kid442

Made a lot of progress this weekend. Installed the steering box, center link, and idler arm. Also installed master cylinder and s/steel brake lines. Assembled the rebuilt trans to the engine. Slipped the assembly into the 69 W30. All motor and trans mounts. A few more weeks and it should be back on the road better and faster! Ready for installation! 1/2 in not far to go now! In place now to hook everything else up!

TTT

Just a quick update on progress. Cleaning, bead blasting, and painting what a pain in the a**. Engine is on the stand and complete. Trans is complete. Engine bay painted. Front suspension installed. Next brakes and steering box, center link, and the rest. Engine should go in next week. A lot of work but this car deserved it. Ken Engine before! Engine after Engine bay after a lot of work!!!

This car is a 71K original paint never been touched. Just a engine and trans rebuild. I was told all 69W30 cars had the front fenders marked at the factory with W30 on the inside. See the photos below. You can just make out the "W" and some of the "30". Very cool find! Ken

1969 W30 Engine and trans rebuild! Time to refresh the engine and trans. Car was raced in the early 1980's. It all needs to be refreshed. I have Mr."stickw31" working on it. Power washed the engine bay and front suspension. Cleaned up the inner fender wells. Trans is being rebuilt and the engine should be done by May 1. Just a few photos. Take a look. Thanks, Ken

Still a lot to do but working on it. Thanks, KID442

The continental, Thank you for your reply! Paul, I have a few cars I would also like back. The two I miss the most is a 1955 Cadillac and a mint 1967 396 4 speed triple black convertible car. Thank you for your reply! Be well, Ken

Yes. If it was a Jetfire. Thanks, Ken

I am looking for any photos of a 1962 or 1963 Olds Jetfire racing at any drag strip. I found a thread posted on the The Jalopy Journal web site. This is the quote. “John Demmer of Lansing, Michigan had success drag racing a Jetfire that was built by Oldsmobile for him to race. I built the 4.56 rear axle for it.” Any help will be appreciated, Ken Dennison 732-870-6964 kid442w30@yahoo.com

Not made too much progress but still finding parts. WTony patched the floor and welded the 4-speed hump in. Dad and I converted the car from auto and bolted the hump in 1982. WTony also installed a new rocker panel. Still more to go but we are closer. Back to working on the W30. I also found a photo of my dad guiding the 215 with the 4 speed trans attached.

Not made too much progress but still finding parts. WTony patched the floor and welded the 4-speed hump in. Dad and I converted the car from auto and bolted the hump in 1982. WTony also installed a new rocker panel. Still more to go but we are closer. Back to working on the W30. I also found a photo of my dad guiding the 215 with the 4 speed trans attached.

For $2900 you could convert the car to 4 speed and have money left over. I have converted 3 Jetfires to stick and then you will be happy. Not as hard a job as it looks. Think about it! Ken

Some more information about Olds W-cars. Thanks to all that replied! Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- W Machines -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- W-30 {1968-1980} W-31 {1968-1970} W-32 (1969-1970) W-33 (1970) W-34 (1968-1970) W-40 (1983-1984) W-41 (1991-1993) Submit corrections and additions to this information to The Olds FAQ Compiler. W-30 All W-30s, for all years, were also referred to by the factory as Outside Air Induction (OAI) systems. The W-30 option was in addition to the 442 option. Some with automatic transmissions used column shifters instead of floor mounted shifters. A basic rundown of engines used is: 1966 - 1967 Short stroke E-block 400 1968 - 1969 Long stroke G-block 400 1970 - 1972 F-block 455 1973 - 1976 Fa-block 455 1976 - 1980 2-block 350 Authentication This is sort of a prickly subject because the factory was concerned with producing vehicles, not the desires of collectors thirty years later! So you will find some (maybe a lot) of stock, factory, not mickeyed, un-numbers matching vehicles. It seems to be a matter of record here on the list that Olds was kind of "loose" with the correspondence between the series designation in the VIN and the style number on the body plate, in the period of 1968-1969. As much as we would like to think that Olds inscribed those numbers on the cars purely for the sake of collectors verifying the correctness of these cars thirty years after the fact, the real purpose of them was convenience and record-keeping in the production process. So, if the Lansing plant was able to produce 442's efficiently, with the right parts, by simply installing all the parts in the regular Cutlass bodyshell (which would differ from the 442 shell by only two digits in that data plate), then there's no reason for them not to. Of course, the VIN would have to reflect the models that the dealers actually ordered, and since different prices were given for the different models, a dealer who was expecting a VIN beginning with 344 would feel cheated if he got a list of an incoming car beginning with VIN 336. In theory, the VIN and Body (cowl) Tag should match, but it is really the VIN that counts. For example, Lansing 442's (at least) came off the line with regular Cutlass body plates, even though the VIN is correct for a 442. However, someone could have changed the VIN - check for new rivets! One other way to think about this: if someone did alter the car to look like a 442, why would they add the VIN, but not the body plate, from a 442? A body plate is a lot simpler to replace; would someone with an original 442 try to pass it off as a regular Cutlass by installing a "336..." body plate? 1967 through 1971 W-30's have red inner fender wells. 1968 and 1969 have a four inch diameter hole cut in the horizontal surface of the inner fender directly behind the head lights on each side for the ducting to the under-the-bumper scoops. Typically this hole will have a rough edge which makes it look like a custom job. 1967 pulled it's air from around the lights, so there is no hole in the inner fender. The aluminum intakes (W-30 or W-31) were not produced until the 1970 model year. 1970 through 1972 used the W25 OAI hood rather than the under-the-bumper scoops so there would be no holes in the fender well. Starting in 1972, the inner fender wells are black, although the first 10 1972 W-30's came with red fender wells (Actual fact by Helen Early, Olds Historic curator). These 10 cars would have had to be produced in late 1971. All W-machines for the 1966 to at least 1972 model year were made in Lansing ("M" is the 7th character in the VIN). W-30s have less body and sound insulation. Unfortunately, 1968 to 1971 442's can be made up to W-30's if they have all the right parts. The real way is with a build sheet. For 1972 only, the VIN's engine digit will contain an X. In short, just make sure it is a 442 with the VIN stating 344 and look for options. To identify if the car is a REAL W-30 Look for a build sheet first. It is found on top of the gas tank, or behind the rear seat or even under the front seat or under the carpet. If not found, then make sure the VIN starts with 344. That determines it is a 442. The build sheet for a Canadian car cannot be used to determine a W-30. Not just a Canadian car (as in built at the Ontario plant), but any US built car that was sold in Canada also. If there seller knows what they have, they should be able to produce at least some original paper work. Look for things such as the correct heads, aluminum intake that says Oldsmobile, red inner fender wells, a posi tag, disc brakes, an OW or WOG transmission, OAI hood and air cleaner and check the numbers of the distributor and carburetor. All W-30s had the Rallye Pac as standard equipment, and either a Muncie 4 speed or a specially calibrated TH-400 automatic with code "OW". Starting in 1972, the Rallye Pac was optional. Check the serial number on the engine, stamped on a pad below the drivers side head at the front of the engine. This will probably require a mirror and possibly some cleaning. This should be 8 characters long and match the last 8 characters of your VIN. What about those frame braces? Also, are the lower control arms boxed or open on the bottom? Rear (and front) sway bars were often removed to help traction for drag racing. If there are no boxed lower arms or frame braces, I would be suspicious. Also, the axle might have been changed, especially if it was flogged heavily. Check the block and head sections for component ids to further evaluate a W-30's genuineness. Keep in mind that it is theoretically possible for someone to have installed all of this equipment in an attempt to fake it. On the other hand, locating, purchasing, and installing all of this hardware would have been so expensive that it would have been more cost effective just to buy a real W-30 - making highly unlikely that the car is a fake. Watch out for heads and block that have had the id code ground away and modified, possibly built up with JB Weld. Check the casting number of the block and heads. These are smaller and harder to change. The four speed would be the same as in a 442. Nothing to identify it as a W-30 transmission. The TH-400 "OW" code transmission was used in automatic W-30s for the 68 W-30/H-O, and the 69-71 W-30s. Check and compare the rear end code. Make sure the correct rear end cover is in place. You can verify a factory trunk wing by unlocking the trunk. The trunk should rise on its own, without assistance. The springs (rods) were different for cars with and without the wings. Of course the trunk springs could have been replaced with lesser ones.

Matt, Thank you for your reply. I have a 1969 442 that is 85% original paint, original interior, rechromed rear bumper, and we are rebuilding the original engine and trans. Is that original enough or too much restoration? Thanks, Ken

At the Hershey AACA meet do they have a unrestored class? If so where are the rules to that class? Thanks, Ken

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes December 12th, 2011, 11:15 PM #1 (permalink) 1962oldsguy Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 6 1961-1963 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass Jetfire 88 98 Starfire Parts! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, I have LOTS of used auto parts for 1961-1963 Oldsmobile's. Cars that i have parts for are F 85, Cutlass, Jetfire, 88, 98, and Starfire. I have tons of parts for these cars! I am looking to get rid of most of these parts cheap! Here are some ideas for the bigger parts 1961-1962 Oldsmobile set of rust free doors ($150 set OBO) 1961-1962 Oldsmobile Trunk lid ($85. OBO) 1961-1962 Oldsmobile rear bumper ($125. OBO) 1961-1962 Oldsmobile front Bucket Seats set of 2x ($100 OBO) 1963 Oldsmobile 88 4-door driver side doors ($50 each OBO!) 1961-1962 Oldsmobile Fuel Tank ($85. OBO) I have many interior parts, trim, badging, engine components and many things that I am wanting to sell! Mirrors, Gas/Break pedals, Light bezels.. and LOTS OF STUFF!!! Please email or call me with your wish list 541-678-0606 or demammothman@live.com Ebay Store: HO Scale Model Railroad cars, Jewelry items in DME's Oldsmobile Parts and more store on eBay! Thank-you

Below is a link to a 1963 Olds F85/Cutlass Assy manual. It has all the paint codes. Take a look. Ken link: Wild About Cars - View Factory Publication

Steve, I have a spare front section of an inner front wheel well under the battery. I just replaced the same section in my 63 Olds. See the photo below. I bought two and used one. Take a look at the photo. I can send you a photo if you would like. The other place is the Buick Bonery see the info below. The last item is the Buick Yahoo group link below. They are a nice group and very helpful. If you would like a photo or two email me back. Thanks, Ken kid442w30@yahoo.com 732-870-6964 Yahoo group (Yahoo! Groups: Search Results Buick Bonery, Sacramento, CA Hello Buick lovers, Many of you may know the Buick Bonery which was operated by Buick guru Ken Schmidt since the 1970s. Ken has retired and I was able to buy half of his cars to keep the business operating, but on a smaller scale. The years range from 1939 to 1972. Please let me know if I may be able to help you in your restoration projects. Mike Hogan 916/599-3934

Joe, That's a 62 Jetfire air cleaner like Scott's. Its a cool photo. Ken

I found this photo on the web of a 215V8 removed from the bottom with the front suspension attached. Take a look and let me know what you think. Thanks, Ken

If you need more help just email or post. Good Luck & be well, Ken

Keller, Fusick has a 63 repair manual reproduced. This would be a big help for you. Also D & D are the experts. Give them another try. The son is running it now but if Dan is there you should talk to him. Not sure of the price but I would think not cheap. These old 215V8's are hard to come by now. The other group you should join is the Yahoo group is skylark616263(skylark616263 : Skylark/Specials 61 62 63) you could come up with a used engine. Joe really has first hand knowledge so he is the best to check with. Good Luck, Ken

Keller, How long has the engine been in the car? Most of the time if the engine has been in the car for 15/20 years the engine mounts are broken. Just so I understand what is "What is the easiest way to remove the two isolation mount bolts near the top of the engine" There are two ways to remove the engine and trans. You should buy a 1963 Olds repair manual. This is the best item to help you. I always remove the engine and trans from the top. You just have to unbolt all the mounts and take it out. The factory manual tells you to drop it out the bottom. You need to take the bolts out of the sub frame, disconnect the steering box and lift the body above the engine height and roll it out using the front wheels and a jack to support the trans. Take a few photos and post them or give me a call. Good luck! Ken 732-870-6964

Bob, Thanks for the post. Be well, Ken

Dave, Do they have any other 60's Oldsmobiles? Ken