DL and had sent me some windshield parts several years ago. I contacted John who put me in touch with his friend, Alan. To my amazement, the cowl was still sitting behind his house - and the brace was still there. He took it off and sent it to me. This is what the old car world is all about - friendly people going out of their way to help someone in need. The brace arrived today. I'm sure as soon as I have it cleaned up and painted, my original brace will magically appear in a space I checked at least five times a few days ago, but that's the way it always goes. Thanks, Phil, John and Alan!
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Just think it through before you start cutting. I assume you'll wait until you get your new floors. That should give you a better idea of what needs to be cut out. You'll get through it. If I had a dollar for every new problem i had to deal with on my car, I'd be a rich man. I guess I'm lucky, my Dodge Brothers 32DL has wood floors that bolt in.
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Interesting. I'm going to be doing this in the near future and am curious about the best way to go about it. I've seen where they are tacked on and then the heads of the tacks are carefully pulled under the cloth but still hold the upholstery board beneath. I'm sure the upholstery experts can explain the process, but I've yet to try it. That obviously won't work in your case as you are not using cloth fabric.
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Are you going to glue in those back panels or use a different attachment method?
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I forgot to mention the trunk stoplight bezels are for sedans only, they don’t fit the coupe or convertible.
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Everything is still available as of this post.
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Man, I was looking at the first page of this thread that I started back in April of 2013. I was happy to read that my wife and I had a "comprehensive" plan to have the car restored in time for the 2014 hundredth anniversary meet in Detroit. Boy, was I ever dreaming! Seven years later and I'm still grinding away. Despite downsizing, loss of garage space, knee replacement, restoration setbacks and finding parts, I'm not giving up. I really think I can actually drive the car this summer (late summer) but it won't be finished - interior completion I suspect. For some reason, last year it just wasn't fun to work on the car, probably due to health reasons. That has changed and I'm suddenly really enthusiastic to work on Daphne again and having fun doing it. So if your restoration stalls, don't give up, stick with it. What I have in the garage, compared to what I brought home is really remarkable and I'm frankly amazed I did all that when I look at it. I have also come to the realization that it isn't going to be perfect - I have neither the skill nor finances to make it so, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel - a fun, driveable car that will get looks and give enjoyment to many (mostly me).
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I have a rebuilt Stromberg carb for a 1953-54 Dodge Red Ram Hemi V8 with a Gyromatic transmission. Never been on a car since the rebuild. I sold the engine I bought it for several years ago. $40 plus shipping.
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Two NOS trunk stoplight bezels with glass lens. As good as it gets with great chrome and the factory applied red paint in the lettering. No pits, no flaws, the back looks as clean as the front. $35 each.
SOLD
Rebuilt voltage regulator, still in the wrapping paper - never opened. Pristine. $10
I'd like to see these parts go to someone who really needs them. Unfortunately, I don't have the room to keep them anymore. I can provide more pictures if you're interested.
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Have some really nice parts for sale. These are left over from a 48 I used to own. Shipping on you and is what I pay based on your location.
Four taillight bezels, factory chrome, no pitting or damage. Not Pebble Beach - but what factory parts are? just super nice with perfect reflectors. $25 each or $80 for all four.
SOLD
NOS taillight glass (not plastic) with soft, pliable rubber grommets. $20 for everything.
NOS horn rim. Not perfect, but really nice. Chrome shines. There are a few tiny bumps on the inside of the rim that I believe are casting flash. No rust or pitting. $20
SOLD
Sedan rear trunk latch. Re-chromed to nice driver quality. Perfect license plate glass, comes with key and re-chromed handle. $30
SOLD
Four NOS clips for lower stainless trim. Super hard to find as they always seem to be badly rusted. These have never been used. $40
Four inside door handles, three door and one window. No pits or rust, nice chrome. Plastic is perfect on window handle.
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Two NOS trunk stoplight bezels with glass lens. As good as it gets with great chrome and the factory applied red paint in the lettering. No pits, no flaws, the back looks as clean as the front. $35 each.
SOLD
SOLD
Rebuilt voltage regulator, still in the wrapping paper - never opened. Pristine. $10
I'd like to see these parts go to someone who really needs them. Unfortunately, I don't have the room to keep them anymore. I can provide more pictures if you're interested.
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I have some really nice parts for sale. These are left over from a 48 I used to own. Shipping on you and is what I pay based on your location.
Four taillight bezels, factory chrome, no pitting or damage. Not Pebble Beach - but what factory parts are? just super nice with perfect reflectors. $25 each or $80 for all four.
SOLD
NOS taillight glass (not plastic) with soft, pliable rubber grommets. $20 for everything.
NOS horn rim. Not perfect, but really nice. Chrome shines. There are a few tiny bumps on the inside of the rim that I believe are casting flash. No rust or pitting. $20
SOLD
Sedan rear trunk latch. Re-chromed to nice driver quality. Perfect license plate glass, comes with key and re-chromed handle. $30
SOLD
Four NOS clips for lower stainless trim. Super hard to find as they always seem to be badly rusted. These have never been used. $40
Four inside door handles, three door and one window. No pits or rust, nice chrome. Plastic is perfect on window handle.
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Sent you an email.
1946 to Early 1949 Plymouth Parts
in Parts For Sale
Posted
PM me your information and I'll send it to you.