Machiner 55

The original link wasn't working right. This should work OK now. R 134-a retrofit

http://forums.aaca.org/misc/309179-IMG_0105.JPG If you click on the link above you will see what "cargirl" is talking about. The photo shows what it looks like when the panel under the glove box is removed. Follow the multi colored wires to the right. Above them you will see a beige colored piece of tubing with a black plastic end on it. (You won't see this particular piece of tubing in your car. I'm just using it in this instance for reference because it is in this car, in this photo.) Immediately above that you will see a hex nut holding in place a black plastic bracket. That bracket is what's holding the ECM in it's "nest". If you want to take the ECM out. Remove the right hand side kick panel. Pull the carpeting and insulation out of the way (fold it back on itself pulling toward the center console. Remove the three wiring connectors from the ECM. (You must squeeze retaining tabs while pulling and wiggling the connector - not the wires. The tabs are blue on one side of the connector and either black or grey on the other.) Then remove the nut from the bracket. Proceed to pull the ECM down while wiggling, cussing, screaming every foul mouthed four or more letter words your mother would never let you say. Throw in some "help me now God"'s for good measure and maybe your knuckles will come out of this ordeal unscathed. Even though there is only the one nut securing the little #%&*$!! in place there are a couple of small rubber / plastic stubs on the perimeter of the ECM's case that help locate it in its nest. Plus, there are those wires there that you'll find yourself wrangling with. If you think it was easy getting it out .... You'll have even more fun getting it back in because, well... just because. If you're going to replace the one you already have, I suggest that you connect the replacement unit and let it just sort of hang there for a while to test it out before putting it back up under the dash. A replacement (refurbished) ECM that I recently installed was defective. Gave me a continious Service Engine Soon light as well as setting a persistent anti-knock code.(E043) So, I was glad that I didn't fully reinstall it. Good Luck!

Check this out: Retrofit to 134-a

My Son has worked at two different car dealerships during the past two years. One, a Dodge dealer and the other a GMC dealer. He says that the ASE certified technicians that service the vehicles at both dealerships swear by the BG products. They also make products for the trans. and cooling systems. I'm not endorsing these products, just relating what I'd heard. I recently had the experience of driving a 1989 Reatta that I'd just purchased from N.W. Indiana to Pittsburgh, PA. The car had been sitting for some time and the small amount of fuel remaining in the tank was questionable. I put in some "Sea Foam" additive, filled the tank and hit the road. The MPG readout an hour into the trip was showing a tad over 19mpg. An hour outside of Pittsburgh and the readout was reporting just over 26mpg. I guess that any of the additives mentioned here will do some good but, since the Techron stuff is practically free (minus postage and tax) I'm gonna pick up some of that.

Wally, Thank you very much for raising awareness of the brake issues and for providing access to the information. Every Reatta owner that frequents these pages is much better off due to your efforts.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Or "If you fiddle with anything long enough, it'll break". </div></div> Yah, I know... That's what happened to me.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Also note that my garage does not look like Chuck Parry's </div></div> I'm glad because Mr. Parry's garage was giving me a complex.

There is a product called "Goo Gone" An amber colored fluid in a clear plastic 8 - 10 ounce bottle. Used for removing adhesives and other sticky stuff. What ever you do don't confuse it with a product called "Goof Off" This stuff will melt/eat most plastics and you'll be sorry you ever tried it. Works great for removing paint from solid surfaces though.

Well dang, I woke up in the middle of the night wondering why someone would go through all the trouble of splicing into a vacuum line in the engine compartment and running a line through the firewall to a unit that already had a working vacuum line attached??????

Just yesterday I got involved in investigating the brake relays due to an intermittant yellow anti-lock light on my 89. After removing the relays from the bracket on the firewall I was able to pop out the coil/contact assembly from the shroud. While I had them apart, I conducted the tests as per the instructions at www.reatta.net. I also used some crocus cloth to brighten up the contact points. (One must be careful doing this as the mechanism is delicate. Good eye and steady hand required. I have one of each.) Must have done some good because I haven't seen the light since doing this. (I know there's a joke in there somewhere.) I decided to do the same on my 88. Couldn't pop those relays open. Also, the previous owner or some other in the past put some kind of "goop" on the tangs that plug into the wireing harness connectors and with heat and time the "goop" got hard and cruddy. I decided to finnish cleaning that mess up at a later date. But, in the mean time, I decided to take'er out for a spin around the block. WOW... talk about Mr. Toads Wild Ride! I think everyone who owns a Reatta ought to experience what it's like to drive one of these while in brake failure mode. It's a real eye opener. (Try this on a closed course track with safty team and life insurance paid up only.) On another note; <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> It's not my motto but seems to be how things go; If it ain't broke, work on it till it is. </div></div> My favorite is: "If it ain't broke... tweak it!"

Thank Goodness. Now I can finally go to sleep in peace without worrying about this anymore.

It appears that someone has re-engineered your vacuum system. Your latest photo attachment with the three red arrows shows a "Tee" in the vac line connected to the vacuum reservoir. I have an 88 and an 89 and neither of them have that "tee" in that location. If you have access to a FSM (Service Manual) or the online version at www.reatta.net you will find a vacuum schematic on page 9B-3 .. figure 3. in the section on the Cruise Control. As for the end of the vacuum line that you plugged with a screw, that is the line that is supposed to connect to the 90 degree fitting that I told you about in my last post. The black tubing that is currently connected to it is bogus and only God knows why it is there or where it goes but it doesn't look like the factory setup to me. Good Luck.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Next question: How did the hard drive know exactly when to fail? How do they know? Do the electronic gadgets talk to each other? As in, just as soon as you check in at the airline counter, does their computer get in contact with your dishwasher motor and say "Okay, he's gone, you can turn cherry red and fall into the basement now". </div></div> Exactly!!!!!!!!!!! The goal fo every inanimate object is to "mess" with humans. Once you come to understand this reality, you are well on your way to keeping pace and some times outwitting them. Machinery of any type are more skilled at contrivance than other objects. I speak from experience. Since a lad of 18 years to the present (32 years) I've worked on an assortment of can and end making machinery and have become convinced of the inanimates intelligence. Our current makes and models of equipment are logic processor and computer driven which makes them even more capable of intermittent and sometimes massive mayhem. There isn't a day that goes by that I'm not reminded of their wit and cunning at making a fool and a liar out of me and my associates. For example, "What's wrong and how long is that going to take?" asks the super. "Well... the Evershaft doesn't line up with the Bull-pin and it'll take about three hours to replace it and get it set up properly." Ten hours of downtime and a miriad of other parts later (which we probably didn't have in the store-room and had to be express delivered) the equipment is finally running. Now the boss thinks that either... 1.) you don't know what your talking about or that... 2.) you don't know what you are doing. Either way, it's bad. Concerning machinery of most any type: When it absolutely has to work... it will fail. Concerning parts availability: If you absolutly need it, it won't be available. Concerning Problems: It will be the item you overlooked or thought was OK because you just checked it yesterday that will turn around and bite you in the a*s. Oh, and if you haven't gathered... YES they DO talk to one another!

I see the Reatta Man is leaning towards the ECM (computer). He may be on to something. I recently had the "opportunity" to change out my ECM. The one in my 1989 was cooked. (That's an issue for another post that I'm working on. It will be under the thread heading of "Oil Level Sensor - or not") Erroneous outputs - erratic behavior etc. I put in a <span style="font-style: italic">new</span> (read, reconditioned) ECM that I purchased from AdvanceAuto and I was still getting a continuous "Service Engine Soon" light as well as a code E043. Performed all the diagnostics recommended in the FSM (is it <span style="font-weight: bold">Factory</span> or <span style="font-weight: bold">Field</span> Service Manual?) Anyway... indications were leading to a faulty Mem-Cal. (Dang, can't be that. Those are expensive!) so I took the ECM and Mem-Cal from my 88 and put in the 89. Service light gone and no more code E043! Put the 89 Mem-Cal in the 88 ECM. Still good! So my "New" ECM was defective! (Will wonders never cease?) It had a one year warranty so I returned it and got service with a smile. Helps to have you car there at their store and running with the "Brain" hanging out when you return their defective unit. Bolsters your argument. They ordered me another one which was received the next day. The replacement works just fine. (so far) So, the point of this story is that since you and Manik have a herd of Reatti roaming your piece of God's country you should lasso one of them, pop it's brain out (Tell it your only going to be borrowing it for a little while. They like it when your honest with them.) and put it in your trouble-maker and see what happens.

Awesome! You go Girl! You say that the cam sensor was replaced but you didn't mention whether or not the magnet was replaced as well. Was it?

To barra, <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Are Craftsman products the ones available at Sears? </div></div> Sorry barra, I didn't answer this the first time around. Yes ... Craftsman is the Sears store brand name. To Shelby. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> It seems I have spent half my life extracting broken Bolts and stripped nuts. </div></div> I feel your pain. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A pair of Vise Grip, penetrating Oil and a welding torch works a lot better. </div></div> I've spent half <span style="font-style: italic">my</span> life using this method and thought I'd give another method a try. Just another tool in the arsenal in the war against inanimate objects.

Hello barra, I am a mechanic but I don't work in the automotive repair field other than my own cars. I've never seen these before until mobius mentioned it in one of his posts. I googled it to find the photo. The text that accompanied the attachment doesn't say that they accept a ratchet but they might. They will certainly accept an open/box end wrench, a crescent wrench or a socket attached to a ratchet.

See attachment. Gonna hafta gets me some of theez. Thanks mobius. Bolt Out Need to remove a damaged fastener? Craftsman can help with a range of well-made tools. Bolt-out kits consist of five to 13 sockets with spiral flute interiors that grip the damaged head of a bolt or nut and allow you to turn it off without much fuss. One 5-piece kit (52160) will remove eight different sizes of nuts and bolts (3/8-, 7/16-, 1/2-, 9/16- and 5/8 in., and 11-, 14- and 16mm). Each socket is made from a tough high-carbon steel so it can stand up to multiple removals. The kit costs about $20.

detrart, I'm not sure what it is exactly you're trying to piece together so I can't suggest an adhesive for that part of your query. As for attaching the mirror glass, most auto parts stores sell a double sided adhesive tape expressly for that purpose. I've used it myself. Just make sure that you have the mirror exactly where you want it over the base before touching them together because once you make contact you'll probably break the mirror trying to reposition it.

I dont know how to link to another page on this site but if the web address below works, you may get some answers to your questions. http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...rev=#Post183144

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> We returned to Texas last night. If you had a chance to attend Batavia and didn't, you should turn in you Reatta badge. </div></div> Badges..........? We don't need no stinking <span style="font-style: italic">BADGES!</span>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I stole 'em. </div></div> Cool.

Very nice. Where can we get'em?

That's not quite what I meant but, I kinda like those guys. Where'd you get'em?

Hello Mobius, First of all, you need to understand that you are putting yours as well as others lives on the line by doing a substandard brake job. You can cross wires, cross threads or cross dress while working on a car and normally no bodily harm will come to anyone. But, muck up a brake job and it could be "Adios Amigo!" Second, if you are going to be your own mechanic (techncian) you need to get a hold of a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Google it or search Ebay. Probably run you between $50.00 and $100.00. Because you're probably wanting to get this done ASAP... for under $20.00 you can get a: "Haynes Repair Manual" (Book # 19020) for Buick, Oldsmobile & Full-size models. 1985 thru 2002 w/ Front-wheel drive. Check AutoZone or AdvanceAuto (real store or online) Section #9 of the manual deals with both disk and drum brakes. Section #9, page 20 (9-20) deals with bleeding. The FSM for the 1988 Reatta says the front brakes can be bled manually. Not sure if it is the same for a '91. There is an online manual at www.reatta.net From the home page click on the "Documentation" link. You should also peruse the "Brakes" link. Now, I don't know of others experience but, mine has been that the bleeder screw has "welded" itself to the caliper housing necessitating the need to drill it out (Not recommended for the inexperienced or the faint of heart.) and or the piston is hung . Again, we're talking about the brakes, the thing that is going to keep you from T-Boning somebody, so it's gotta be right the first time and every time you need it. Sooooooo... AdvanceAuto www.partsamerica.com has unloaded calipers (no pads) for $24.61 ea. and rotors (from China) for $15.94 ea. and you say you already have the shoes. So for $40.55 plus tax (per axle), (plus shoes) plus a bottle or two or three for bleeding perposes (brake fluid - not beer. But now that I'm thinking about it ... maybe you WILL need a couple of bottles of beer for bleeding perposes..... sometimes I crack myself up!!!) you can reasonably expect to have a working set of front brakes that'll last you awhile. (Price quoted does not include the cost of beer or Band-Aids. Nor does it include whatever you're going to pay the person that helps you bleed the brakes. There are one-man systems but, what fun is that?) I'm not trying to step on EDBSO's excellent disertation but, you may be like me and need more "Pitchers"