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Posts posted by bb1970

  1. I ran 235/70/15 on a set of stock rims. They rubbed the frame at full lock turning. No fender rub on a lowered car. I would never lift a car to make a tire fit. I do like the wheel and tire combo on your car. Sounds like the back spacing on the Supremes might be the hurdle here. Measure the back space on the front wheels. See if there are any options there. Are you running spacers on the front? Great color by the way.

  2. Do '63s not have the set screw where the visor shaft attaches? On my '65 I came up with a fix at Sonic. Having a milkshake with the family. I took the set screw out. Broke a small piece off of a tooth pick put it on the end of the screw and put it back in. Problem solved.

  3. I too try to drive mine in the winter months. When it's dry. I couldn't get the car out of the barn with snow on the ground if I wanted to. I just make sure the coolant is up to par. As far as fuel. I'm hit or miss with stabil. If I remember I use it. I do use ethanol free fuel. I do have a hard time with rodents. We live in a rural area. My barn is 400 ft. from the house. So it can be a challenge avoiding the field mice.

  4. I bought the wheels at a local swap meet for $175. I almost fell over when I asked the guy what he wanted for them. He said $200. I countered with $150. We settled on $175. The caps are a e-bay purchase. NOS Dynamark spinners. I never heard of the company. They cost $29.99 plus $14.95 shipping. They came to the door in a box. Each cap wrapped in a So-Cal news paper from 1985. Not bad for $220. But then new tires. Plus spacers. I had lug nuts. So just under $600 total. Beats the price of new wires. But used wires can be a dicey proposition. I looked for two years.

  5. BTW. Thanks for the kind words for the car. White wall tires are getting kinda tough to find. Also I just ordered a tie rod end and rear shocks from Rock Auto for $72 shipped. My local O'reilly's wanted $50 for the tie rod and $24 ea. for the shocks. That would be about $106 after tax for the same exact parts.

  6. Did you try switching the wheels front to back to see if the vibration goes away?

    I did switch wheels from front to rear. I am wondering if it is a tie rod problem on the right front. I have a little play in it. I spoke with a guy with Rally America. They deal in a lot of wire wheels. He suggested getting the drums turned. And addressing any front end issues. As truing a wire wheel is about $200 ea. plus shipping cost to California. That sounds like it is worth a shot. I can't seem to find a wheel shop in K.C. that fools with old wires. I even called a few motorcycle shop. No dice.

  7. Hey all, Here's the problem. I put some wire wheels on my '65. I now get a vibration while braking. No vibration while driving. And I didn't have any vibration before the wheel change. Could I have warped a drum when I torqued the wheels down (95lbs.) ?? Bill

  8. I think it is IMPOSSIBLE to keep hot air from coming into the passenger compartment. I have put foam around the column. A boot around the shifter linkage. Silicone on every crack and hole I can find in the fire wall. Completely disabled the heater core. And still I get hot air. Saving pennies as we speak to buy an aftermarket A/C system. I can't wait to rip out the antique unit with all of the snake nest vacuum that controls it. I might re-enact the printer scene from the movie Office Space when that day comes.

  9. Here's what I did for cup holders in my Riv. The front is a plastic cup holder from a boat held in place with a wide velcro strip. I couldn't stand drilling holes in the side of the console. The rear is from a Geo Prism. It is small but will hold a can or smallish fountain drink.





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