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Posts posted by countrytravler
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3 hours ago, jpage said:
If appearance isn't an issue, I'd just use a couple of round hd. slotted screws or small carriage bolts with the square ground off and put the nuts on the inside. I'm surprised that it's riveted in place!
3 hours ago, jpage said:If appearance isn't an issue, I'd just use a couple of round hd. slotted screws or small carriage bolts with the square ground off and put the nuts on the inside. I'm surprised that it's riveted in place!
99% of the people that looked at it wouldn’t know the difference.
i had to go look my self.
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15 hours ago, johnworden1 said:
Engine side of the firewall. Above the coil. 2 pressed countersunk holes, one above the other. Fasteners in each hole secure the cowl vent lever assembly to the firewall. Can anyone describe the stock fasteners? The holes measure approx. 1/4" diameter. I say approx. because the holes are punched rather than drilled.
Vent support bracelet
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14 hours ago, totolili said:
I may have the headlamp support brackets that go inside the grill.
let me know if you need them.
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16 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
All mine are 1/2 ton. The Red Cross is a 1 ton.
then-one with the red wheels is a 3/4 ton ot larger.
Ask any questions about these Humpbacks. I’ll do my best to answer.
Dave
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3 hours ago, totolili said:
hi Alan,
my 38 has the splash guards and like you, one was bolted and one was rivetted. I don't have these engine guards and small center piece. Do you have a picture as where they go and what are the protecting?
Thanks,
Anatole
I may have the splash guards. I’ll take a look this weekend. Show pictures of your project please. We all love pictures.
thanks
Dave
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On 4/18/2023 at 8:50 PM, Hemi Joel said:
Hi, does anybody have a 46 to 50 straight 8 Chrysler engine they want to part with? I would be willing to buy a parts car if needed to get the engine.
I'm located in Minnesota, but willing to travel a ways to get one.
Please contact me via email at hemi67GTX@yahoo.com. be sure to use my name Joel in the title of the email to get past my spam filter.
Thanks
Give me a call. I have a couple plus parts.
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5 hours ago, Made In Michigan said:
Problem solved. I jacked up the rear end and started it up, checked the belt, pulley, fan blade. Everything ran fine so I removed the driveshaft and took it to a specialist, they told me it was so far out of tune it couldn’t be fixed so they cut off the ends and welded them on a new tube and balanced it. $188. Just now went for a test run, got it up to 45 mph and it was all smooth sailing!
Had another customer with a 35 Dodge pickup. Went over with him and we went through the possibilities. He said it started when he hit a curb with his pass rear tire. Told him to jack it up and put an object on the ground and spin the wheel. It turned out to be a bent axle.
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That is great news. Darn good price for a shaft. You did not get the shaft on that one!! LOL
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On 4/25/2023 at 12:47 PM, Scott Bonesteel said:
Need to correct my last statement: Many of the larger 35 second series Dodge Trucks did go to the new style cab. The Panels and commercial sedans stayed with the old 'suicide' style doors.
I think the 3-ton and larger trucks stayed with the regular doors. I'll do some checking.
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Thank you, sir.
Helps a lot.
Dave
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8 minutes ago, Alan Cutler said:
Hi partner,
You talking about the combo tail light and license plate bracket?
On the Carb linkage, from the pedal to the carb linkage or choke and manual throttle linkage?
Hi
From the bracket bolted to the engine to the carb.
Yes on the combo. Is that one or two parts?
Thanks
Dave
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Hi Allen
Can you take a picture of the left rear light-plate bracket? Also the carb linkage.
Have a customer restoring a 37 Plymouth truck.
Thanks again
Dave
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I have it figured out. Details later. MAN!! I love it when a puzzle comes together.
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The Fords back in the 70s were losing a fan blade. It was a faulty Revit that was breaking-coming lose. Mechanics were getting injured from reaching over the front of the engine to rev the engine. Ford came out with a gauge to check the rivets.
I never reach over to rev the engine anymore on a belt-driven fan blade.
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Rotate tires from back to front-front to back if it still vibrates after removing the drive shaft.
Some of the vibrations over the years.
bad fan blade
engine
transmission
motor -trans mounts
bent frame
Clutch
Flex plate
torque converter
driveshaft
bent rear axle
tires
wheels
front end parts worn
master cylinder
e brake
brakes
and a few more
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3 minutes ago, Made In Michigan said:
When I had it in the frame shop they balanced the front wheels and shaved the high spots on the tires to make them perfectly round and corrected the toe in. That cured the death wobble, apparently the vibration was always there and I never noticed it because I couldn’t go faster than 25 without the front end shaking so violently (death wobble). Vibration feels like it’s under the floor. The slip joint is bolted to the sack of the hand brake I suppose it’s possible that could be out of balance but doubtful, I’m going to remove the driveshaft and do the tow thing at 45 mph. Gotta start somewhere
I have been a wrench most of my life. Owend full-service gas-repair gas stations in Detroit. We were better than most Mechanics working in dealers. That's because we worked on anything that you put fuel in. Go Karts to Semi trucks to heavy machinery. We even had dealers bring cars to us. We always had a great crew. Worked on cars starting with my dad at 8 years old in 1960.
These are the things that are a challenge to diag.
Vibration
Overheating
intermittent electrical shorts
Drivability- this is the hardest one
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Where are you feeling the vibration?
Steering wheel?
Shifter?
Seat?
Floor?
BIG LIST of NOS & NORS 1935 to 1941 DODGE & PLYMOUTH Parts.
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
How much for everything?