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countrytravler

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Posts posted by countrytravler

  1. 7 hours ago, Jolly_John said:

    1935-1941 DODGE and PLYMOUTH Parts

     

    All are new-old-stock (NOS) or new-old- replacement-stock (NORS) parts, except as noted. SEE PHOTOS AT END OF LIST. EVERY PART AVAILABLE ISN'T PICTURED. Just let me know, if you want to see a photo of a particular part not already shown. SHIPPING IS ADDITIONAL. Thanks for looking. John

     

    1. NOS ANCO vacuum wiper motor. Driver’s side. 1935-38 Dodge and Plymouth. With original box and instructions. $85

    2. ---

    3. ---

    4. Two NOS door handle return springs, for door latch mechanism. $18 for the pair

    5. NOS interior door handle & window crank retainer pins. Have six. $6 for all

    6. NORS brake master cylinder rebuilding kit. Includes piston. In original box. $25

    7. Two front wheel brake cylinder rebuilding kits. Complete with all parts needed. $20 for the pair

    8. Brake lining set for all FOUR wheels. Includes new rivets. $45 a set (does the complete car)

    9. Radiator cap. Have several. Four ears just like the originals. $10

    10. NOS oil pressure relief valve rebuild kit. Includes new plunger & spring. Easy to install. $15

    11. NOS oil filter mount. Complete with engine bracket and two filter surround pieces. $35

    12. Generator brush set. Have several. $18 a set

    13. NOS Autolite starter armature. 1935-48 DODGE and 1935-38 PLYMOUTH. $40

    14. NOS Autolite generator field coil set. 1937 to 1939 DODGE and PLYMOUTH. $35

    15. NOS major brand pre-focused headlight bulbs. Have several. Need spares? $15 a pair

    16. Knob for transmission gear shift lever. Hard plastic. Correct shape. Have several. $15 each

    17. Clutch throw-out bearing anti-rattle spring. Often missing. $5

    18. Factory rebuilt (might be MOPAR NOS) clutch pressure plate. 10” face diameter. Check yours to be sure of size. Has light very rust on housing from indoor shelf storage all these years. $75

    19. NORS flexible oil line that goes from the engine to the oil pressure gauge. Made in U.S.A. $10

    20. Genuine Steele Rubber fuel filler grommet. Goes around the gas filler neck on the rear fender exterior. 1936 to 1942 DODGE and PLYMOUTH. $25

    21. King pin set. Excellent made in U.S.A. quality. $45

    22. Left tie rod end. Major old brand. Made in U.S.A. $45

    23. Rear axle outer grease seal. Have one. $20

    24. Rear axle inner grease seal. Have two. $20 for the pair

    25. Transmission rear grease seal. Have three. $20 each

    26. Front wheel grease seal. Have two. $20 for the pair

    27. NOS front timing cover oil seal and cover surround gasket. Sealed MOPAR package. $10

    28. NOS oil pan front seal plate. Part # 600763. Cast aluminum. The 3 tapped holes for the lower timing cover bolts are usually stripped on many original engines. Have two. $35 each

    29. Complete oil pump. 1934-50 DODGE and PLYMOUTH. Clean, condition unknown. Has all gaskets included. $25

    30. Oil pump rebuild kit. 1934-50 DODGE and PLYMOUTH. Everything needed to rebuild your current pump. New-in-box. Have two. $50

    32. NORS timing chain. New in box. Quality made in U.S.A. $40

    33. Set of six re-manufactured connecting rods. U.S.A., new in box, with piston pin bushings. 1935-41 DODGE and PLYMOUTH. $240 set

    34. Set of six connecting rod bearings. .010 undersize. Made in U.S.A. TRW name brand. $50 set

    35. Set of six NOS intake valves. Part # 601258. Original equipment quality. U.S.A. $60 for the set

    36. Set of six NOS exhaust valves. Part # 686928. OEM quality. $75 for the set

    37. Set of twelve NOS valve springs. Part # 626585. Excellent made in U.S.A. quality. $48 for the set

    38. One piston for 217.8 MOPAR six. .030 under. New, made in U.S.A. quality. $10

    39. Head gasket. Top quality. Vintage made in U.S.A. Have several. $35 each

    40. NOS transmission small parts kit. Part # 939731. 1937-39 DODGE and PLYMOUTH Full of little tranny interior parts. $45

    41. U-joint housings, cover plates, bearings, housing sleave kits. Please inquire.

    42. Original DODGE factory flat rate book. Covers the time allowed for dealership mechanics to complete hundreds of different service procedures. Includes a cover letter from the DODGE national service manager on DODGE corporate stationary. Very good condition. $20

    43. NORS rear motor mounts. 1936-37 DODGE, 1935-37 PLYMOUTH. $35 for the pair

    44. ---

    45. NOS complete engine overhaul gasket set. Includes head and manifold gaskets, internal engine seals, and every gasket you’d expect in an engine overhaul set. Package factory-sealed in a clear wrap. All of the gaskets appear usable and made of modern materials. $85

    46. Fuel pump core, very clean and suitable for rebuilding. $15

    47. Fuel pump rebuilding kit. Some items, like screws are missing, but still has a lot of good items like a new arm, gaskets, valves, and glass bowl strainer. Diaphragm is old style material. $15

    48. NOS 1937 DODGE coupe and convertible license plate glass lens. Part number 668326. $35

    49. NOS 1937 DODGE headlight switch, all models. Part number 667044. $50

    50. USED 1937 DODGE sedan taillight housing. For driver’s side. $20

    51. NOS 1937 DODGE interior door handle. Nice original nickel plating. $30

    52. NOS 1937 DODGE interior window crank. Excellent original plastic knob and nickel plating. $35

    53. Good used 1937 DODGE interior window crank. Have TWO. Very good original plastic knob and nickel plating. Does have a few minor marks here and there, since it has been in service. $25 each

    54. Good used cowl vent exterior bug screen. Should be 1937 DODGE, but contact me for the size. $20

    55., 56., and 57. Ignition distributor tune-up kit. Points, rotor, condenser. Made in U.S.A. $30 for all.

    58. Manifold gasket set. Vintage made in U.S.A quality. $17

    59. NORS 1937 DODGE and PLYMOUTH (all, except 7 passenger) steering sector rebuilding kit. OEM part # 667217-ST. Includes new sector and all new bushings needed. $95

    60. NORS ignition distributor condenser. For AUTOLITE system. New in box. Have several. $6 each

                   Thanks again for taking a look gang. Don't hesitate to PM me, if you want to know if a part

                                                         on this list will fit your DODGE or PLYMOUTH. 

    016(900x701).jpg.14416aaa2ea579c3eacb13f8d34e8237.jpg027(800x681).jpg.6690d60c80c749c964a72a2fec71b2ec.jpg028(800x680).jpg.f2267406b0af8f0a74fca69d5d2208b1.jpg029(800x547).jpg.dcd59fadf369adab27ce7fe47f9ae57e.jpg031(800x613).jpg.bf2526c79cc9e318dae924738723d9a8.jpg023(800x530).jpg.2f357d3ab792e1e0b55d49b8b0f7c760.jpg026(800x666).jpg.889d7c7972291c0c165f859219507dad.jpg043(900x619).jpg.68eaedba0e3647de47649f67706fd736.jpg048(900x602).jpg.f5ac75fb7efd7fdee7dea62488207864.jpg009(900x779).jpg.6139ab1843620541451b332cecb8582e.jpg076(900x543).jpg.5d092036fdf145f3da3bfde9ee8f3c71.jpg087(900x557).jpg.142fefd30d9eb16acd17072bdca081af.jpg020(900x760).jpg.7187dbeb7e01dd6888ebd301f12ae7a7.jpg032(900x675).jpg.23ec3b2a287d862309c26c1c68030523.jpg002(900x430).jpg.cd05cd3e8e2e095bf740bef6eb0aa065.jpg022(800x600).jpg.ac8d1f596972e599660fd6452aaa3706.jpg003(800x719).jpg.c53e8f12c3521107326c128fc25311f3.jpg004(723x800).jpg.0f62aab6ad61aa2abc9b3b4d29d3f66e.jpg006(761x800).jpg.6fbfd4dcc5c7e14d6a46251a239a7047.jpg029(900x826)(2).jpg.fdb2c2b005fe07d74501928bed8b2edf.jpg008(900x752).jpg.1b2dd12b28c8a1a6cc6ec2daf24d43dd.jpg035(900x647).jpg.941dc12696dbb429679ef9342b537429.jpg011(900x606).jpg.d1c72db685ddc8f3812b3bdff01bf40b.jpg012(900x732).jpg.9193a6418cd39ddcde298121e5358134.jpg019(843x900).jpg.b1c2434b6b7cb7b21b6c626761f3cb01.jpg022(900x746).jpg.a4e407dd803e476c9592767b9f3dfacf.jpg025(900x789).jpg.2ee99ef4cdaad4f9bcaf5d8529f75c7f.jpg050(828x900).jpg.072ef9d3cc7c5f5b32607e6a11e2b674.jpg056(817x900).jpg.7961458b4bd8c934b80e8cdcf9f9e77a.jpg062(900x884).jpg.2c3bda5486729d1db5871e5c3899caf8.jpg066(815x900).jpg.c33491568e3b6b1e4d410c26705582d5.jpg068(900x684).jpg.67c17f9d4c9f975857f81e53374296bd.jpg013(900x675).jpg.03349ccfa74b46f520eb0bbaef87bc2e.jpg019(900x644).jpg.530b53e00f6ef8ae183d02faf1b04865.jpg021(900x656).jpg.17634811dc9d3a34243e5e92f0a71655.jpg039(900x752).jpg.4d31b6a983bdd12d927909328e923faf.jpg041(900x825).jpg.e4717150ba2abdaac18d7dbbd1be3ea1.jpg

     

    How much for everything?

  2. 3 hours ago, jpage said:

    If appearance isn't an issue, I'd just use a couple of round hd. slotted screws or small carriage bolts with the square ground off and put the nuts on the inside. I'm surprised that it's riveted in place!

     

    3 hours ago, jpage said:

    If appearance isn't an issue, I'd just use a couple of round hd. slotted screws or small carriage bolts with the square ground off and put the nuts on the inside. I'm surprised that it's riveted in place!

    99% of the people that looked at it wouldn’t know the difference.

    i had to go look my self. 

  3. 15 hours ago, johnworden1 said:

    Engine side of the firewall. Above the coil. 2 pressed countersunk holes, one above the other. Fasteners in each hole secure the cowl vent lever assembly to the firewall. Can anyone describe the stock fasteners? The holes measure approx. 1/4" diameter. I say approx. because the holes are punched rather than drilled. 

    Thanks,   JohnIMG_22671.JPG.568dd7db15fd07a6194fdb37285ee716.JPGIMG_22671.JPG.568dd7db15fd07a6194fdb37285ee716.JPG

     

    Vent support bracelet 

    IMG_6284.jpeg

    IMG_6283.jpeg

  4. 14 hours ago, totolili said:

    Here is one of the recent ones. The paint stripper melted the rivets and I lost the two brackets that held the headlights. Truck is being changed from light blue to mat green and black

    20230710_205742.jpg

    20230710_205731.jpg

    20230710_205841.jpg

    I may have the headlamp support brackets that go inside the grill.

    let me know if you need them.

  5. 16 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:

    I haven't studied this era so I'm hoping you guys can answer what year these are.

     

    At first glance I thought this might be the same year (assumed 1933/34) and even the same truck then I realized the cowls are different. 

    Guessing Daves is a 3/4 ton and the one in Des Moines was 1 ton or more?

     

     

    image.png.6f96e48aa0d660dd4bebda5cd0b078f3.png123456 (7).JPG

    All mine are 1/2 ton. The Red Cross is a 1 ton.

    then-one with the red wheels is a 3/4 ton ot larger.

    Ask any questions about these Humpbacks. I’ll do my best to answer.

    Dave

    IMG_3030.jpeg

  6. 3 hours ago, totolili said:

    hi Alan,

     

    my 38 has the splash guards and like you, one was bolted and one was rivetted. I don't have these engine guards and small center piece. Do you have a picture as where they go and what are the protecting? 

    Thanks,

    Anatole

    I may have the splash guards. I’ll take a look this weekend. Show pictures of your project please. We all love pictures.

    thanks

    Dave

    IMG_3030.jpeg

  7. On 4/18/2023 at 8:50 PM, Hemi Joel said:

    Hi, does anybody have a 46 to 50 straight 8 Chrysler engine they want to part with? I would be willing to buy a parts car if needed to get the engine.

    I'm located in Minnesota, but willing to travel a ways to get one. 

    Please contact me via email at hemi67GTX@yahoo.com. be sure to use my name Joel in the title of the email to get past my spam filter.

    Thanks

    Give me a call. I have a couple plus parts.

    19498_929860057034388_2988649411348572195_n.jpg

  8. 2 hours ago, johnworden1 said:

    On second thought.....Those look like rechromed  grills and the paint, if there was any, would have been stripped in the chroming process I think and possibly not replaced.  Does anyone have a grill with original chrome?   John

    IMG_6119.jpeg.0f7f0c6132373bd943018aa86f3e1dc1.jpeg

    IMG_3040.jpeg

    IMG_5642.jpeg

    IMG_5409.jpeg

    IMG_5390.jpeg

  9. 5 hours ago, Made In Michigan said:

    Problem solved. I jacked up the rear end and started it up, checked the belt, pulley, fan blade. Everything ran fine so I removed the driveshaft and took it to a specialist, they told me it was so far out of tune it couldn’t be fixed so they cut off the ends and welded them on a new tube and balanced it. $188. Just now went for a test run, got it up to 45 mph and it was all smooth sailing! 

    Had another customer with a 35 Dodge pickup. Went over with him and we went through the possibilities. He said it started when he hit a curb with his pass rear tire. Told him to jack it up and put an object on the ground and spin the wheel. It turned out to be a bent axle.

  10. 8 minutes ago, Alan Cutler said:

    Hi partner,

     

    You talking about the combo tail light and license plate bracket?

    On the Carb linkage, from the pedal to the carb linkage or choke and manual throttle linkage? 

     

    Hi

    From the bracket bolted to the engine to the carb.

    Yes on the combo. Is that one or two parts?

    Thanks

    Dave

  11. The Fords back in the 70s were losing a fan blade. It was a faulty Revit that was breaking-coming lose. Mechanics were getting injured from reaching over the front of the engine to rev the engine. Ford came out with a gauge to check the rivets.

    I never reach over to rev the engine anymore on a belt-driven fan blade.

    unnamed.jpg

  12. Rotate tires from back to front-front to back if it still vibrates after removing the drive shaft.

    Some of the vibrations over the years.

    bad fan blade

    engine

    transmission

    motor -trans mounts

    bent frame

    Clutch

    Flex plate

    torque converter

    driveshaft

    bent rear axle

    tires

    wheels

    front end parts worn

    master cylinder

    e brake

    brakes

    and a few more

     

  13. 3 minutes ago, Made In Michigan said:

    When I had it in the frame shop they balanced the front wheels and shaved the high spots on the tires to make  them perfectly round and corrected the toe in. That cured the death wobble, apparently the vibration was always there and I never noticed it because I couldn’t go faster than 25 without the front end shaking so violently (death wobble). Vibration feels like it’s under the floor. The slip joint is bolted to the sack of the hand brake I suppose it’s possible that could be out of balance but doubtful, I’m going to remove the driveshaft and do the tow thing at 45 mph. Gotta start somewhere 

    I have been a wrench most of my life. Owend full-service gas-repair gas stations in Detroit. We were better than most Mechanics working in dealers. That's because we worked on anything that you put fuel in. Go Karts to Semi trucks to heavy machinery. We even had dealers bring cars to us. We always had a great crew. Worked on cars starting with my dad at 8 years old in 1960.

    These are the things that are a challenge to diag.

    Vibration

    Overheating

    intermittent electrical shorts

    Drivability- this is the hardest one

     

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