Tom_ Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 My door weatherstripping is leaking with this new influx of East Texas rain and I've read something about the weatherstripping needing to seal to the body of the car. The traditional method of stuffing vacuum line behind the weatherstripping to push it out shouldn't work in this case I assume. I've had some in there and I've also adjusted the vent window angle and neither has done much to help. My question is, should the vacuum line or some such material behind the weatherstripping help or hurt this type or seal? I've never had a pillar less door vehicle before so I don't know how those seals work. The other question I have is, where exactly would I put some 3M weatherstripping adhesive to possible help the seal with the body? I've seen this explained but I haven't seen a picture which would make it much clearer to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Something to check is at the corner where the vent window frame meets the weather strip (where the strip curves from horizontal top edge down the A pillar). Specifically, when installed at the factory the weather stripping is glued to the metal frame around the door opening at this point. Along the pillar and the top edge it snaps into a metal retainer channel but in the curved area at the transition in direction it should be glued down as there is a break in the retainer channel. If this adhesive has released from age or prior removal of the weather strip, water can get behind it and drip right down into the car interior.For that matter, the metal retainer strips should be sealed to the body with RTV or a similar sealant to prevent water getting behind the retainer strips at any point along their length. I've found this to be a problem on all of my Reattas to one extent or another.KDirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Water is definitely coming in at the transition in angle behind the weatherstripping. So I'll take care of that. When I look from underneath and behind the top part of the weatherstripping I see no evidence of adhesives of any kind. This makes me belive I'm looking at the wrong place. The drivers side is leaking at the top of the vent window and the upper back corner. The passengers side is just by the vent window. Do I need to pull off the weatherstripping to see where to rtv the top part or is is accessible from the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 (edited) Yes, the adhesive is behind the weather stripping, so the rubber needs to be gently pulled away from the body to see where it was originally applied. If there is any loose material left on the metal surface clean it off first and then use adhesive. 3M weather strip adhesive (either clear or black will work) is probably best for this application. The snap in retainer channels screwed to the body are metal on metal so something more like RTV or Black Magic adhesive (used by a lot of auto glass installers) is likely better for that portion of it. The latter is hard to find at retail though and likely will have to be purchased online.Keep in mind also that there is an up-stop limiter on the power window that limits how high it can travel. This effects not only the seal of the side window but how it nests in the peak of the vent window run channel. If it adjusted too low it will not make a tight seal at the upper edge. If set too high it can tear out the rubber seal at the peak of the vent window by allowing the moving window to over-travel causing more leaks. Like the lower vent window angle adjustments, the up-stop limiter is only accessible by removing the interior door panel and vapor barrier so don't mess with it unless it is obvious that it is out of adjustment.KDirk Edited December 15, 2015 by KDirk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 The up stop limiter seems to be in adjustment. The top of the window meets the lip on the top weatherstripping snugly and reaches the top of the vent window run channel without trying to tear out the rubber seal. Honestly this couldn't have come at a better time, I'm recovering the A pillar covers with headliner material since Safelite did a number on them when they replaced the windshield which is 100% not the source of the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Ouch. Be forwarned the headliner material is prone to fade from direct sun exposure as I did the same on some grubby looking pillar trims. Had to redo them with vinyl six months later they faded so bad (these were burgundy). Different colors may not be as susceptible but just wanted to warn you. There are also thin, straight weather strips stuck along the underside of the windshield encapsulation trim with double face tape. Hopefully Safelite didn't damage or discard these when they did the windshield as they make the seal aganst the angled side of the vent window when the door is closed. Without them (or if they were cut or torn) these can also be a source of leaks.KDirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_ Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 It's beechwood and what's left of the original material is essentially white. I don't mind the fading on beechwood much as long as it's not falling apart. The thin strip you mentioned is firmly attached on the driver's side but the passenger side has about the bottom 6 inches detached from the tape. That's one of the leaks I'm sure but it was not the only one. I pulled gently around the top and angled part of the weatherstripping and none of it seems to be coming off apart from a very small part towards the rear on the passenger door. I suppose the plan of action would be to glue back on the obvious bits and pull up on the bottom of the rubber and shoot rtv between the rubber and the metal. There's a tear about an inch long on the back side of the rubber at the angle on both sides but I don't know that it would cause a leak given the location (only visible looking up from below) but I'm going to use a dab of rtv on it anyway. Is it possible to adjust the angle of the rear of the window so it hugs the rear weatherstrip more? If I stick my ear up to the back top corner of the window while driving 40+ or so I can hear the faintest air leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Only adjustment for how the power window meets the weather stripping is in changing the angle of the vent window which imparts inward or outward adjustment on the moving window via the run channel on the rearward edge of the vent window. Bringing the vent window in too tight is as bad as it not being tight enough as the further in it is adjusted the lower the top edge of the glass will hit be relative to the lip on the weather strip. It also puts undue wear on the weather strip where the peak of the vent window meets it by over compressing it. It may also cause the door not to close 100% flush in alignment with the rear quarter of the body sheetmetal. In an extreme over adjustment inward I can imagine it putting enough stress on the tempered glass potentially shattering it.KDirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox W. Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I just got really lucky last week and nabbed a NOS driver-side door seal. Still has GM sticker on it. I can't resist buying any NOS rubber for a Reatta, even when I don't yet need it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 20 hours ago, Fox W. said: I just got really lucky last week and nabbed a NOS driver-side door seal. Still has GM sticker on it. I can't resist buying any NOS rubber for a Reatta, even when I don't yet need it. i wonder if steele rubber products could use that to make new door seals? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox W. Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 I just asked Steele if they will consider it. I doubt it though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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