GLong

The rapid rise in indicated temperature does make the temp indicator suspect, as mentioned above, check the temperature with a known good thermometer or infra-red sensing thermometer 'gun'. If you confirm that the engine is getting hot, then I suggest the following: Open the radiator cap and look inside, you should see the water circulating. If it is circulating, it's not the water pump. The most common cause of over heating in cars of this vintage is an accumulation of rust scale in the top tank of the radiator. The rust scale blocks water flow down the radiator tubes, leaving the cooling capacity of the radiator severely limited. The easiest way to clear this rust scale out is to remove the radiator and back flush it. It can be back flushed on the car, but it can be a bit awkward and messy. Once the rust scale is removed, install a 'Gano Filter' in the top radiator hose, or use a 'footie' woman's hose as a filter in the top hose, stuff the toes-dnd of the 'footie' into the top radiator inlet tube, and wrap the open ankle end over the end of the pipe, and slide the upper radiator hose over the pipe, holding the 'footie' in place . Periodicly remove and clean the filter or the 'footie' You will be amazed at how much rust scale is captured. If the radiator severely clogged, a radiator shop can clean it. Let us know what you find. GregL

To get a stuck oil pan off a crankcase, often a heat gun is needed to soften the gasket around the perimeter of the pan. Very carefully use a thin putty knife to work between the pan and crankcase, eventually as you work your way around the perimeter of the pan, it will give up, and it will pop free. Just take your time, use several thin putty knives and gasket scrapers, it will come off. GLong

If it's a sticky valve, remove the spark plugs, use a light and a bent piece of wire to follow the valves, rotate the engine slowly, with a crank or socket on the front crank nut/bolt.. when each valve is open use your favorite oil/penetrant to soak the valve stem of the open valve, do this for all valves. Rotate the engine some more,, then run it again. I'm not sure from your description that it's in the valve train. But just keep eliminating possible noise-making possibilities and eventually you will find the noise.. GLong

Well, it's now on the way to MY 'antique shop' . AKA: my showroom of hobby cars and memorabilia. I thought it was a very nice sign, and of the right vintage for my cars.. '10's, 20's and 30's. GLong

I think this is a sign from the 20's, due to the white tire color. This sign mounts on a pole or in a doorway, it is two-sided porcelain. The tire appears to be a balloon tire, so mid 20's ? Anyone know what decade it would be from? Thanks. GLong

Sounds like the disc is too thick, do you have a factory spec for a new clutch disc? Many of the early cars had relatively thin lining on the disc. Many clutch disc get relined with too-think friction material. Readjusting the clutch would not be my first idea to try. Check with the supplier of the clutch assembly. Glong

Glad to hear it,, touring in Tennessee with out of adjustment brakes is not for the faint-of-heart !! GL

All the above is very good advice. Here is my take on the subject of a first 'classic' car. Since you mention that you don't know much about cars, then I see this acquisition of a '50's car as a great way to learn about the older and much simpler cars of that era. Find a local AACA chapter, find a local mechanic, get involved. When something needs to be done on your 'new' car, don't just farm it out to have it done.. get involved, do the work with supervision, and an explanation of why you are doing whatever you are doing. Learning about the car under the paint and chrome will greatly increase your appreciation of the car, the hobby, and the differences between the various makes and models. Drive 'em all, get to know 'em. You will love 'em all that much more. Best of luck in your pursuit of your first 50's car. Greg L.

An oil pump can be checked for wear, too much clearance and scores. If the pump passes these checks, reassemble the engine and take it to a better mechanic. As mentioned, a direct reading oil pressure gauge should have been used to check to for adequate pressure. Hydralic lifters get clogged with crud and sludge, and need to be removed and cleaned, or replaced. I doubt the engine needs a rebuild.

Run a 2/0 welding wire cable with soldered ends from the battery ground to starter mounting bolt. If the starter is healthy, this will fix most slow cranking issues. Converting to 12v will only hide a problem, temporarily.

Leave the ooolant level about 2" below the top of the tank, there MUST be someplace for the coolant to expand. There is always a rise in coolant temperature and volume when an engine is shut down after a run, there are lots of parts of an engine that are above boiling temperatures, like the head around the exhaust ports. These areas shed their heat to the now, non circulating water, and it expands a lot.. It is not uncommon to have an engine dump coolant after a few minutes following a shutdown. Most cars/engines find a 'happy level' that the system will maintain, often this coolant level appears pretty low, maybe only a 1/4" of coolant over the top of the radiator tubes, but this is where the system maintains itself..Many older cars had notes on the radiator or in the manual to allow a large air space for coolant expansion. If you can find a discrete spot to install a recovery tank, I'd do it, but otherwise just let the car/engine tell you where it wants to maintain it's coolant level.. Hope this helps. Greg L

A typical car will have the ground cable be short, going to the closest body or frame part, and often a flat braided cable. This braided cable does NOT conduct current as well as a piece of copper 2/0 welding cable. Many new 'original equipment' flat braided cables are of very poor quality and will get hot, which is an indication of the braided cable having too much resistance to conduct cranking amperage.. And in addition to the above, the short braided cable is often just long enough to reach the chassis or nearby metal body part. In an old car, the frame is rarely a good conductor of electricity. Rust under the cable bolt/nut, rust behind riveted cross members, rust under the starter where it is mated to the engine and bellhousing,, all add up to a lot of resistance. I highly recommend making an additional ground cable from 2/0 welding cable, and run this dedicated ground from the battery cable clamp to a mounting bolt on the starter-to-belhousing connection. Make sure there is no paint under the cable end.. Solder the ends on the cable. There is a reason that wires are made from copper, inspite of the price.. that's because copper conducts electricity much better than steel and cast iron, or aluminum. I've added this additional ground cable to several 20's and 30's 6v cars, and the increase in cranking speed is quite noticeable. Greg L

The notches look like they ride on a roller. Does this car have a cowl vent ? This looks like a part of the linkage to open and close a cowl vent. GLong

I'm working on a 1915 Chandler 5 passenger touring , I have zero literature for the car. The information for mechanical items is very limited on the internet. Can anyone provide either photocopies or digital scans/copies of an owners manual? Did Chandler provide an illustrated parts manual like some car manufacturers ?? If so are there any copies available ?? Has anyone collected Service Bulletins that Chandler Dealers would have received from the factory ?? Any literature, manuals etc or references to where to find them would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg

If the timing is correct, the engine should fight back against the starter if the timing is fully advanced when trying to start the car. An old coil can run fine at low rpm, and not be able to create enough spark to run at higher rpm, it acts almost like a governor, limiting rpm and power. Try another 6v coil to see if there is any difference. GLong

Hello, I may be interested in some or most of these Pierce parts. I see you are located in Livonia.. I'm just south of Flint. And I'm at DTW airport several times a month. I'd like to stop by and see the parts. or view some photos of them. My email is LsFarm@earthlink.net Thanks, Greg L