Machiner 55

Thanks for the links. Between this link http://www.gov.state.la.us/Press_Release_detail.asp?id=976 and this one of a timeline of events posted by kennyw http://www.thinkprogress.org/katrina-timeline only the blind would be unable to see who dropped the ball. Factual data of who knew what and when they knew it overides emotional rhetoric every time.

Thanks for jogging my memory. Was it Zep's ZOSO album?

My Red/Tan "88" has this affliction. Is it only the cars that are painted red that have this problem on the front fenders?

This combination works well for removing the metal from insde the exhaust flange. [color:\\"red\\"] See attachment.

Oh happy Days! My rebuttal to the "Traitors" clip in "Quickly" was in print this morning. America... What a country! But... I'd better be careful of my emails and mindful of those clicks I hear while I'm talking on the phone. If anyone's interested, I'll take a 16".

I hope F14Crazy doesn't mind my answering this post but here goes... E041 is a fault with the Cam Sensor Circuit. Pg. 8D1-50 in the [color:\\"red\\"] FSM . This fault usually occurs when the Cam Sensor magnet disintegrates and the pickup doesn't see it any longer. Look here >>> http://bellsouthpwp.net/p/a/padgett46/cammag.htm E044 is a fault with the Oxygen Sensor Circuit. Pg. 8D1-56 of the [color:\\"red\\"]FSM . Could be bad sensor, wiring etc. E034 is a fault with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit. Pg. 8D1-44 of the [color:\\"red\\"] FSM . Again, it could be the sensor, wiring, it's dirty etc. If you don't have a [color:\\"red\\"]Factory [color:\\"red\\"]Service [color:\\"red\\"]Manual, look here >>> www.reatta.net. Under the column on the left side of the page titled "Please Select:" Select "Documentation" or click this >>> http://www.reatta.net/docs.html for the online manual. You'll have to fill out a form and give some information but, it's a small price to pay for access to all that knowledge. Good Luck.

No offense taken here. I'm with you on this one. In our local paper we have what they refer to as "Quickly". Silly name but it makes for some very interesting reading. It's akin to the letters to the editor section but you don't have to submit your name , address or anything. It's an anonymous post. Someone wrote in saying they were tired of all the Bush-bashing and that they should bring back public hangings in the town square for all of the "traitors" (the Bush-bashers) I responded by saying that would be OK with me so long as we were able to publicly hang all of the faciests as well. I even sent them a photo of a duel noose gallows (see attached). I've yet to see that one in print... maybe tomorrow. I'll let you know.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know nothing more. </div></div> Ahh come on Padgett, don't be so hard on yourself. I'm sure you know lots of stuff.

I don't know if anyone has ever checked those crumbs but, if you dig out one of the larger pieces and bite down on it you will find that the material is not hard like the "rollers" everyone is installing. I think the engineer that designed the drive mechanism wanted a flexible material inside the large plastic gear to give a little and absorb some of the shock when opening and closing. I'm searching for a suitable material that will not deform too much when compressed and be somewhat flexible down to temps of -20*. Will advise when I find it.

All depends on how elaborate you want to be and how much time you want to spend and equipment you have access to. I have three ideas. 1.) With a stick or TIG welder, tack a 3/32 stainless rod to the exposed end of the extractor then bend the rod 90* (perhaps bend it before...whatever works) a few inches above the weld. Now you have what looks like an allen wrench sticking out. turn it to remove the extractor. 2.) With a Dremel tool, die grinder or similar, grind the lobe that has the stuck screw untill the screw and extractor are exposed enough to pick them out. Then have someone heliarc the lobe, building it up to somewhere near the original shape. File it and or Dremel it so that it looks like the other two lobes, then drill and tap a hole for the screw. Spray paint it black. 3.) Abandon the extractor removal idea and fashion a clamp as shown in the attachment. Just my .02 cents.

With a name like "Stimpy" you're bound to get a response.

Everybody and his brother are going to use the events down south as an excuse to jack up the price on everything, not just petroleum products. Some of it will be justified but, most of it won't.

Outstanding photos. Thanks for posting.

Si. Go to your "My Home" and check for a PM from me.

You'll probably want to do something like this......... http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/aviation/1559477.html

The fix, ala Padget, is a piece of cake. I've done it. I even had the opportunity to do it the "right" way after the fix. I had the front cover off to replace the tensioner and I left the JB weld fix alone. Couldn't bear the thought of replacing the magnet with a new one with only those puny little plastic legs to hold it in place while the sprocket spins around at 2500 +/- rpm. So I left it alone. (Side note... Let me tell ya, the bracketing for the power steering pump leaves a lot to be desired!) Anyway, if you live anywhere between Gary and South Bend, IN. let me know. I'll help you do it.

I wasn't sure who Madeleine Stowe was so I Googled her. (Sounds somewhat naughty don't it?) Anyway, no conflict here.... Reatta it is!

Thank you.

Here's an option. I copied this from an earlier post rather than typing it out myself. Even if you're not interested you should still click on the link just to check out the little Robo-Dude. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Dear Maark, I think the place you are referring to is Rex Service in Illinios. Their website is: http://www.Rexservice.com/ However, please realize that that they only repair the CRT, not the Touch Screen. (Until recently, I did not realize they were two separate parts.) The CRT is what lights up and shows you all the vital functions of the car ? it basically the same as a computer monitor. The Touch Screen is a special overlay that is in front of the CRT. When you hit the hard (around perimeter) or soft (on screen) buttons you are touching the Touch Screen. If your CRT lights up and displays information but you cannot navigate around then the CRT it is working fine and it is your Touch Screen that needs replacing. If the CRT is dark and does not light up at all, it could be your CRT or your CRT controller. Contact either Jim Finn at: jfinn@cpinternet.com or Mike of Reattadudes at: orders@buickreattaparts.com or (480) 239-2788. They are our parts experts and if you describe the problem they can hook you up with a solution. Hope that helps. </div></div>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> A lot of us already have reservations for next summer in Minnesota, </div></div> Who, What, Where, When....? I already know "Why". Thanks.

Sometimes they is and sometimes they isn't. In the original post the Cincy Walt says: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, should I replace the hole system or just the cable? There is some wear and the armiture looks like it could be replaced. </div></div> Sounds like maybe he may be leaning toward replacement of the whole thing. I don't know what type of budget or skill level he has. I'm just offering an alterntive. Maybe the unit from a car at the salvage yard doesn't have as many cycles on it. Maybe it was some old guys Buick and he hardly ever turned on the radio. Or maybe it comes from a car owned by some kid who never turns the radio off just so he can see the Kewel antenna go up and down. It's number of cycles not chronological age that determins failure rate. Anyway... Yo lays yo money down and yo takes yo chances. I gotta get off here. I gots some Darlin rollers to make.

Thank you very much!

I'd have to consult my bankruptcy attorney first and he's gone for the weekend. Then there's all that waiting and stuff involved when ordering. Besides, just buying them would be waaaayyyy toooo easy.

Does anyone know the exact dimentions for the O.D. and length of the Derlin rollers? Measurement from a dial indicator or micrometer in .000 of an inch would be great.

For the price of the replacement parts for the one you have you could probably get a whole other power antenna unit at a salvage yard. If you have a "you pull it" yard in your area, take yours with you and have them mark it as yours, and use it to compare units. Look in their Buick or GM product area of their yard. I did this while trying to find a replacement mast at the local auto parts stores. I think they wanted about $18.00 for just the mast. I spent $25.00 for a complete salvage unit. Good luck.