Roger Barrett

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  1. The buick generator will charge 12 volts. We have done it on several cars with overdrives and other thing that need it. Just put on a 12V cutout and adjust the third brush for correct charge rate. Also we have had 12V regulators built in the original cutout housing by John Regan. I’m not sure if he is still doing them.
  2. John, internal combustion engines require four things to run. Fuel, ignition, compression, and timing. Any one of those is gone and you will not run. Start with the basics. Do you have adequate compression? Should be 50 lbs or more. If you have been using starting fluid we can assume there is fuel. Check if you have a hot spark while cranking. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold it about 3/8” from a ground and have a helper crank the engine. If you have a weak or no spark it is likely that your starter is pulling the battery voltage down too low for the ignition to work properly. This could be due to a low performing battery or more likely having battery cables that are too small, and bad connections on them. Six volt cars need big cables. If you have good compression, hot spark, and fuel, only incorrect timing will keep it from running. If you can’t get it to run send me a PM and I will work through it with you. I love these Buicks. Here’s a pic of mine.
  3. They are accessory demountable wheels for pre-1917 model T Ford.
  4. If it has a water manifold running over the top of the cylinder head it’s the big one. If the upper hose hooks up to the front of the head it’s the small one. I have parts for the small one. Fred Rawling May be able to help with the big one.
  5. You are missing the oil pump drive. Is this a small or large series car?
  6. Hugh, if there is a hole in the heat jacket sleeve it is a tremendous vacuum leak no matter if the Marvel intake preheat system is working or not.
  7. You are better off removing the original sleeve and replacing it. A skilled operator with an acetylene torch can slice the steel sleeve where it is pressed into the iron heat jacket without damaging the casting. I have done it many times. I then machine a new sleeve to fit the jacket bore. They can vary so each one is a custom job. The sleeves used to be available but as far as I know are not anymore. You really don’t want to choke the the intake down any smaller.
  8. The prewar Buicks and other cars I have worked on have an orifice about .035” the the overhead.
  9. The RI wiring harnesses available new are really nice. It is likely if the car was restored in 1974 the original harness was left alone and is now nearly twice as old as it was then. Who knows how long new harnesses will be available.
  10. My father started restoring this car in 1960. Perseverance pays off.
  11. You have a voltage problem. The starter is dragging the voltage down below where the ignition will function. When you release the starter the voltage comes back up while the engine is still turning over and it will start. Either your starter is taking too much to operate or more likely you have a battery cable problem, like small 12 volt cables on a 6 volt car, or bad connections or grounds.
  12. If you have seven to ten it will be okay. Less than that and you should drop the pan and look at things. Pay particular attention to the soldered joints of the oil plumbing and cleanliness of the pan and oil pump screen. I made a device to pressurize the oiling system with the pan off. It’s messy but makes it easy to see where your pressure is leaking off.
  13. Those bearings look pretty good. They will give good service if the car is driven as intended. If you are going to push it beyond that you may want new ones.
  14. I am bringing my dad and his roadster to the meet. He’s BCA #99. Had this car since 1952.