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Roger Barrett

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Everything posted by Roger Barrett

  1. 1928 series 114, the smaller Buicks of that year. Also fit 1926/27 Standard six cars.
  2. I ran into this when doing the wheels for my dad’s roadster. I found enough pieces to put together a set and have some leftovers but they are in rough shape. But they are #5 which are used on the larger series cars. That is your problem. Buffalo wheels are very rare on the series 114, formerly known as Standard six cars, because people with money to spring for sexy wheels and other goodies usually bought the bigger cars. I would like to help you with this. I don’t think any of my leftovers will help but I would have to make measurements to be sure. Possibly the larger parts could be turned down to fit. Alternatively, yours could be built up by silver brazing and then turned back to size and re threaded. I did this on a couple of ours. Turning left hand threads on the lathe is a mind bender for a machinist. You can reach me at 530 863 seven five seven nine. Happy new year.
  3. Remove the area crossed out and the seal will press into the retainer. Also use some RTV to seal the area on the other side as indicated.
  4. Here is the seal that I use. It requires some modifications to the housing. Very effective.
  5. Go with the filter from Bob’s. It is a nice unit. Works great and filters are available. Have one on mine.
  6. Should be 114” wheelbase.
  7. Lester just cam ground some pistons for the 1935 Buick for me. Great guy to do business with.
  8. I have to change my name as a poster here. My father Roger passed away two months ago.
  9. CB 90P is the Clevite number. Any good parts house should be able to cross it. I found International Harvester V8 bearings work for the 1935 90 series I converted to inserts.
  10. There are far more than seven existing, but still a desirable machine. The doctor thing is bogus.
  11. I put mine on a lift without problems. That Master roadster has a robust frame.
  12. This is a common problem on Buicks with the Marvel intake heat system. The only way to properly repair it is to remove the sleeves and replace them. We have done a bunch of these. New sleeves used to be available but now I turn out custom ones for every job, as there are variations in the size of the jacket castings. Don’t try to press or hammer the old ones out. I slit them and carefully peel them inward to reduce the diameter. Then they can be safely removed. Repair with epoxy has been done but only if the exhaust has been blocked off from the jacket which should be done anyway since it is not necessary with modern gas, especially here in California.
  13. They need to be there. I have spares. Email me at bcanumber99@yahoo.com Erik
  14. The pictures do not do justice to this car. It was a privilege to work on and drive it. The 1928 models were unique in many ways. First year of conventional shift pattern. When the SAE was thinking about this they went to Henry Ford who was designing the new model A at that time. Ford told them if they wanted every car to shift the same they would have to go with what the model A was going to be and that was that.
  15. There is no clutch brake on these cars. You should have between one and two inches of free play on the pedal before you feel the clutch. It should start to engage about two inches off the floorboards. We replaced the clutch in this car because it had been relined with friction material that was wrong for the application. The car was unmanageable as the clutch would chatter and grab, stalling the engine at inconvenient times. These machines have a multiple disc clutch that is way over engineered. It has something like fourteen discs in all. Keep practicing and you will make friends with the car.
  16. I am familiar with that lovely roadster. So familiar, in fact that I put the clutch in it. When last I drove it the clutch performed exactly as it should. That said, these things don’t drive like cars even just a little newer than this one. There has been a lot of good advice on this thread. When upshifting your Buick you must be patient to let that huge rotating mass slow down to where it would be turning in the gear you are looking for. In essence you must match engine rpm to road speed in any given gear. On downshifting you have to double clutch and rev the engine up to what it would be turning in the gear you want. You have a fine automobile. I looked at it a lot when I was restoring my dad’s 1927 roadster.
  17. Thank you everyone. Having his car there was awesome for him. This afternoon his grandson drove the car with myself in the co pilot seat and we picked dad up at the funeral home. We got him in a box that fit perfectly in the golf bag door and took him home with a stop at the local pub we frequented while he lived. He would have expected no less. When they realized who was there the veterans stood and honored him as we placed him on the bar and hoisted one in his memory.
  18. My father Roger passed away last week at 85. He owned his roadster since 1952 and began restoring it in about 1960. He bought his BCA membership from Greg F. At the Long Beach swap meet at the very beginning. We got his car finished up last year. Many of you may have seen it in Oklahoma. It was the trip of a lifetime for him and he couldn’t be more proud of seeing his car at a BCA show. Special thanks go to Cindy Livingston and Pete Phillips for all they did to make this special for him.
  19. The buick generator will charge 12 volts. We have done it on several cars with overdrives and other thing that need it. Just put on a 12V cutout and adjust the third brush for correct charge rate. Also we have had 12V regulators built in the original cutout housing by John Regan. I’m not sure if he is still doing them.
  20. John, internal combustion engines require four things to run. Fuel, ignition, compression, and timing. Any one of those is gone and you will not run. Start with the basics. Do you have adequate compression? Should be 50 lbs or more. If you have been using starting fluid we can assume there is fuel. Check if you have a hot spark while cranking. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it about 3/8” from a ground and have a helper crank the engine. If you have a weak or no spark it is likely that your starter is pulling the battery voltage down too low for the ignition to work properly. This could be due to a low performing battery or more likely having battery cables that are too small, and bad connections on them. Six volt cars need big cables. If you have good compression, hot spark, and fuel, only incorrect timing will keep it from running. If you can’t get it to run send me a PM and I will work through it with you. I love these Buicks. Here’s a pic of mine.
  21. They are accessory demountable wheels for pre-1917 model T Ford.
  22. If it has a water manifold running over the top of the cylinder head it’s the big one. If the upper hose hooks up to the front of the head it’s the small one. I have parts for the small one. Fred Rawling May be able to help with the big one.
  23. You are missing the oil pump drive. Is this a small or large series car?
  24. Hugh, if there is a hole in the heat jacket sleeve it is a tremendous vacuum leak no matter if the Marvel intake preheat system is working or not.
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