Taylormade
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Posts posted by Taylormade
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It sounds like this guy is not a motivated seller. You said the car in question is "original and authentic," but that you intend to do a repaint. These days, preservation cars go for as much, if not more, than restored cars, but I don't know the actual condition of the car you're looking at. If mearly discussing the price turned this guy off, I'd look elsewhere.
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I check eBay listings all the time and often chuckle at some of the starting prices (always with RESERVE NOT MET right below). Most of these cars sit there for a week with no bids, and most of the rest never reach the reserve. You can click on only "cars that sold" to get a better idea of what things are going for these days. In that category, there a quite a few nice cars that sold between five and ten grand and seem to have been bought for a reasonable price. I do often see the same cars coming up as "sold" several times with the same seller, so I have to assume the deal fell through and the car was listed again. Real bargains are far and few between, but it is fun to look.
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I wonder why anyone bought a Buick?
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I have read conflicting reports about using this pump (Airtex E8902) with a positive ground car like my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL. Some say it works, others claim it won't work with positive ground. Anyone have any real world experience with this?
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Is it just the engine block in the car? Has it been sitting, with the head off, open to the elements for the last seven to eight years? I assume that's the crankshaft in the third row photo, first on the left. Just to help you ballpark, I paid four thousand for 1932 Dodge DL six four door sedan with sidemounts. A very similar vehicle, although the Chrysler is a bit upscale from the Dodge. Mine was a running car, all together, that needed lots of work but was still in a bit better shape than yours.
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Anyone have a source for the correct brake shoe return springs for my DL. I ordered a set from Roberts and they are incorrect - the springs I received are apparently the correct parts number (T271), but , they are too short by almost an inch. The diameter of the Roberts supplied spring is 7/16 of an inch, while my spring is 5/8".
My spring length - 6-5/8"
Roberts spring length - 5-1/2"They tell me they don't have the correct springs and gave me a refund, but it would be nice to locate a supplier who can give me the correct stuff or not list it as correct in their catalog. Anyone tell I'm having a lousy day?
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Here is the culprit, and the measurements I'm talking about. The guy who turned my drums (a real old-timer) told me they were tapered so the seal would slip on more easily when the drum was pushed on. The "top" is were the seal first slips on, the "bottom" where the shaft meets the drum.
The taper seems normal, not caused by wear and is about the same on both rear drums.
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ply33, on another topic, I was reading your description of the repair on your rear brake hubs using a Speedi-Sleeve to repair the contact surface of the brake drum shaft the outer rear axle seal runs against. It looks like your shaft is a smaller diameter than mine as the Speedi-Sleeve 99189 works on a shaft size of 1.887 to 1.893. My shaft mikes out to 2.00 at the top and 2.05 at the bottom. Was the shaft on your drum tapered like this? It's the taper that has me worried. I've used the sleeves before, but never on a tapered shaft. I can find several Speedi-Sleeves that are close, but nothing with the range I need. 99204 seems the closest with a range of 2.040 to 2.047 - too loose on top, too tight on the bottom. There is also 99199 with a range of 1.097 to 2.003 - just right at the top, way too tight at the bottom. I can find no listings for a tapered Speedi-Sleeve so I guess I'll just have to take a chance and see what happens.
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I think I misunderstood ply33's post. Are you sanding the shoes off the backing plate by sliding them back and forth inside the drum, or are you putting the paper on the drum and then putting the drum back over the installed shoes and rotating the drum? I had assumed the former, but as readers of this thread probably know, I'm usually wrong.
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The sanding idea sounds interesting. I assume you were able to keep the shoes flat enough against the drum to prevent a wedge shape to a cross-section of the lining. I always seem to have a problem keeping the surface flat against the abrasive when sanding. Do you remember what grit you used?
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I'm unclear (from the 1750 instructions I found online) what the extension pin does. It was mentioned above by several members that I probably don't need it, and I couldn't find it in the instructions. From what I can see in the pictures of the unit I bought, I have the parts to measure the diameter of the drum and what I need to adjust the shoes. Am I missing something - mentally and/or needed parts?
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Well, I bit the bullet and bought the EBay item 30dodge35 kindly pointed out. I ended up paying just north of $190, which is more than I wanted to pay, but seeing the ridiculous prices these things are bringing, I guess it was somewhat of a bargain. Someone bid $189.00 with seconds to go, but I idiotically bid quite a bit higher than that with 2 minutes to go and he didn't go high enough. For a while I thought it was mine at $137, which would have been a bargain. Thanks for the generous offers of site members countrytravler and 30dodge35, who offered to loan me theirs.
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Yeah, I saw that. I don't think it is complete, which is probably why the bidding is so low. Can you tell what's missing?
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Your crown wheel is held on the carrier by the same system as the 1930 DC. Were all the lock tabs up and the bolts tight when you looked at them?
One of the bolts broke in my DC. Luckily the broken-off head fell down and was pushed through the back cover (hence the oil drained out) rather than going through the pinion gear. Every tab was in correct position and every bolt was loose, not even finger tight. No wonder one broke. The cover had been repaired after a previous similar failure, as had one of my spares. My thinking was it was a systemic failure so I used Unbrako bolts, drilled, torqued and then tied in pairs. Luckily it broke going over a speed hump at 5 mph in a car park.
I am enjoying your restoration, not least because the car and its systems are so similar to the DC.
Spinneyhill, I took a look at my crown wheel in preparation of buttoning up the rear axle. I don't doubt your problems, but I'm darned if I can figure out what happened in your case. I checked each bolt on my crown gear carefully. None had broken or seemed the least bit loose and all the tabs were bent up tight against the bolts.
Were your tabs also bent up against the bolts after the breakage? I don't see how any bolt could be loose if the tabs were up unless someone bent the tabs down, loosened the bolts and then bent the tabs back up. I can certainly see how a bolt head might break off, but fail to see how any bolt could loosen up. Or did I misread your original comment? That's been known the happen on my part quite often!
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A no sale twice at an opening bid of $24,999 and $22,000. No bids either time. A nice, driver quality sedan with sidemounts, but I think he's too high. So did other potential bidders.
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Is the body currently off the frame? I would make a cradle for the motor and attach the flywheel, clutch, bell-housing, throwout bearing and transmission off the car, then lift the entire assembly into the frame as one unit. I'm not an expert on the 25 model, so there may be a fly in the ointment with my method on your car. If anything, install the motor first, then the transmission.
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So are you sure they are P and not B? The wee bosses are probably stamped with cylinder bore sizes.
Upon a closer look, I believe you are correct - they do appear to be the letter B. The bottoms of both letters are faint, but you can see the beginning curve of the B.
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A bit of quick restoration for a better look. It must have been pretty windy that day as the movement of the leaves in the trees is obviously blurred by the long exposure.
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It sure does. A P and a C. Funny how your eyesight starts to go with age.
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I must be one of the last people who successfully bought from him. I wonder what the heck happened?
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My guess is the BFC on your paint & trim might be for Bedford cord which was typically a slightly higher priced interior option than mohair in that era.
I think those other stamped letters on your block are inspection stamps giving some information about the original cylinder bore sizes/tolerances.
Good catch. My car does have a Bedford Cord interior. That was also my guess on the stamped letters, but I'm surprised there are only four, not six.
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Came in from the garage and discovered a package containing my resleeved brake and master cylinders sitting on the front porch. I had Hagen's do them and they look good.
I was trying to find some NOS replacements, but these things are really tough to find. The front cylinders are an unusual 1-3/8 inch bore with closely spaced bolt holes. No luck anywhere trying to find those. The rears are the more common 1-1/4 inch bore, but almost everyone sells a stepped version of this cylinder. I finally caved and had them resleeved in stainless. Took a little over a week door to door and they look great. 65 bucks each including the rebuild kit.
The master cylinder is still available, but I just had mine resleeved. I don't know if the MC is original, but it's been on the car since at least 1965. Hagen's put it together for me. My brake shoes are in the mail, the brake lines are done, so the brakes should be finished this week.
Exterior Door Handle Help
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I'm getting ready to take the exterior door handles from my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL sedan to the chrome shop. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the decorative escutcheon from the handle itself. As you can see in the photo, the escutcheon is held to the square shaft by the round washer, which in turn is held in place by two peened extensions on each side. If I file them off to free the round washer that holds everything together, how do I put them back together after the chrome is applied - there won't be anything to peen over? This looks like one of the few instances on these old cars where something was designed NOT to be taken apart. I'd love to hear from anyone who has dealt with this in the past.