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About 2seater

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  1. Buick Reatta gap size..?

    That looks pretty normal. It all has to line up with the headlight doors, top and bottom in any case.
  2. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    If the brake accumulator is depleted as per the instructions, by pumping the pedal 25+ times with the key off, there should be essentially zero fluid leakage when the accumulator is removed. There is no need to bleed the brakes after replacement either. The accumulator is sealed by an o-ring, so be sure the original stays with accumulator when removed and there is one in place with the new one. The seal only requires hand tightening of the ball, no need to gorilla it in place. Regarding ROJ: Yes, Ronnie noticed the incorrect wording, which I admit I never picked up on, and corrected it after your concern that there was a conflict.
  3. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    I know I had some difficulty with the concepts myself and was the primary reason I made a test rig to put some numbers to what many owners have observed over the years. There were standardized brake tests developed many years ago and are generally valid, but I guess I wanted more detail as to why. One thing to note is the accumulator will expel all of the fluid it contains as long as the diaphragm is intact and there is even 10psi of pressure remaining. The only way I can measure the volume of the fluid in the accumulator is to use a bench test with a calibrated container to measure the fluid used and compare this to the observed system pressure. I ran all tests multiple times, a total of nine accumulators were tested, including the ones @ Daves89. Additionally six total pressure switches were tested. It is true that the fluid drop tests I did were conducted using my car as the test bed, so it is using a different pump but the accuracy of the pressure switch on my car has been verified more than once with my test gauge. Even if there may be a small difference in the test bed, the trends observed on the test bench were absolutely confirmed. I know the red and yellow dash warning lights are part of the previous test medium but they have zero influence on the actual system pressure and I have found a fair amount of variation in the pressure points for the lights to turn on and off. While it is important the lights work, they are only useful in a peripheral way in diagnosing the system. I encourage everyone to make the simple test gauge and all of the tests (except the actual volume) I did can be performed right on the car without any disassembly except for removing the steel pressure line from the pump and installing the gauge. A helper would be beneficial observing the lights if desired but do not use the brake pedal. For those that have seen this before, I did reconfigure to more easily bleed air from the gauge.
  4. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    This is the thread on the accumulator testing I did a few months ago. Hopefully it will answer your concerns. In short, accumulator systems, such as home well pumps or our brakes, the amount of gas charge is supposed to be close to 1/2 the minimum working pressure. In our case, the working range for the brakes is between 2000-2650psi, so the gas charge should be around 1000psi. Low gas charge allows more fluid to be stored but the stored pressure bleeds down much more quickly. I don't know why this displayed like this but it will get to the thread and you need to scroll back to the beginning.
  5. New Owner Seeks Reatta Tech Help

    As mentioned above, a factory service manual will be a wise investment. Most of the gremlins mentioned are probably normal operation, the radio and windows will work for a time after shutdown and is normal. They will stop as soon as the drivers door is opened. The fuel pump should not run with the key off and you may have a stuck fuel pump relay which is located in one of the fuse blocks on the sides of the console and seeing the passengers side cover missing may give a clue? Nice car.
  6. Brake not functioning properly after rebuild

    3/4" fluid drop is excessive and the accumulator should be replaced. In the case of the accumulator, less drop is desirable, slightly under 1/2" would be normal for a new standard style accumulator. Does the pump run every time the pedal is applied? If so, you need a new accumulator or as mentioned above, there is air in the system.
  7. Fuel line o-rings

    As it turns out I was ordering from Rock Auto for other parts and ordered these as well, and the fit perfectly. Thanks again.
  8. Cruise control again

    The confrontational attitude does not serve well. The adage about vinegar and honey may be old, but it is true nonetheless.
  9. Buick Reatta Ignition Coil Replacement

    Yes, I have the Thrasher article from many years ago, and is what I was referring to. Thanks for the reminder it was quoted in Padgett's tutorial. Always good info to have.
  10. Buick Reatta Ignition Coil Replacement

    Interesting on the Wells improved module. Just an observation from years of posts on this subject. The most common failure is the module on the Magnavox style and the coils on the Delco. I have the article somewhere about the output of the Delco setup, and it is more powerful, but both systems seem to have a less capable link. Both are light years ahead of the old points system with the amount of power and low maintenance.
  11. Accumulator testing w/pressure gauge

    Yes, Dave and I ran through several pump accumulator combinations today. This was my first try with the three indicator lights connected, yellow abs, red pressure and blue for pump switch, which turned out to work pretty well. Thanks to Dave I now have the plugs to connect pump and pressure switch wiring more easily and quickly. I won't detail the results specifically but I did notice the trends of estimated gas pre-charge remain consistent with the amount of fluid pumped in. While we did not find a totally depleted accumulator, there was one that was down in the 150-200 psi range and held the most fluid @ 217ml. and had <12ml within the working range. It definitely would trip the pump on with approx., one pump or less. Two were in the sort of barely acceptable range of 400-500#. We did find one with over 800# of charge and would be acceptable as a decent backup while a new one was procured. This one should yield 2+ pumps and contained about 25ml. in the working range. In conjunction we also tested four pressure switches and including the three tested before, on and off car, all seven total turn the pump on and off within the book values of 2000psi and 2600psi. I have not found a failed pressure switch yet. The other parts of the switch operate the yellow and red warning lights. These were slightly better than the beater switch I was using on my test pump, but fall just slightly low on the pressure required to turn the lights on and right at the low value to turn the lights off. In my opinion they were all good operational switches with the pump operating pressures spot on and the indicator lights very slightly out of range. A small caveat would be that observing the light and pressure at the same time is very difficult as there is always a lag between seeing the light and checking the associated pressure. With this almost doubled sample size, the original conclusions are confirmed and predictable. As Dave can attest, the pumps run a long time before any real action happens on the pressure gauge with a failed accumulator, so it would seem the wear on the pump isn't just from the lack of reserve but also from excessively long run times on startup.
  12. code 031 - do I need to remove transmission?

    Woo Hoo, great news!
  13. A/C bc27-28 readings

    Dave, if you pull a bunch of them, it will be of interest to me to see if you find two different hex sizes and if they will interchange. As I mentioned before, I pulled the sensors from the '89, and testing them indicated they are pretty close to the curve, and each other, but I cannot plug them into the car to see what the BCM thinks :(( Just for reference, the high side sensor is 2.891k @ 24.3*C and the low temp is 2.93k @ 24.2*C. Temp. gun laser on the sensor disc from 6" away but I don't know how tightly aimed the actual sensing beam is?
  14. A/C bc27-28 readings

    I think the solution found is awesome! I pulled the two sensors from my somewhat derelict '89, primarily to check their response to find a good one, but that is likely moot now. The one thing I noticed is the hex size is 27mm, or about 1 1/16", from the '89 which look like the one in these posts. As noted before, the electrical connector on my '90 is completely different (aside from the small difference in location), and the hex is also smaller, 24mm or 15/16", so I am not certain they are interchangeable? Maybe it is like the three different types of crank bolts that all fit the same space? I do have a small question. I know the response is relatively close but for a non-optimized system, that swings between -2*C and 10*C, is there an estimate on how far off the mark they will be?
  15. I just meant I saw the reduced shank bolt but not the wrench size required.