rageracing
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Posts posted by rageracing
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Cleaned up where the seal rides. It had grooves worn in it. Took it down to 1.5” so trying a 2.562 ODx1.5 ID by 1/2” thick seal
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Picked up the timken seal that ply33 lists on his website, slightly too small of outter diameter to work. Gonna try another one
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The felt seal was also leaking. Any idea of a neoprene? The ones listed on ply33 website the local Napa can’t cross
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Got it!
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How do I get this shift fork out?
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Well pulled the nut and took the bolts out and now I have this and it won’t slide back together. Suggestions please
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Thanks for the tip!
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There is no front seal on these trans too I believe. Should I put a little rtv on the front nose that bolts on?
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Thanks guys! I’ll give this a stab soon. I always had an oil leak from where the speedometer gear comes in, any idea about that? Tried an o-ring once to no avail.
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Got a leak here at the back. Any torque specs for the bolts? Also do I need to pull the driveshaft and take the big nut off to pull it apart? If memory serves me you don’t but been years since having it apart.
thanks!
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Looking for a chassis for my 33 HC. Any out there??
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Not bad to do. I’ve done them on others before. I take the spindle to a machine shop where they can hone the bushing out to be round and correct fit.
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I think for now pull one side apart to measure good and match a set up.
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Finally trying to get some time with the truck. Had the steering box rebuilt. I was really sloppy and was missing internal parts. The tie rods, drag links and king pins are bad. Especially the drag link, I don’t know how it actually stayed together to be honest. Is the parts interchangeable with the 33 dodge cars. Rare parts doesn’t list the parts for the 33 HC?
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Thanks
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Looking for 34 dodge DR engine. Thanks
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Yes I am still looking for them
On 1/26/2020 at 5:57 AM, knobless said: -
I put one on my 34 Pe and could never keep it working. It would just lose spark and I even tried it when I ran the motor on a test stand. No idea and they couldn’t tell me why either
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For engine oil I run brad penn “green oil” 20w/50 in my motors. It has the higher zinc and seems to really stick to the engine parts. I’ve torn them apart after sitting for over a year and everything still had a coating of oil on it. Gear oil I use lubriplate
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I have heard people say one way or another and I tried both but to put the struts underneath made things fit better so I went with that way.
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33 pickup, does the hood struts go between the radiator shell and radiator or do they go underneath the radiator tab. They have a countersink in them like they would go between.
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I had to use my big slide hammer to get mine out the first time. The race must have been rusted in pretty bad
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When I rebuilt my 34 rear I used a slide hammer to pull axles and inner bearing races and inner oil seals. I went to a bearing and seal store and picked up new modern seals and timkin bearings. My rear has the shims behind the inner race so I installed everything with no shims, used a dial indicator on magnetic base to figure out the end play. Local sheet metal shop lazered me out the correct shim for each side out of shim stock and I put back together. The butter grease seal I took apart the original sheet metal one and pressed in a new seal I got from bearing and seal store. The sheet metal housing I turned to side on a lathe for the proper press fit of the skf seal. I believe the 33 is basically the same except the 33 shims the brake backing plate for proper axle end play.
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I moved the driver's seat back in the sedan, that should work. Any ideas for a pickup?
1933 HC tie rod ends
in Dodge Trucks
Posted
According to rare parts, the tie rod ends have a different taper size and nut size on the ends for left and right. Each uses 3/4” threaded tie rod. The ones on the truck now both have 9/16” threaded nuts on the tie rod ends. I wonder what is right as I don’t see anyone directly listing pickup parts separately and I wonder if the part the ball joints attach too are messed up?