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rageracing

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Posts posted by rageracing

  1. Redoing the king pins on my 34 PE.  Was wondering what the correct placement was for the shims.  I have seen them put differently.  In the repair book it shows shimming right above the lower thrust bearing.  I have seen many put them between the spindle and upper pin bushing.  The manual doesn't show any shims on the 34 independent suspension diagram.

  2. Just wondering what everyone uses for oil in their car.  I have rebuilt the entire drivetrain and I use Brad Penn sae 30 oil for the engine but was wondering what people use for the tranny and rear.   Manual calls for some pretty thick stuff.  Not sure we're to get that or modern equivalent. 34 Plymouth is the model year in question.  Thanks

  3. I think I am way past that point and been beyond patient.  Just sucks having to spend more of my money just to get it back but I don't think I have a choice.  Thanks for the advice and I don't feel bad anymore about doing that

  4. Anybody here ever give someone a bunch of money for a truck and never receive that vehicle or all their money back in over 2/3 years.  Just curious to what they did next.   PM me maybe better before someone here takes it down like the last time. 

    Thanks

  5. If you pull the pistons check closely around the wrist pin.  My 34 had small cracks around a couple of them.  I had a tough time finding oversized crank bearings so I sent my crank to Mile high and had it welded and reground to stock.  Egge had stock sizes.  I also got new rods and pistons from them too.

  6. I made a collar with a thick base and used a threaded rod that fit down through the guide.  I put a nut and jam nut on the bottom and used a hardened thrust washer and nut on top.  As I tightened the top nut it pulled the guide up and out.  Ply33 is correct in the way the service book tells you to remove them.  They use the same guides but the exhaust is orientated reversed from the intake.

  7. You can pull the guides in the car just have to make a puller or find an old one for sale.  The issue is grinding the hardened exhaust valve seats to make sure they are perfectly aligned with the guides.  Not sure if that can be done in the car.  Or rebuild that spare motor and swap them out in a couple hours.

  8. The oil smoke is mostly from worn valve guides.  That is why it's worse on de-acceleration because the pistons are pulling vacuum and sucking oil up past the valves.  The knocking is prolly in the transmission input shaft bushing.  When you hear that noise stay on the gas and push the clutch in and it goes away as yhr motor revs without noise.  Also bearing knocks are usually pronounced with light to no load on the engine allowing things to move and knock.  There is offset load placed in the crank during acceleration that helps keep the play out of the bearings.  The oil misting is probably  ring blow by.  Sometimes you can hold  your hand over the fill tube and feel the pulsing as the engine runs.

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