GLong

This photo was taken on Friday morning, after a night-long rain. At the time, the sky was getting bright, it looked like it might clear up for a while, but it started to rain within an hour. Nice 'Box of Rain' for sale.. Greg L

I arrived early Tuesday morning, and had a good day selling and shopping. Both Tuesday and Wednesday were excellent days for shopping and enjoying the wonderful weather, and meeting old friends. Thursday norning had a bit of drizzle and light rain, but Thursday afternoon it rained. But by previous years standards, it wasn't too bad. There was very little wind, the temperatures were quite pleasant and there was NO MUD!! Hershey MUD is legendary, and I certainly don't miss it. I think with the fully paved swap meet fields, many shoppers seemed to forget that rain itself is a challenge. I forgot to bring good waterproof boots, and waded around in sneakers. l have not bothered with waterproof boots over the last few years, because I really wore them for the MUD not thinking about the water. I think the biggest the number of vendors closing up and leaving and the number of shoppers that didn't bother staying is an indication of us being spoiled by many years of relatively nice weather. Maybe next year many will come better prepared for adverse weather. I stayed and shopped all day Friday, and did well, it was a shame that so many vendors left early. I was SURE that the show field would be a mess, but I was wrong, just a few places where both vehicle and foot traffic had kneaded the wet ground into mud.. but the field was in surprisingly good condition. The biggest problem with the show was the number of no-show cars.. lots of empty spaces. I only stayed for about an hour or so, then got on the road for my 9 hour drive home. As always, I really enjoyed the swap meet and bought plenty. Looking forward to next year. Greg L

I checked on the specs for the '28 buick. The rear axle ratio was either 4.72:1 or 5.1:1. The engine was rated at 2800 rpm.. you can do some math, but I've had a '27 car, same rpm range, similar power, and 4.89:1 gears,, and it liked 35-40mph. anything faster the engine was really humming along, and I didn't think it was 'happy' Greg L

Hi Carol, Hershey can be a bit of a zoo, but once here it is automotive heaven.. at least for me.. I will suggest that you drive several cars of the type and vintage that you are contemplating buying.. just to make sure they are comfortable or at least not intimidating to drive. Some of the older cars are pretty tough to drive, some are very much like a modern car. or at least a car from the 50's and 60's. I used to do purchase inspections, they were a full mechanical inspection, all four brake drums off, inspect the brakes for wear, leaks etc. The engine had a compression test done, and some water was drained, and some oil was drained, both into glass jars, to inspect. Magnetic plugs from the transmission and rear end inspected. The minor paint chips, fabric wrinkles, stains etc are part of the character of the car, but the mechanical stuff is what will make your driving safe and uneventful. Good luck with the search and inspection.. Greg L

Did I read that this touring body was just unbolted from the rear of the car? Nothing cut or sawn off ?? I'd shop around for someone with the same car, and see if you can get a really good look at the rear body section.. You might just be able to replicate the rear body section and have a touring car really quick. I'm really glad you got this car, I was feeling a bit guilty that I didn't offer to bring the car to Hershey for you, I just wasn't sure I could commit to getting my trailer empty and go get the car for you last week.. then you found the car sold.. before you secured transportation. I was feeling bad that IF I had said i'd go get it for sooner, then it would not have gotten away, BUT:I guess you were 'destined' to own the car. It made itself available for you a second time.. I'd just lubricate everything, don't forget the valve guides, carburetor moving parts etc.. i'd fill the carb float bowl with pure gas and 'sea-foam' to soften and help clean it. Good luck with the project. keep us entertained.. er. informed.. Greg L

The fact that the car will idle with partial choke means that the idle mixture is too lean. Clean the carb again, focusing on the idle circuits. As mentioned above, check for vacuum leaks. Greg L

You are making the assumption that they will recognize run-on sentences, misspelling, and bad grammar when they attempt to proof-read their text. Greg L

I'd mix up some acetone/ATF or Laquer thinner/ATF mix and use a spray gun, cover the whole chassis, springs, etc.. It will do no harm, it will soften surface grease/dirt, and penetrate the fasteners. If you drain the gasoline tank, I'd rinse it with clean gas, and look inside to see if it is coated with gum and varnish. If not, refill with ethanol free gas, or stabliized gas.. If it is all gummed up, put a few gallons of MEK [methyl ethyl Ketone] in the tank, and let it set, it will soften the gum and aid in cleaning the tank when the time comes.. Greg L

A quick update: The invaluable copies of literature have helped me get the 1915 Chandler Touring on the road. I really like this car, it's peppy, steers very nice, the body and chassis are nice and tight. The clutch and transmission work well. I'm only short a few items to make the car complete. I hope to see several Chandlers on Friday at Hershey. Greg L

I have no idea why my brain, connected to my fingers switched from Buick to Dodge.. I guess I'd better watch my self a bit closer... :-) Maybe I had been reading a different thread about a Dodge ?? who knows.. Greg L

Dwight: I see the door latch striker on the body, so it does look like a cut down touring car.. all the rest looks pretty good. It will be fun for me to try to get it running, it's fun to wake up Rip Van Winkle Greg L

The prices might be high on average, but I've seen some of the best bargains on cars and parts EVER at Hershey. That's why I make the 9 hour pilgrimage each year for the last 25 years. You might also see the high priced very-well restored cars, to set a top price limit for your search. I would not listen to 'the locals' I'd go check it out in person. I've seen many more overpriced items on ebay, craigslist, and at local swap meets than at Hershey.. People take things to Hershey to sell, not set on a table and show. Just my experiences. Good luck in your search. Greg

There are asking prices and selling prices.. and then there are the reported purchase prices that is told to the state when the car is titled and taxes paid on the purchase price.. I like to reply when someone says that there is one on, Ebay, Craigslist, AutoShopper, etc going for $$ XX,XXX. My reply is 'Asking and Getting are two VERY different things'.. I find the price guides to be low most of the time.. BUT personal knowledge about the make, model, mechanics, problems, and costs of any car is in YOUR best interest. What sambarn said is absolutely your next step.. GO TO HERSHEY !! That's only about an hour drive for you! [9 hours for me] Go each day, look the cars over in the car corral, go look through the swap meet, you can find book dealers there to buy your books and guides.. And most important you can meet and talk with people who own the cars, or did own the cars you are interested in. Best of Luck!! Maybe you will find exactly the car you want at Hershey !! There is NO better place to see and learn about old cars !! Greg L

That roadster looks pretty complete, would it deserve a new rear body section, and be restored as a roadster ?? Or is the wood all rotted away? Or, my memory is 'jingling' didn' t Dodge use all steel body construction? or was that in a later year ?? Glad you got the car, and thanks for the additional photos.. Is the engine stuck ?? It would be fun to just get it running as is.. if that is possible. Good luck with your 'new' project. Greg L

There are plenty of 'bad apples' in every hobby. The trick is to let everyone know who those people are, and let them get 'a reputation' that they deserve, and earned by being dishonest. Every car I sell, I sell like it's being bought by my next door neighbor, or my sister. This way if anything goes wrong, I did my best and I have no problems with my conscious. I bought a car out of a car corral in Auburn once, it was missing, had issues, the seller told a story that 'kinda-sorta' made sense as an explanation for the missing engine.. the price was low enough that even if the engine was bad and had to be rebuilt, I didn't care. The engine issue ended up being an easy fix. AND, the 'story' the seller told me proved to be all BS. But i didn't care. The next year at Auburn, i see the same guy selling another car,, he recognizes me, and looks away, doesn't want to talk with me.. I knew then for sure that 'the story' was all made up, pure BS, just to pawn off the car on another person.. I had the last laugh.. When I sort of cornered him, he had to talk with me, I told him what fixed the car, and how easy it was.. and I told him the evidence i found that what he told me about the car was not true.. I left it at that.. I think he got the message.. Anyway. I hope maybe you'll find another car that sparks your interest and you stay with the hobby, it's not likely to get out of your blood anyway, you'll still have interest in cars.. that just doesn't go away.. Just remember, the saying: 'Buyer Beware' has been around for a LONG time, and it pertains to ANY purchase, not just cars. Best of luck. Greg L

Here is a thread about mechanical brakes on a '32 Buick, not the same car, but message #7 and #8 have links to the brake manual and a CD of the brake manual I've referred to. http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-brake-adjustment-318079.htm

The brakes are mechanical, and need to have all the levers, shafts, pivots, springs etc, well lubricated, and in the proper locations or angles so that they are providing the best 'geometry' for maximum leverage to push the shoes into the drum. The next thing is that the brake shoes might have grease from the wheel or axle seals on the lining, this obviously will reduce the brake friction. The brake shoes might have been relined with modern hard brake lining material. This modern material does not have as much friction as 'soft' or 'woven' brake lining.. I'd take a wheel and drum off both front and rear, and see what the condition is of the drums, shoes, linkage etc. There is a reprint of a brake manual that I have used for reference many times, it is : "Vintage Veteran BRAKE Repair Manual" By C Perham. I have seen a copy of an original manual, it was printed in the mid '30's, and had all the early mechanical brake info, as well as later juice brakes and info on the many versions of power brakes, both mechanical and juice [hydraulic] . I would shine up the paint for now, it looks very presentable from the photos, and concentrate on getting the mechanical portion of the car up to speed. The interior might survive with just inexpensive 'generic' seat covers. At least for a while.. What I'm suggesting is to get the car roadworthy, drive it a lot, see if for YOU it's a keeper, if not, then you don't have a ton of additional money invested in the car which you might not get back.. Drive it, enjoy it.. and then if you really like the car, a nice re-rag o fthe interior and a paint job can be something to look forward to. Go to a bunch of shows, there will be lot's of wonderful restorations, but the real original cars are still very attractive and well appreciated. A car can only be original once. Once 'restored' it's going to be compared to all the other restored cars, and how much the owner spent on the restoration.. But an original is just that, either very poorly preserved or very well preserved, your car looks like it qualifies for 'very well' preserved. I'd keep it that way if you can. I looked on Ebay, didn't find the brake manual I have, but there were two of them for auction a month or so ago. Maybe the AACA library has copies ?? Anyway, when you 'get into' your new car, learn it's mechanisms, quirks and good points, you will appreciate your car much more. Do you have some photos of the rest of the interior ?? Greg L.

Congratulations !! I hope you will post lots of photos.. Greg L

That's too nice a truck to ruin by hot-rodding it with modern engine and interior. Save it for a restorer. The original trucks are fine trucks and should stay that way. [my opinion obviously] At my local cruise night, there are many modified, hot-rodded older pickup trucks, but the crowds are around the dusty, dirty, fresh from the barn original trucks and cars. There are plenty of trucks with no interior, and no engine that would be an acceptable base to modernize. I think the price mentioned of $6K is about right, that's to keep it original and want it that way for the value of originality. Greg L

Look closely, you should see a ring of knurling around the upper edge of the cup. It will then unscrew.. if it is a pry off type you should see a spring and hinge on the top of the cup.. For the vintage of your car, I'm pretty sure it will be a threaded cup. Greg L

The only time to buy at an auction is if you know the car make and model you are bidding on very well, had a chance to look it over and under, start it and at least drive it forward and backward a car length or two. I like to buy at auctions, every now and then, a car is sold with no or low reserve, and there just wasn't anyone in the crowd that was interested in the car, so it sells cheap. Otherwise, buying from the owner is the best way, you get the car's history, and get to drive it a lot more. I suggest you find all the local car club chapters, Ford, Chevy, etc etc. join several clubs, look through the club rosters. you may be surprised to find many old car collectors near you, who would be glad to assist you in finding a good car, and sharing their experiences. As for restoring a car, I'd follow the advice given previously to buy an older restoration. The work has been done, it's no longer a garage or trailer queen, it is now a nice driver. Buy one and drive it and enjoy it. The only way to find 'your' car is to go out and shop, drive and look and listen.. You may buy and sell a few cars, and change makes and models, but you will be learning all the time.. And knowledge is the key to owning and keeping an old car on the road, and key to enjoying the car. Good luck with your pursuit. Fill in your profile, let us know where you are located, you may get some really good recommendations.. For one: if you are in the Northeast, head over to Hershey Pennsylvania for the AACA national meet the 8th thru 12th of October, a very large 'car corral' of cars for sale, and a very large swap meet to see what can be had for old cars.. There are events virtually every weekend just about all year long.. lots of places to learn about cars. Greg L

Depending on your tastes, a lot of cars that are very original, and in good condition can be kept 'as is' and are very appreciated by most who see and drive them. From the photo of the car on the trailer, a good wash and wax, maybe a few chips touched up and the exterior is good to go. Show us some photos of the interior and dashboard. and of course the engine compartment. As mentioned in above posts, driving a car with 1934 steering, brakes and suspension, but that is part of the charm of an old car.. Mechanical brakes if properly adjusted work fine, the steering can be pretty good if kept maintained and lubricated. A modern set of vintage looking tires will make a huge difference in the driving characteristics. I'd put an acceptable set of seat covers on it, if needed, give it a good maintenance, tune up, all lubricants. A set of tires if they are cracked or really petrified. Then take the car out and drive it. As you find quirks, sort them out, make the car as original and as good as you can keep it. Good luck with the car, please post more photos when you can. Greg L

Hi again Tom. I did a quick search on Harbor Freight's website. They have the same bead breaker I've had for many years. Here it is: http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html

Hi Tom, post a photo of the carb on the Regal. I can then see if one of the odd-ball or orphan carbs I have would bolt on. Or email me a photo of the carb on the engine. Greg L

Thanks to a very helpful Chandler collector, I have a photo copy of a 1915 owners manual, parts and price list as well as some copies of sales literature. The parts and price list is especially helpful, it has many very good cut-away drawings of major components. I now have a good drawing of the air pump built into the #6 intake valve lifter. I can comfortably take it apart now, and get it pumping air to the fuel tank. I also now know that I can get the rear wheel and brake drum off the car to inspect the brakes with out having to use a hub puller. The axle is a full floating design. So I will be able to inspect brakes and adjust them soon. So i have a lot of work to do over the next few day.. I hope to drive the car again in a day or two. Greg L