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90 speakers


Richard S
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Just finished replacing the front and rear speakers on my 90. Still using the stock radio, and, temporarily the stock wiring. The difference is astonishing. The rear are 6 X 9, 4 ohm, 400 peak/200 rms, 60 oz magnet with separate 2.5 midrange and and both dome and piezo tweeters. Sensitivity is 94 db. These were very inexpensive speakers, under $40 a pair. Fronts are new speakers I have had in the garage for years. Can't even remember what project they were for. They are 5.25", 50 watt with 20 oz magnet and dome tweeter. I retained the stock tweeter running off the tweeter wire of the new speaker. The plastic mount for the door speakers had to be modified to handle the much larger magnet. As I say, the sound is vastly improved, and greater gains are likely when the very small guage wire is replaced. Robert, whom I thank with a grimace, will have me stranding wire for the next few years.

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Wufibug; Over the years I have been tweaking my audio video equipment and often I would have to strain to hear a perceived improvement. With the braided cat 5 cable there was an <B>immediate huge</B> improvement. Called my wife in and she also could immediately notice a huge improvement. Personally I braided 3 cat 5 cables (4 pairs each as per TNT) in the outer sheathing. I did not braid the individual pairs. This will go fast and should take less than an hour compared to 20 to 30 hours for the other method. <P>You have to do it for your home system also, Robert<p>[ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Drive it like I stole it. ]

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Robert, kidding aside, I wanted to thank you for the tip and the website. I too will use the shortened method, only because I don't have that kind of patience for that kind of job. Will do the stereo in the house also. I have rear speakers for the home system. That would be an awfully long run. Do you think there a maximum distance this wiring setup can be adapted to?

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My front speakers use about 17 feet of wire. amp to floor, through floor, across door way, up through floor and to speakers and they are incredible. Teflon insulation is most important. Good luck, Robert

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I installed a system in my '90 coupe over the summer. Started with a Alpine head unit. Then I added MB Quart componets in the doors and rear deck powered by an Xtant amp. In the trunk sits a pair of JL audio 12" W6's(dual voice coil sub) also powered by a Xtant amp. The sound is equalized and enhanced by Audio Control componets. Sure it's not the hardest bass hitting car in town, but the clarity is excelent. At a stereo competition I enetered, I was hitting a 141.1 dB. I had friends leaned up against the doors hard and I was layin' across the trunk tryin' to keep the airpressure in the car for a higher reading. I cheated, so what. I'm sure burkieboy's friend MAMA will have something to say about that. cool.gif" border="0

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Appears you have installed a very competitive system in your car. Since I have several cars, have to "spread the wealth" around. My demands are more mundane. I like my music to have clarity and realistic sound at only slightly higher volumes. Guess I think I just don't have the right to make the windows in the next guy's car vibrate. Since it is relatively inexpensive to achieve substantial improvements over the stock system, that's where I was aiming. Robert's hint on wiring is the kind of stuff I love: Put in a little effort and small investment, get noticeable results.

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