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Posts posted by countrytravler
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We worked on this car for 2 years. This car is beautiful.
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On 5/1/2020 at 7:11 AM, Doug 845 said:
Nice car. I wish it were closer to me. The enclosed transportation cost to the northeast is a deal killer for me.
Transport is cheap at this time. Ship the car open. I have had million dollar cars on my truck. Never had a problem. Cars get damaged in closed transport also.
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On 4/30/2020 at 1:40 PM, terry54999 said:
!959 chevy wanted, I'm looking for 2 door, convert or possibly a wagon. restorable car or unfinished project. Im located in Michigan. willing to travel a reasonable distance for the right car. Let me know what you have, Thanks in advance. Terry
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bump
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On 4/24/2020 at 8:18 PM, 48NWYKR said:
The AC condensor has been there since before the trip started, tucked right up to the rad was a recent development, it actually works better there than further away.
I towed the trailer from Flagstaff to Albuquerque like that and then drove it all the way home, no heat issues at all. If the condensor did not hamper it there then a few extra square inches for the oil cooler wont do much? but I will keep an eye on it.
I have thought of mounting it all under the car but could never find a good spot. Lots of road grime and stuff gets kicked up around the fender wells and that general area.
Don't get me wrong if I come up with a better spot to locate it to I will, right now the easy way out with the least amount of effort and money is just to get a better mechanical fan that will move more air at lower rpms. And the big problem with electric is that I cant find a strong 6v fan, and cant get enough amps for a 12v fan.
Under stood.
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1 hour ago, 48NWYKR said:
Gave the old girl an oil change today, also had a small oil cooler lying around so I popped that in as well (for the engine oil, just put it after it leaves the bypass filter. It just dumps right back into the sump) I have lots of space so if it works at all I might upgrade to a bigger unit.
As for cooling, well it works 90% of the time. When you are going really slow up a long hill with almost no air moving over the rad from the forward speed of the car it gets a bit "warm" there are a ways to keep it from going nuts but its still not right. (running temp is usually between 180F and 210F)
My options are going electric again... after a bunch more googling I found that the electric fans that move enough CFM's draw way more amps than I can supply.
The smaller 12v sub 10Amp ones move around 1100/1300 cfm (cubic feet per min) that is enough to keep things cool ish at idle and in traffic as a helper to the mechanical fan but so far I have not needed it. However an old engine this size needs around 2500cfm+ to keep cool while runnig at rpm's. Now this is not a problem with the stock setup when you get going but it does not work pulling hard in first or second gear uphill dragging a trailer. To get enough amps to run the bigger fan is going to be a LOT of work because of the 6v system. (step up converters from 6v to 12v can only give you 10A)
(so far I have been unable to find a 2500+ cfm 6v fan)
The OTHER option and probably easier and certainly worth a try is a new 7 blade high volume mechanical fan to replace the old stamped stock steel fan blade.
Flexalite made a big 19inch 7 blade fan for big 440 motorhomes etc... I'll try that first. (should be less than $100 CAD)
I would have located the cooler under the car with a fan for cooling with a temp gauge. along with the condenser. I have done this on street rods with cooling problems and limited space.. Your hampering the air flow for the radiator. Just a thought.
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1 hour ago, 48NWYKR said:
Back in Canada, just finished our mandatory 14 day federal quarantine, had to rent a place to stay because our house is still rented out (until January.....ooof.)
So with the world gone crazy we are forced to re-think our plan.. not sure what to do yet. We left the trailer in storage in Albuquerque NM and drove just the car back to Canada.
2534km in 46 hours, we just slept in the car on the side of the road for a few hours. Dam she runs like a champion without the trailer
I will post a few more pictures from the trip soon and keep everyone updated on our future plans.
A few small modifications planned but for the most part it was a resounding success!!
Thanks for sticking with me and stay safe out there.
A customer from Vancouver Canada and I was just talking about you. He is buying a 1936 Dodge cab, 2 of them to make a quad cab. He has 8 year old twins that he is going to do the same in about 5 years.
Keep us posted and be save.
Dave
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2 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said:
I don't have the '37 Parts book, can you look at group 22 in that for me?
I thought you wanted to compare to the 37. Sorry. That's what I posted was to compare part numbers.
I think what you have is a Ply car wheel because of the guide holes. Ill do some research.
Dave
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2 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:
Dave was this the '37 rim sizes from my other Posting?
Yes.Does this answer the question that you were looking for?
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1 hour ago, Pete in PA said:
Really? Same year Chrysler product and the Dodge had the parking brake on the transmission and the DeSoto had them on the rear shoes/drums? That surprises me. Anyone know for sure? DeSoto owners care to weigh in? I don't have a DeSoto parts book to check numbers. Not that I've had any luck verifying numbers in my Dodge parts book...
I need to find a vintage Hollander catalog.The Chry and DeSoto with OD had e brake on the rear axle. Here is a picture of my 36 Desoto trans,
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Hi Surf. You need this truck to haul your 38 around to shows.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-Dodge-RE31-Truck/124156072596?hash=item1ce8475294:g:GngAAOSwrcZemHah
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I believe the e brake is in the rear end instead of the trans.
Wanted rear fenders.
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Wanted
Rear fenders for a 1933 to 1947 truck.
Small or big truck.
Thank you