mbstude

Do you mean me?

I acquired the car from my friend this morning. I have a Studebaker Lark project (almost done) that I need to finish up first.. Then I'll tear down this SA-25 and see what kind of trouble I can get myself into. Should be a fun build!

Exhaust cutout.

A quick email to Andy Beckman (Archivist at the Studebaker National Museum) answered the engine number question - it’s stamped into the top of the block, left side, between the #2 and #3 cylinders. 25A-204, a pretty low number. A little more of the story on this car - Two guys from Long Island found the chassis in a New Jersey junkyard in about 1952. They got it running and cobbled together the plywood body at that time. Somehow it’s managed to survive intact for the last 70 years. The current owner’s father bought the car in 1996 from George Albright. Not much has been done to the car since, other than starting it and driving it around the pastures every few years. The car is thoroughly worn out, though it still starts and runs. I’m thinking it might be my next project.. I want to rebuild the chassis and put a more attractive body on it - turning it into either a proper speedster with a lower seating position, or a roadster style pickup truck (leaning more towards the latter idea). Since it’s really just a chassis, authenticity goes out the window and I may as well have fun with it. But it was purchased without any paperwork and as such has never been registered or tagged. I’d like to be able to drive the car on the road when it’s all done.. Hence the need to find a number on it so we can get it titled. Should be fun!

What Bloo said - I can’t find an engine serial number.

I just found another post on this forum where I asked the same question in 2020. Seems that the original serial tag was fastened to the firewall. This car doesn’t have the original firewall. I’m open to suggestions.

We have a 1913 Stude model 25 with a homemade body on it. Can anyone tell me where the serial number tag (or engine serial number) is? We need to get a title and registration for it. All I've found so far is a circa 1990 registration card from a previous owner in New York. The number listed on the card is 254204. Thanks in advance.

Overdrive would make a big difference - you’d essentially have a 4th gear that would give you a 30% reduction in engine RPM’s. The 1938 overdrive trans is one-year-only, but they’re out there. But if you’re good with it as it is, then by all means, keep driving it.

If you’re wanting more top end speed, changing the rear axle ratio is the easiest way to do that. The caveat is to not go to too high of a ratio that you end up lugging the engine. Does your 38 have overdrive? If not, adding an OD trans should be priority number one. When I had my ‘41 Commander, I installed the complete rear axle assembly from a ‘62 Studebaker pickup truck with a 4.09 gear ratio. It was a direct bolt-in swap, nothing needed to be changed. The only discernible difference was that the overall track width of the truck axle was 2” wider, but there was plenty of room in the fenders for tire clearance. Of course the Commander had a Dana 41 axle, and the truck had a Dana 44 axle. But the external dimensions are the same. Spring mounting plates were in the same location, and the stock ‘41 driveshaft and u-joint was retained. I don’t remember if the original axle had a 4.55 or 4.88 gear set, but the 4.09 was a nice improvement. At least, if you’re like me and prefer a car with longer legs. Truck Dana 44 installed in the ‘41 Commander: Truck Dana 44 at the top of the photo. Commander Dana 41 below:

Would like to purchase a 3.91 or 4.09 ring and pinion set for a Dana 41 rear axle. Thank you.

I had these mounted on my 41 Stude. Driven less than 100 miles before I changed to radials. Purchased new in December, 2020.Retail is $250 per tire. Set of 5 cost me $1400 with shipping.$1000 for all 5 and I’ll cover the shipping (lower 48 only). Wheels not included.

Bo, are you working on this yourself? If it’ll help, Stephen has a 1916 4 cylinder touring car that you are more than welcome to come and look at.

That car couldn’t have went to a better home. I’m glad you found a radiator mascot!

I didn’t get much prior history on the car, other than the now deceased previous owner spent the better part of 20 years doing a full body-off restoration in his garage. He started with a rust free car and, while not professionally done, he did a pretty nice job over all. The odometer shows right at 200 miles, and given the car’s overall condition, I’d say that’s accurate mileage since the restoration. It hurts to realize that he spent so many years of his life restoring the car, only to have such an elusive problem and never have the satisfaction of driving the car and enjoying the result of his efforts. Best I can do now is get the old thing on the road where it belongs. I owe the guy that much.

Bloo, you were right on the money to look at the free wheeling clutch. In its resting state, the tension of the springs should keep the roller bearings on the high side of the “ramps” (first photo). If you put the springs in backwards, the tension will keep the roller bearings on the low side of the “ramps” (second photo). And as a result, the rollers don’t “throw out” and engage the drum until the centrifugal force is higher due to higher RPMs.. And when they do catch, you get a “bang” and a very violent engagement. I just made the correction and test drove the car. PROBLEM SOLVED! An operable transmission isn’t a bad Christmas present. Whoever rebuilt the transmission previously made the mistake and I copied it in trying to resolve the issue. But at least now I know how to rebuild an R7 overdrive.

I’m wondering if it’s possible to assemble the roller clutch incorrectly. The cam has 12 “ramps” that drive the roller bearings outward. The roller cage is held in place by 2 tension springs. I assembled the new one the same way as the old one. Now I’m thinking maybe there’s a way to have the spring tension going the wrong way so that the rollers are in the wrong position on the ramps when not in motion. If someone previously assembled it incorrectly and then I copied their mistake, that could explain why the problem persists with all new parts. Not sure if that’s even possible but it’s the best lead I’ve had so far. Thanks for mentioning it, Bloo. — I found a video on YouTube produced in 1952 by Chrysler. It’s a very thorough step by step instructional video on the disassembly of an R10 overdrive. Same principles as the earlier R7. When it gets to the part about the roller clutch, the only advice given in the video is “don’t screw with it”. .

I replaced the freewheeling (roller) clutch, as well as the drum and shaft that it actuates. But I’ll pull it back apart and check. Nothing to lose except some time in the garage and another gallon of gear oil. It needs to come back apart anyway. .

No worries! I’m on a learning curve with this early setup myself. One thing I have learned is that the OD engagement is entirely mechanical/centrifugal. The solenoid is strictly for disengagement when the kick down switch is activated. I did install an NOS solenoid and verified the wiring to be correct just to rule those things out. From the 1941 Studebaker shop manual:

Matt, I’ve owned/driven more cars than I can count with a BW overdrive transmission. I understand the operation and function of the system. I know what to expect from the free-wheeling while driving. Maybe I wasn’t clear in my initial posting. I’ll try to clarify. Break down of what’s happening: Overdrive cable pushed in. Car at a standstill. Let out clutch while in any forward gear - nothing happens. Car acts as if transmission is in neutral. Rev engine while clutch is out and transmission in forward gear - transmission violently engages with no forewarning. —— The car should move forward from a stand still by simply letting the clutch out, regardless of whether or not the OD is engaged or not. The car should not act like it’s in neutral when in a forward gear at a stand still, and then “bang” into gear when revving the engine. If something does break, at least then I’d know what to fix.

I have a ‘41 Studebaker Commander with a Borg Warner T86 and R7 overdrive. The car is a recent acquisition. The previous owner (deceased) finished an extensive body-off restoration about 20 years ago. It was driven 200 miles and sat in his garage since. I think I’ve figured out why. Problem: With the overdrive cable pulled out (OD disengaged), the transmission works flawlessly as a straight 3 speed. With the overdrive lockout cable pushed in (OD engaged), the transmission free-wheels in all forward gears. It’s as though the transmission is in neutral. However, if you give the engine some gas and get the RPMs up, there is a loud BANG and, albeit violently, the transmission engages and the car launches forward. I drove the car down our mile-long driveway and confirmed that the OD is functional at 30+ mph. I have had the OD section apart 4 times and have replaced every single internal component with original NOS parts. The problem persists. Nobody on my contact list has ever seen this problem before and I’m at a loss. Online info and references for the R7 overdrive is nonexistent. I don’t have another transmission to swap in. Anyone have any ideas or insight?

Good for SDC, this seems fair. I’ve never quite understood why the ASC and AOAI both work so hard to remain exclusive from SDC, yet fully expect to tag off of the SDC’s international meets every year and have free access to SDC events. All three of these clubs are in a general state of declining membership. Maybe one day the clubs can merge and be one big happy Studebaker family. Being separate isn’t benefitting anyone. On a similar note; I was a member of ASC a decade ago. As a 20 year old, I joined about a month before attending the National meet in Glendale, AZ. I registered for the SDC meet but not the ASC meet; I was 20 years old and didn’t know any better. Even though I was a brand new ASC member, I was charged a dollar to enter the ASC’s hospitality room, because I wasn’t registered for the ASC meet. (Didn’t seem very hospitable!) If the ASC can charge money to enter their hospitality room to those who didn’t register, then SDC can charge for entrance into their events for the same reason. ——

That photo was taken when it was in Washington state. It was purchased by a guy in South Carolina who did some amateur restoration work on it, and had it running and driving. He sold it and I lost track after that.

We use 600W in the 1916. Seems to work well.

Some of the engine rebuild parts are getting scarce for the Commander Six. Otherwise, just about anything you could possibly need to keep it on the road is readily available. mystudebaker.com