Linus Tremaine

if your car is not listed on the PDF they dont have records. PROD RECORD RANGE.pdf PROD RECORD RANGE.pdf

http://www.thehenryford.org/research/services/researchServices.aspx Should you wish information about your car, our fee for this service is $20.00 (this includes postage to you). Please include the vehicle engine/serial number as well as payment in your correspondence. Send it to the attention of the Benson Ford Research Center; P.O. Box 1970; Dearborn MI 48121-1970. Please make your check payable to The Henry Ford or, if you wish, a credit card number and expiration date may be provided for payment. Standard turn-around time for research, from receipt of payment, is two to four weeks.

http://www.leatherique.com/

Howard, yes. they are 5/8" which is what I expected. i ordered two. Thanks again for finding the links.

yes, I did buy it. Thats where I got the replacement engine that I put in the Lincoln........

Thanks Keiser31 for correcting my images.

I found this car on jack stands in someones driveway. It had shredded tarps wrapped around it and was looking neglected. It had bad bearings in the engine and had not been driven in 35-40 years. Its a 1927 Lincoln Model L. This is a type 152 5 passenger sedan with 21" Buffalo wire wheels. This picture is from the first drive it made after we fixed it. Naturally, to the gas station.

I use a timing light on my dual point car. There is a mark on the fly wheel for each set of points. I set the lever on the steering wheel to retard and shoot the timing light at the flywheel through the floor boards. I adjust the cam lobe for one set of points and then change to the other bank of cylinders and shoot the light at the other mark on the flywheel. That one is adjusted by moving the adjustable point plate for the second set of points. Once both marks line up with the pointer.... This does involve alot of climbing in and out of the car and opening and closing the distributor, but it took about ten minutes and doesnt involve any special tool. 1927 Lincoln BTW

Yup. Thems them. I will email and ask what size they are. I guess (since I dont have the heater yet) that I should make sure the heater is not 1/2" hose barb size. Thanks Howard.

All, I have a 1927 Lincoln into which I am installing a heater. In this era heater water supply was taken by installing a bulkhead type fitting directly into the side of the upper and lower radiator hoses. This would be a barb fitting for 5/8 hose that you cut a hole into the radiator hose and install into the hole. I guess it would have a nut inside the hose to hold it together. I dont know what to call this, so I cant find one. Does anyone know a good term to use for a google search for this?

This lamp does not apply to model L lincoln. it may apply to K/KB models. Model L used TRILIN branded lamp housings. I am not familiar enough with later lincolns to know if this is the same type or not. I am fairly certain that your lamp is another brand entirely rather than a later model of the same brand- but I dont know for sure. I only can tell you its not for a model L. As stated above, I would ask the main forums as it may not apply to Lincoln at all though it is similar.

Is this the car in Santa Cruz? If so, you wont need to maintain anything. Its a spectacular car. The owner spared no expense on the engine. your maintenance will consist of changing the oil and sweeping the front carpet. I would caution you before driving down there- its not a fully restored car. The interior is original and has some wear. It is, however, very good. It was a body on repaint- a good one but not a "full restoration." I think it is fairly priced.

All, I purchased a '27 lincoln sedan that was left sitting outside. The roof was damaged and also the sunvisor was rotten. The sun visor is a wood laminate with a metal sheet on the top and the bottom. The sides are metal brackets that hold it on the left and right side of the windshield. All of these pieces are then upholstered with the same material as the roof. I got the wood part reproduced and the metal sheets reproduced but I cant find anyone who can sew it up. Does anyone know of a place with experience doing this? I guess they need a special machine to do it. Thanks, Linus

All, I am looking for a matched set of Rosco sidemount mirrors for my car. Ideally they would be the same style as in the picture, but leather strap mounted instead of chain. I am looking for an unrestored set with some patina.. See ebay auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Model-A-Spare-Tire-Mirrors-Old-Ammeter-/331027524383?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&nma=true&si=Y%252FOrBHT%252BuLdKZi09bvRGBOI9gtU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc Thanks, Linus travellak1@netzero.net

All, I am looking for a Boyce Motometer appropriate for my car. I am hoping to find the column mount type that uses a bracket on the steering column. The probe then goes in the top radiator hose. I dont have a picture of what it looks like, hopefully if you have one you know it! Thanks, Linus Travellak1@netzero.net

I suggest that you drop the oil pan and clean it out really well. Also, clean out any tubes or passages that lubricate the main bearings. Sludge that sits in the pan that long can be thick enough that pressurized oil still wont pass through and lube the bearings. My engine was ruined by a previous owner who started it after it sat for a long time.

my ignition system is not the same as the one in this 1919 ebay item # 370172616919

Yes, I have the delco ignition system. I now belive I know why I didnt see that oil level indicator- It must be empty to that pin is all the way down in the block. Ill check it tomorrow.

All, I am new to dodges and am working on a 1916 that has been sitting for about 40 years. The car has been in a garage, but its not in the best of shape. I have been able to get the motor unstuck and am trying to get some spark. First, I have no key and have been jumping the power with an aligator clip on the back of the switch. Which side of the coil should be hot? I have it set now to that the wire on the outer side gets power. When I hand crank the engine my test light turns on and off on the other two terminals on the coil- the one on the back near the engine and the one on the left top that faces towards the rear of the car. I dont get any activity out of the coil though. What is the insulated resistor on top of the coil for? Also, how in the heck do you check the oil? Thanks- hoping for the best- another saved car.