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1951 Buick Transmission leak - help needed please


Guest kimestork

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Guest kimestork

I have a serious leak of transmission fluid coming from the rear of my 1951 Buick Special Dynaflow transmission. I have read the other posts on this site and looked at images on the internet and now am more confused than when I started. My concern is that the picture that I have found online (see below) is not the same as my car which appears to have a rubber seal where none is evident on the other pictures.  Please can anyone shed any light on why there is a difference before I tear mine apart and order all the wrong parts. 

img020.pdf

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Guest kimestork

I am now in the process of removing the rear axle and have hit a snag. The car is on jack stands and the wheels are off. I have a jack under the diff with enough lift to slightly compress both springs  - looking for a sweet spot to continue removal. Both lower spring clamps have been removed and the left hand shock link came out with no problem. I am now having a problem removing the right hand shock link (new design) and the panhard bar. I cannot get enough clearance to remove the shock link and it appears that the panhard bar won't come off until the link is removed. Seems like a catch 22. What am I doing wrong? Very grateful for any advice.

Many thanks,

Peter 

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Guest kimestork

Today's progress. I have the right hand shock link off and will tackle the panhard bar next. Have liberally applied WD40 to the retaining pin (RH side) in attempt to overcome the "old rubber adhering to metal" syndrome but it seems firmly in there. I suppose it will require more messing with jacks and levels to find another sweet spot.

It's definitely a labor of love! Even if I could work on my late model Jaguar (which I can not), I wouldn't waste the time. Modern technology has taken all the fun out of "back yard mechanics".

 

Peter  

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Guest kimestork

Many thanks Rosiesdad. That worked perfectly. Strange design had me scratching my head.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest kimestork

Thanks Pete. I was a little confused at first until I received the instructions that came with the new kit (with rubberized outer torque ball retainer) stating that the boot would not be required. Interestingly enough, when I got my car stripped down, I discovered that a previous owner had installed the new kit (with rubberized retainer) AND the boot. I am not sure whether this helped or hurt, but I chose to leave it off. I guess time will tell.

Again, thanks for your reply.

Peter

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Guest kimestork

To wrap this post up, I'd like to thank the guys for their help and report that I finished the job last Friday (May 6). It took me about 6 hours, but then I guess I'm a little slower than most. I follow my late dad's instructions - read for an hour, think for an hour, work for 10 minutes. I found the most time-consuming and difficult part of the job was centering the torque ball while tightening the retainer bolts. I guess age has something to do with it; lying on a creeper working upside down with the frame about 4 inches above one's chest while wresting a sawn-off broom handle in one hand and a wrench in the other and trying to keep your glasses on can be a challenge!

The satisfaction of knowing that the job is well done and there are NO leaks makes it all worthwhile. To say nothing of the $1,000 and change that I saved in labor by not taking it to my repair shop who priced me outta there!  

Once again, thanks for replies and messages.

 

Peter

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On ‎5‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 5:54 PM, kimestork said:

 ....lying on a creeper working upside down with the frame about 4 inches above one's chest while wresting a sawn-off broom handle in one hand and a wrench in the other and trying to keep your glasses on can be a challenge!

Oh boy, does that bring back memories!

 

 

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On 5/9/2016 at 5:54 PM, kimestork said:

  I guess age has something to do with it; lying on a creeper working upside down with the frame about 4 inches above one's chest

Peter

 

 

Some of my best naps were taken in a position like this. 

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