Jump to content

c49er

Members
  • Content Count

    2,012
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by c49er

  1. On 11/23/2020 at 4:30 PM, JFranklin said:

    Stay 6 Volt unless there is a specific reason to change. An electric pump will get the car started faster on cold starts and after sitting for a while. They can be set up just to add a boost if needed. It is easier on the starting motor if the gas is already up to the carburetor. My '48 Plymouth needed the missing heat shield replaced to solve the same problem of hard starts when hot. They had heat shields before we got stuck with ethanol laced gasoline.

    I have two eight cylinder T&C's and a couple other eight Chryslers.

    They all crank and start fine on six volts.

    Proper heavy 2/0 battery cables, a good starter, quality ignition parts and a really good group two or.........I prefer the group four six volt battery as it's 900+ cranking amps ....way more than the group two at about 600 cca.

    The group fours are also a little bigger and require slight tray and hold down modification but last up to six plus years for me.

    Group two's max of three+ years.

    All my Chrysler eight cars always start fine.

    JMO.

  2. On 8/20/2014 at 6:14 AM, hddennis said:

    Can you smell asbestos when you use it, because if you can you are ingesting it. If you can't you have the only one built that didn't leak dust out of the bag.

    Howard Dennis

    I'm still alive six years later!

    • Haha 1
  3. Make sure the replacement new mounts are fairly soft rubber....fingernail should easily push into the rubber.

    Old hard rubber mounts or even new replacement mounts sometimes are so hard the engine transmits vibrations to the passenger compartment.

    The "T" tube and large diameter washer assembly are a welded one piece unit.

    This "T" tube and washer unit pushes down into the new motor mount before you install the rear donut mount into the cross member.... the tube portion is the spacer that won't let you over tighten the large rear mount bolt and nut.

    Sometimes it's very difficult to raise the engine enough to slip the assembled rear mounts into the cross member and under the corner of the bell housing. The car body has possibly dropped down a small amount.

    T- tube spacers and washer, different Chrysler and  plymouth rear mounts.... different heights of tubes...

    Tubes are welded to the large washer.

     

    Motor Mounts Chrysler and Plymouth.JPG

    Motor Mounts Chrysler and Plymouth (4).JPG

    Motor Mounts Chrysler and Plymouth (5).JPG

    • Like 1
  4. Pull the trans,radiator...all the linkages.

    Use a full sized engine crane with a tilt bar to angle the engine as tou pull it out.

    Simple....done dozens and dozens of them.

    p15/d24 board if you want dozens of replies.

  5. Look at the piston ring lands....probably severely worn... it's the top piston ring side clearance area.

    A very common wear area in Ply/Dodge flathead engines.

    Requires new pistons to do it right.

    Timing chain is probably loose too.

    You might be in for a complete engine rebuild for a reliable engine.

  6. Those tank strap nuts are not a regular nut. They are hex at the top and about an 1" of tubular threads below the hex.

    I have removed dozens of those nuts and straps.

    Most break the top of the strap even using vise grips, penetrate etc.

    I cut them off at the strap threaded portion  leaving at least 1/4 to 1/2" below the tube hex nut.

    Then remove the strap and nut.

    Using only an oxy/ acetylene torch heat the nut red hot...apply candle wax to the  inner nut with threads and immediately remove the broken remaining threaded strap bolt from the nut.

    I think "moparpro" on ebay sells those strap nuts though.

    I save them and repair/remake the damaged strap and ends as originally made.

     

     

  7. Old Leather seals tend to trap moisture at the contact surface and over many years causing pitting on the shaft that won't polish out.

    ...speedi-sleeve required if possible with modern rubber lip seals.

    Otherwise use the leather seal soaked in oil on a slightly pitted shaft that cannot be replaced.

  8. It can be done...the last one I did was a 55 Plymouth boot.

    Used grease and teo people to push and pull it through the bell and around the pin.

    Was hard to do.

  9. The 1947 Chrysler choke on the manifold is called a "Sisson" choke.

    Shown above is the 6 cylinder choke unit.

    The 323 eight cylinder Sisson choke units look similar but have a rectangular black box cover on top and are very hard to find new and costly.

    The choke unit mounts over an asbestos heat controlling gasket on the exhaust manifold. Prevents the choke plate from opening too soon.

    Adjusted correctly these choke units are and very reliable.

×
×
  • Create New...