2seater

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About 2seater

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  1. ABS Pressure switch replacement

    Some time ago there was a thread about using the switch that Ford used for the Teves system on the turbo coupes. I would believe it would have a Ford part number if it was the same one but the pinout looks similar to what I remember.
  2. Performance Muffler Applications on Reattas

    It isn't as simple as that. While it is true the '91 has a 5hp greater rating, the entire exhaust system is larger diameter. More than that, it is an L27 engine and not the LN3. Essentially the same engine but uses a tuned port long runner manifold, different throttle body and a different camshaft. Just my opinion, but the 2.25" exhaust is adequate for a normally aspirated 3800. Remove the restriction in the rear manifold, replace the catalytic converter with a modern better flowing unit and install the muffler of your choice. Even if it isn't faster, it will sound like it is
  3. 91 A/C problem

    Pretty sure your a/c is the same as my '90. The air distribution is controlled with vacuum through what is called a programmer, which is located in on the far right side under the dash. It stands up vertically under the dash above the removable panel below the dash. It is black plastic with a cardboard cover on one face. There are vacuum connections on the bottom of the unit. The upper end with the temperature control rod is visible with the glove box liner removed. The most common failure is loss of vacuum feed to the unit, a small black plastic line, which causes air to be discharged primarily from the defrost vents. The vacuum source is from a tee on the engine side of the firewall fed from a line that runs toward the firewall from the vacuum block on top of the intake manifold. It sounds like you have some vacuum present, but there may be a hole or kink in one of the vacuum lines from the programmer. They are all 1/8" colored plastic lines. Do you hear a hissing sound from the right under dash area when the engine is stopped? The programmer itself could be faulty. Did it ever work properly?
  4. 1990 Coupe dies....

    Yes, it should scan if you have the GM plug for OBD-I. The ALDL port is below and to the left of the steering column. There should be a cover over the port which should be replaced after scanning.
  5. 1990 Coupe dies....

    You mentioned the coils are new, what about the ICM below the coils? It can suffer the same temperature related failures as the crank sensor. Check to be certain the plug at the end of the ICM is firmly seated also. The fuel pressure sounds fine, so I doubt that is the issue. If it still stalls when warm, disconnect the MAF sensor and start the engine and see if that helps.
  6. How to Super Clean your windshields

    I finally got around to trying this process. For a windshield previously treated with Rain-X it cleans up very easily, conversely, a windshield that has been "neglected" does require a fair amount of elbow grease to get it polished up. Once done, the difference is pretty dramatic. So far, so good.
  7. WABCO Accumulator

    Interesting. It looks like the Range Rover and TC guys have been down this road for a while.
  8. Brake line

    I know on my '89 that I replaced all of the rear lines with the fuel tank in place, with one caveat. I removed all of the rusting line from the calipers forward to about the drivers seat area. I did the steel fuel lines at that time as well. In any case, I relocated the rear proportioning valve to a more accessible location near the front center of the rear suspension cross member. The connections were the same as stock, just in an easier location to plumb.
  9. Brake line

    I don't know if that is directed at my post but I 100% agree. Perhaps I should have capitalized "VS" in the statement "Way easier to make VS a double flare". The bubble flare is very easy and can even be done in place under the car, which I have done. Yes, the fittings are not interchangeable, although the brake line diameter is standard 3/16".
  10. Brake line

    Be aware many, if not all, of the brake lines may be bubble flares. Way easier to make vs a double flare. I believe the nuts are a light green color, at least the ones I used. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Bubble-Flare-Metric-Thread-276010/dp/B004QS2ZDW
  11. Reatta eclipse sighting

    Sort of a road trip question/sighting. Headed south on hiway 81 in southern Nebraska, after the eclipse: Red/Tan '88 Reatta, ran in the same pack headed south into Kansas for over 1/2hour, 2:30-3:00pm. License was from Reno county KS. Anyone on this forum?
  12. Buick Reatta gap size..?

    That looks pretty normal. It all has to line up with the headlight doors, top and bottom in any case.
  13. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    If the brake accumulator is depleted as per the instructions, by pumping the pedal 25+ times with the key off, there should be essentially zero fluid leakage when the accumulator is removed. There is no need to bleed the brakes after replacement either. The accumulator is sealed by an o-ring, so be sure the original stays with accumulator when removed and there is one in place with the new one. The seal only requires hand tightening of the ball, no need to gorilla it in place. Regarding ROJ: Yes, Ronnie noticed the incorrect wording, which I admit I never picked up on, and corrected it after your concern that there was a conflict.
  14. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    I know I had some difficulty with the concepts myself and was the primary reason I made a test rig to put some numbers to what many owners have observed over the years. There were standardized brake tests developed many years ago and are generally valid, but I guess I wanted more detail as to why. One thing to note is the accumulator will expel all of the fluid it contains as long as the diaphragm is intact and there is even 10psi of pressure remaining. The only way I can measure the volume of the fluid in the accumulator is to use a bench test with a calibrated container to measure the fluid used and compare this to the observed system pressure. I ran all tests multiple times, a total of nine accumulators were tested, including the ones @ Daves89. Additionally six total pressure switches were tested. It is true that the fluid drop tests I did were conducted using my car as the test bed, so it is using a different pump but the accuracy of the pressure switch on my car has been verified more than once with my test gauge. Even if there may be a small difference in the test bed, the trends observed on the test bench were absolutely confirmed. I know the red and yellow dash warning lights are part of the previous test medium but they have zero influence on the actual system pressure and I have found a fair amount of variation in the pressure points for the lights to turn on and off. While it is important the lights work, they are only useful in a peripheral way in diagnosing the system. I encourage everyone to make the simple test gauge and all of the tests (except the actual volume) I did can be performed right on the car without any disassembly except for removing the steel pressure line from the pump and installing the gauge. A helper would be beneficial observing the lights if desired but do not use the brake pedal. For those that have seen this before, I did reconfigure to more easily bleed air from the gauge.
  15. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    This is the thread on the accumulator testing I did a few months ago. Hopefully it will answer your concerns. In short, accumulator systems, such as home well pumps or our brakes, the amount of gas charge is supposed to be close to 1/2 the minimum working pressure. In our case, the working range for the brakes is between 2000-2650psi, so the gas charge should be around 1000psi. Low gas charge allows more fluid to be stored but the stored pressure bleeds down much more quickly. I don't know why this displayed like this but it will get to the thread and you need to scroll back to the beginning.