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Finally, some progress!


jaredthegeek

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I´ve finally sourced a longblock for my 89 Reatta... the catastrophic oil loss originally attributed to a thrown rod was in fact a loose oil filter! Of course the resultant loss of pressure sounds like it may have hosed a few main bearings (box of marbles sound when running, and it´s not the harmonic dampener). Anyway, got a supposedly good motor from an 88 Park Ave (also LN3), now to get the old lump out of the way.

Any insights on removal and/or reinstallation would be greatly appreciated, particularly from local (Long Island, NY) Reatta fans <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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Guest Greg Ross

Two approaches, remove the hood and pull from the top, or

drop the cradle from beneath. That option requires a hoist to do it safely plus hardware that the average driveway mechanic does not have access to.

Dropping the cradle also involves the six cradle bushings/ mounts that, based on your locale in the Salt Belt will be quite a surprize.

Best approach I would suggest is blosking the car up if you don't have access to a hoist for 2-3 days, Plan how you're going to do the lifting safely and start wrenching.

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I've got an engine hoist and jackstands... I had initially planned on removing the hood and separating the motor from the trans in-car, then hoisting the motor with the trans in-situ. So far so good, except that I'm not quite clear on removing the A/C compressor without opening the system and removing the lines.

As for the Salt Belt bit, the car's a Texas car that only was up in NY here for half a winter. No rust whatsoever aside from the battery tray, which is prompting me to install a sealed batt next.

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Did Bonneville from the top. Remove hood first then pull radiator so you have a place to put the a/c compressor (do not need to disconnect a/c hoses). Only real gotcha is the one trans bolt you reach from over the oil filter with three-four feet of extensions (see service manual and follow the steps is best way).

When everything is off or loose you should be able to pull near straight up (why manifold outlet is so short).

Lot easier with two or three people. Too bad so far away, have one 3800 that just needs a block and cam (spun cam bearings).

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Naturally you should have a Manual for the Reatta. I've also found that a copy of the Haynes manual (Manual #19020) for model years 1985-2002 comes in handy.

If you want to keep your manual clean you can scan and print out the pertinent pages and pin them to your garage wall for easy access and, or, use magnets and stick them to the body of the car. I would certanly do this for the page containing the fastner torque settings. You do have a torque wrench don't you?

Unless you have another Reatta handy, I suggest taking photos of the engine and connections to aid in re-assembly. If you're like me, re-assembly shortly after teardown is easy because it's still fresh in your mind. But, after several days to a week or more and things get a little fuzzy. When starting the last engine pull that I did I thought I'd be done in three days max. It was a month and a half later before I turned the ignition key. Started out just wanting to change out the leaking freeze plug (only accessable by separating the engine from the Tx and lifting it up to get to it). Then found that the rear head gasket had been breached so, decided to replace that, then... anyway, you get the idea.

While on the subject of freeze plugs, you may want to replace them on the engine that you're dropping in. The steel ones in my 89 Rivi. started to leak after 17 years. I used the standard steel ones as replacements because I didn't think that the Rivi. would see another 17 years. But, if you plan on hanging on to the Reatta or just want to do the right thing, then I'd suggest the brass plugs. A little more expensive but not by much. Your call.

If your AC system has been converted to 134a already, just purge the system and disconnect the lines at the compressor. It's WAY easier than unbolting the compressor from the engine bracket. Then recharge the system when done.

Don't forget an ample supply of your favorite beverage and snacks, a stack of your favoite CD's and if it's a detached garage... a pot to p*ss in. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

post-67519-143137908801_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the tips guys. I pulled the motor myself from a Park Ave of the same year, so I know about the hidden tranny bolt. Wound up going across from the passenger side wheelwell with 3ft of extensions. My AC system is still running on R12, although it does work, and I dont have access to any recovery equipment, so I´d really rather not crack it open if I can avoid it.

Don´t have a paper service manual ( I have the PDF files), but I am documenting everything as it comes apart. Done this to several motorcycles thus far, and the only differences are the size of the components and the fact that there are more of them.

Back to the wrenching! (garage within wifi range is priceless <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> )

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F14~ No, the tranny is staying in. The old motor is being rebuilt in order to be supercharged like yours, then reinstalled next summer or thereabouts. I´m following your performance upgrades with quite a lot of interest <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Maybe I´ll even get around to putting a computer in it!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's ALIVE!! The junkyard ParkAve 3800 fires, runs and drives quite nicely, though I have not stressed it at all yet. A few remaining issues in the process of resolving...

1. Ignition lock actuator rack is broken. Local dealer says it's discontinued...anyone out there with a salvage Reatta got this?

2. There's a sensor in the oil pan on the Reatta that doesn't exist on the ParkAve, and I didn't switch oil pans. So far the Reatta hasn't complained, but I don't know what sensor it is.

3. ABS light is on...does this occur at low brake fluid levels? I think I need to top it off...are there some Teves-specific tidbits I need to be aware of here?

I LOVE this car!!

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> 1. Ignition lock actuator rack is broken. Local dealer says it's discontinued...anyone out there with a salvage Reatta got this?

</div></div>

Are you talking about this? [color:"red"] See Attached

post-67519-143137908812_thumb.jpg

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"ABS light is on" - just the yellow in which case you need to pull codes or the red and the yellow which means the boost circuit is not working properly. Just the red is usually the parking brake not fully released.

BTW if the trans from the PA is still there, you should grab it. The half-shaft splines are different from later (89-91) transmissions.

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I had two of them break. Don't know why. Bought the part from local Buick dealer. Can't remember the price. I was trying to locate the post regarding this but, the search function won't let me go back past the beginning of this year (2006). See attachment for diagram. That sucker is burried in there. Good luck.

post-67519-14313790882_thumb.jpg

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Thank you. Thought it was last year that I replaced this part.

Also, I see now that the attachment isn't showing up in either this post or the post from the past. When I try to upload it, all seems well but when I go to view it, it does't show up. I'll figure it out later. Too tired now. G'night.

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