Trailer Height Requirement

[bferg]

I will be buying an enclosed, bumper pull car hauler within the next few months and have a questions for those who ?have been there, done that?. I will be hauling a pickup the height of which is 6?6? (top of cab). How much extra height do I need, above 6?6?, to allow for a little bounce as I traverse over yet unknown roads? I realize that unnecessary extra trailer height will adversely affect fuel mileage. Also, should I be concerned about rear door opening height? Or will the ?angle of entry? factor keep me in safe territory as far as door opening? The wheel base for the truck is 125?. Thank you for your input.

[progoofoff]

If the rear door lets down and becomes the ramp, the height of the rear door is the key. If it will go under the door header, the ceiling will be higher.

[Jay Wolf]

I agree usually the door is at least 6 inch lower that the ceiling height.

[bferg]

Yes but - after the front wheels pass the threshold of the door and as the top of the cab approaches the door, at that point, 6'6" is no longer required. It would be less than 6'6". It seems to me the door would unlikely be a problem. How much EXTRA HEIGHT is required INSIDE the trailer to allow for bounce without adding unnecessary fuel costly height?

[novaman]

There are two ways to figure it.

A) If you tie the vehicle down like they do on auto transporters, you tie the vehicle down by the frame. You will have no bounce, as the springs will be compressed.

if you tie the vehicle down by the axles/wheels, If you take a measurement from the bottom edge of the fender on both the front and rear wheel openings, then jack the truck up using the frame (front and rear) and letting the axle hang, to the point the tire is just barely off the floor, measure again. This will give you the max. the shocks will allow it to travel. That differance will be the absolute min. space needed. I'd make sure to have a little extra room.

Also think about the possiblilty of loading at night and if you would want some light in there. if you put lights on the ceiling, don't forget about head room while walking inside the trailer.

I'd still be concerned about the door opening. Think about parking at a show.

If you park in a place where the rear door/ramp is paralell with the floor 6'6"(+ a little) opening would be fine.

If the ramp is at a steeper angle that would work too, until steep enough the truck frame rubs the floor. (That'd be a really steep angle for most stock trucks).

If you're parked where the door won't open to a paralell angle to the floor (causing a "v" shape), that 6'6" (+ a little) opening won't cut it anymore.

[Packard enthus.]

I am embarssed..heck..ASHAMED to admit I have started "trailering" my collector car on the longer trips. I know..I know...many of you older folks remember how I used to say "if you cant drive em..junk em"...but age and driving conditions have forced me to join the trailer set.

My experience with a "box" trailer ( the typical kind we car buffs buy when we start getting paranoid about vandalism and road damage when going to out-of-state events) has been very satisfactory, with the following warning -

BOUNCING

Yes, you do have to worry about the vehicle moving around inside. The trailer I purchased did NOT have tie-down rings, apparently, only the more expensive ones do. Drill through the floor into the CENTER of one of the trailer's support frames, and install HEAVY "eye" rings so you can strap your vehicle down with any of the "winch" type fabric straps you can buy at most auto parts and building supply stores. I also "chock" my wheels.

WEIGHT

The typical lower-cost box trailers have floors of 3/4 in think OSB. I think that is a bit light for the weight of most collector vehicles - The wheels of my 1930's era collector car actually broke thru the floor after hitting a bad bump at speed. The stuff looses what strength it had, when it gets wet. I recommend you put down either steel plates, a plank, or at least 1" thick plywood, that over-lies at least TWO frame members (the typical box trailer has sub-frame members around 24" apart) so that each wheel's weight is transferred directly to a trailer sub-frame member.

I strongly recommend you spend about fifty bucks to replace the typical cheapo stop-turn lights that come with most of the lower-priced box trailers, with the latest "LED" types. MUCH brighter - hopefully, will reduce the possibility of a "rear ender" given modern road speeds.