1923 Buick 4 cyl starter/generator. Need help removing

Hello again, Gents

We need to pull the starter/generator to rebuild but need help getting her out. Do we need to remove the radiator and everything behind it so we can move the thing forward and out of the flywheel?

Or is there a better way?

Steve, easy if you take your time. And no need to remove the water pump. I am gong to assume that your 4 cyl set up is like my 6 cylinder.

Disconnect the battery.

There is a pin on a collar in between the starter shaft to the water pump. You have to drive out that pin and then push the collar forward to the water pump. This separates the shaft. The collar is usually rusted in place. Use lots of penetrating fluid. Tap it forward with a metal drift pin. Lightly now, you do not want to damage or break it. If you look close at the pic you can see the collar just forward of the distributor.

Then remove the cover over the flywheel. You will then see a couple of bolts that hold the starting gear to the case, remove them.

Disconnect the wiring, marking each where they go, make a diagram too.

Remove the bolts from the underside of the S/G that hold it to the block. Have a helper hold and lift out the S/G. It is very heavy.

The S/G is really a simple machine. It is easy to take apart and regrease the bearings and replace brushes. There are a couple of fiber bushings on the control arms, do not lose or break them as you will have to make new ones out of nylon rollers. The S/G will not work without the bushings on the arms.

There are four bolts on the s/g units I have worked on. Two underneath it and two between it and the crankcase. You have to remove the side cover to get to them. If it doesn't come off easily, take the time to find out why. You can get sealed bearings to replace the old ones. NOS brushes can be had from Tom Van Meeteren, not cheap. Also new parts for the distributor.

Roger

Do as "unimogjohn has written,but you don`t need to remove the cover over the fly wheel.There are tre bolts underneath the S/G,then you can "trix" it out.But be sure the collar is free from the S/G.

No need to do this (Then remove the cover over the flywheel. You will then see a couple of bolts that hold the starting gear to the case, remove them. )

Leif in Sweden.

G,day Lief. The 23,and 24 years on the four are the same or close enough to it, the 22 is different at the flywheel end but all will interchange as a unit. Take a carefull look at the distributer driven gear and the gear on the roller clutch for wear from poor lube. You could if you chose use a roll pin in the coupling . If you do this put the hole at the top and support the shaft lightly with a jack underneath . Without shaft support the waterpump impeller may suffer or worse the pump body may break off at the timing case flange. You might like to tap a thread in the shaft and use an allen head unbrako. Remember if you need to retime the distributer it is easily done by releasing the jamb net and turning the cam shaft in the driven gear. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia