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About MontanaKeller

  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. I was buying it as a core. However, I was hesitant because that code is a Buick code. Thanks for looking at your old block. It maybe what I am looking for.
  2. Thanks Joe! I agree that the heads are Olds. My concern is that the block is not. The stamp on the right side of the block is HI342255, From my research that number suggest it is a 1962 Buick 215 equiped with a 4bbl carb. I am using this link as a source http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/GM-215-Engine-Identification.htm Am I misidentifing the the block? Would like to find an engine that is number matching.
  3. I want to purchase an engine for a 1962 Olds F-85 Cutlass. I found one that looks decent: however, I'm not confident that the block is an Olds. From my research, the HI stamp on the head would be for a 1962 Buick 215 4bbl hi compression engine. The heads look correct and the valve covers look correct. Before I drive 600 miles and spend $500 I want to make sure it is a legit Olds block. Thanks in advance!
  4. Thanks kid442 and joe! I didn't think that a new drive line would have been a viable option, but I wanted to ask. Thanks for the link to the center bearing and support. I'm not sure what the issue was with the machine shop but I gave them two weeks. Thanks again!
  5. I took my propeller shaft to a machine shop to have it balanced. The guy at the machine shop is having a difficult time and cannot get it balanced. He believes that the center bearing is preventing this. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is it possible to replace the propeller shaft with a one piece drive line? Thanks again!
  6. I was driving my 62 Cutlass when the number 3 spark plug blew out. (No aggressive acceleration or driving) There a several external methods for fixing this such as Helicoil and Time-Sert. I am concerned about the shaving entering the cylinder. I have read where you coat the tap with grease to collect shavings, vacuum the cylinder, and then flush the cylinder of any remaining debris. Looking for the right fix and not the right now fix. Thanks
  7. Replaced the radiator with an "OEM" 3 row radiator. The car is running great and doesn't go above 180. (Even idling in traffic). The water pump never arrived- seemed that nobody had one. Thanks to everyone for their input. Now, it is on to the next project. On a side note- The engine rebuilder here in the valley has a separate tank for aluminum. I believe that it is a citrus based solution that they use. When the block came out of the tank, it was shiny and clean. Bradford's Machine and Balance did a great job with the 215.
  8. 1) The IR thermometer is on order. The nearest town that has one in 100 miles away. 2) I could not find a water pump when I rebuilt the engine. The plan was to find one and then replace it. I just happened to stumble across one that was in a warehouse. The pump blades are made of aluminum and can corrode and cause inefficiency. I don't think it is a "magical fix", but it could be a part of the equation. 3) The rebuilt was done by professionals and was tank cleaned. The radiator was checked and cleaned 4) I agree with those that have mentioned that it could be the radiator. I am checking to see if it can be re-cored. If possible, I would like to go from a two row to a three row. 5) Perhaps the timing is slightly off.
  9. Here is an update: Still running too hot during idling. I found a reman water pump and will be installing it this week. Wondering if the radiator is breaking down, and should I have the radiator re-cored. I was looking at replacement radiators and found a couple for $400 plus through US radiator an Be Cool. (Seems steep) What about an universal radiator from Jegs or Summit? Although they would not be a direct fit, it would be close. Any thoughts?
  10. Thanks for all of the great info. The engine was rebuilt 600 miles ago. I had the radiator cleaned and inspected. The fan is a direct drive fan with 6 blades. The runs around 200 degrees going down the road at 55 or 60 mph. The temp will increase a few degrees when climbing a hill. I am considering replacing the water pump. Also the transmission cooler is in front of radiator and see to take up a large area.
  11. Hello everyone- How hot is too hot for an aluminum 215? When idling in traffic, the temp gauge read sometimes as high as 220. I will dump heat by turning on the heater and that drops the temp. There is not a shroud around the radiator but I am looking for long. I have a 180 thermostat in the car but thinking of switching to a 160 when I change the water pump. Would that make a noticeable difference?
  12. Hey everybody- I would like to find a fan shroud for a 1962 Olds F85.
  13. Thanks for the info helfin! It was the sprag clutch. I had the transmission rebuilt and it is running great. So it is on to the next project.....
  14. Hey forum, For those that have the 215, which temp of thermostat would be best? In the manual is calls for 170 degrees. At the parts stores, all I am finding are 160 or 180. What thermostat are you running? On a side note, my car does not have a fan shroud. I have looked for the part but I could not find one. Since the engine does not have the shroud, should I consider a fan other than the OEM fan? The temp does go up if I am driving in town. Thanks for all of your help!
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