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WHSEWARD

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About WHSEWARD

  • Birthday 09/06/1943

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  1. The tires on my 34 Lincoln are pretty old and should be replaced soon. Today I was told by the Coker Tire chatbot that Lesters in the size I need have been discontinued, and Universal Tire says they are out of stock but may be in stock after the first of the year. Does anyone have any more information on this? Are there any other suppliers besides Firestone in this size? I know blackwalls are available and "correct" for the year but they just don't look right for my dark maroon car, unless I repaint or powder coat the wire wheels in a lighter color, which is an expense I don't want to undertake. Ideas and sources would be welcome.
  2. Hmmm. Split windshield, suicide doors, AND what looks like fabric front seat. I'm guessing a 3-window Berline by Judkins. If so, Model 309-B. They only made 13, so if this car still exists it should be pretty well-known, I would think.
  3. Matt, I've been following your travails with a lot of interest and sympathy for some time now, and I hope I can help with your sidemount issue. I'm not going to tell you the "correct" way to mount your spares, just how I managed (after much swearing and scratched paint trying all sorts of things) to do it. I have a 34 KA Town Sedan so I HOPE the sidemount covers and mounting shoulders are close enough for this to work. First, let most or all of the air out of the spare (which should be one of the crappiest tires of the correct size that you can find). Place the tire face cover on the spare. Then with the covered spare flat on the floor, cover facing up, place the tread cover on the floor and use two tire spoons, one at each end of the cover, to pry the ends of the tread cover apart enough to work the cover directly (horizontally, parallel to the floor) over the tread. A little liquid soap on the tread should help the cover slip over the tread. When the cover finally does slip over the tread, the upper edge of the tread cover should catch the lip on the tire face cover and hold it tightly. Now the fun part. First place some single use plastic bags over the outside of the sidemount well. Then pick up the tire/wheel/cover assembly by the wheel wires and hold the assembly vertical, but don't try to put the assembly in vertically - it won't go. Holding the assembly in the air, tilt the assembly toward you at an angle of 15-20 degrees from the vertical. Then you can slide the bottom of the tire into the well without contacting the sidemount well while clearing the mounting shoulder, and then bring the assembly to the vertical to rest the wheel on the mounting shoulder. Holding the wheel on the shoulder (two guys will come in handy here), screw the bracket into place to hold the tire/wheel assembly firm. Remove the plastic bags. Done. Oh, and once the entire assembly is in place, don't EVER remove it. Maybe someone else has a better way, and I would welcome it if they would come forward, but that's the way I did it, and it worked for me. Good Luck, Bill
  4. Yes, the closed rear quarter makes it a "two-window". Judkins actually used the same body for both two- and three-window Berlines. There's a removable wooden panel in the wooden framing, that can be removed to make the space for the third side window. I found that out when my 31 two-window was restored a few years ago. Selling that car was the worst decision I ever made in the hobby. Oh, well...coulda shoulda woulda kept it...didn't.
  5. They are similar, but the current car has a split front windshield and the correct model number, so I believe the older one is the sedan limousine and the current one is the Berline. Also the paint on the car in the older ad appears to be in considerably better shape than the current car's paint. However, the current car has a very unusual "porthole" rear window, so it may actually be a true one-off job. For comparison, see "https://www.flickr.com/photos/dmentd1/albums/72157621326165079"
  6. I don't post here much, but I felt like I ought to on this one. Admittedly I am a big Model K fan, but to me, this is the real deal. A Judkins 2-window Berline. Kimes and Clark report only 37 of these made for the 1934 model year, which means only a very few left. Yes, it's very rough and the price as it stands may be on the high side, but if you want to throw money at a Full Classic, this may be the one. Mid six figures to restore, though, probably.
  7. I posted a while ago about front suspension parts for my 34 Lincoln KA. I bought the car to show and tour, but the front suspension is loose and I get a shimmy once in a while going down the road. I've had the problem on another Lincoln and a steering stabilizer was the answer, but I know this just covers up the problem - does not fix it. However, there are apparently no front suspension parts available for this car any more, which raises the question - do I replace the entire front end with something that does work, or take the whole thing apart (risking not being able to put it back together) and rebuild it (specifically, re-machine the parts) from scratch. I don't want a restomod, but my options appear to be very limited. Your opinions would be appreciated.
  8. I'm looking for suspension components for my 34 Lincoln KA. Either reproduction or NOS king pin sets, or sources for same, or shops in the Houston TX area that would make these. Any leads are appreciated. Thanks
  9. I recently purchased a 1934 Lincoln KA which was restored in a nice two-tone shade of Maroon, and I wanted to get some touch-up paint in the two colors, "just-in-case". Unfortunately the paint codes for the restoration are no longer available, but I happen to have heard that The Car That Shall Not Be Named is ALSO painted in Ascot Maroon, which from the photos available for that car, looks very similar to the color on mine. I do have the factory Intermix number (IM-1019) for Ascot Maroon for 1934, but as you might expect, the paint chip sheets on the internet are pretty dark. I would like to know the name of a supplier for that paint (single-stage) in that exact shade. My local PPG supplier has tried to be helpful but apparently mixing formulas for these old paints are very scarce, so it would be better if someone had actually obtained the modern paint codes for what went on The Car That Shall Not Be Named, or any other car that has recently been restored with paint having an Intermix number IM-1019. Below is my recent acquisition - compare with pictures in Matt Harwood's post TCWSNBN in this forum. Any help on finding an exact paint match would he appreciated.
  10. I seriously considered buying this car as I have owned a Lincoln K in the past and they are magnificent and very under-appreciated cars. I passed only because I wanted a car that was more turnkey than this one is. The buyer will need to sort the front suspension issues (tie rod ends? king pins? front-end shimmy?), along with replacement of a lot of the window glass and probably some instrumentation issues. All that said, whoever puts the money and time in, will have a car that, according to the Judkins production records, is literally one of one or one of two, and very possibly the last Judkins bodied Lincoln. Ever. For the right owner, a really great bargain.
  11. Seven years ago, I bought a '31 K Judkins Berline, running, driving, rebuilt engine, for the same price. THEN I started throwing money at it. This looks like a very nice parts car, unless you have a WAD of cash you want to sink in it. Then there's the little problem of all those Lincoln Engines just hanging around waiting for you to drive down to the parts store and pick one up.
  12. This 1941 Buick started life as a Model 46S, painted black from the factory. About 20 years ago it was subjected to a frame-off restoration, including an engine rebuild, dual carbs, "batwing" air cleaner, 3.90 rear end. It was repainted the authentic 1941 Spring Color, Aberdeen Beige. The car was converted to 12V and an alternator installed. Vintage A/C has been installed and the cooling system is filled with Evans coolant. The radio buttons are there but the radio has been removed, however a CD player and FM receiver are installed in the glove box along with the A/C controls. The original 6V clockworks were replaced with 12v works behind the original face. The engine-turned dash panels were replaced by woodgraining - not correct but pretty and consistent with the rest of the interior trim. Recent mechanical/cosmetic work includes: Transmission and clutch rebuilt Rear end repacked Carpets cleaned and reinstalled Carburetors adjusted Oil and filter changed Tachometer installed A/C system recharged Valve springs replaced and valves adjusted New period-correct battery installed The 6.50 x 16 Firestone tires are NOT new, but look decent and ride well; the spare has never been on the car. The car starts right up, runs and drives like a Buick should. Smooth uptake through the gears, smooth and confident stopping. The car runs at 180 degrees in most weather, however in Texas summer with the A/C on it runs hotter (190-200F). But it does not vapor lock and won't boil over, and starts even when hot. Oil pressure is 40-50 pounds at startup, 30 pounds during warmed-up driving, and 15-20 pounds at hot idle. Currently, the car is garaged and is driven about 5-10 miles once per week. Perfect? Nope. There are minor imperfections in the paint and upholstery as one would expect from touring and driving in the 20 some-odd years since restoration, with some discoloration on the interior rear deck behind the rear seat. You can see that the steering wheel has not been recast. All that said, the car is a great little driver; it comes with manuals and receipts from the restoration and subsequent maintenance work. The car is offered on an as-is, where-is, basis, without warranty, and shipping is the responsibility of the buyer, however I would welcome personal inspections (by appointment, please) and additional questions about the car. Asking: $24,500 Very Negotiable
  13. That you, Mike? Headed to Australia. No reasonable offers here, unfortunately.
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