jaredthegeek

My coworker is heavily in favor of the full-frame idea, though I think it might be difficult to do because of the unibody structure. I am leaning more toward a WRC-style seam weld and cage/gusset job. I like the AWD idea in principle, but in practise, are the GM driveline components sturdy enough to stand up to non-stock power levels? Particularly in the case of forced induction and/or more cylinders? OFF-REATTA-TOPIC: Here´s a link to a gent in the UK who´s done a twin-turbo EFI V8 http://www.mez.co.uk/index.html

The choice of the V8 was mostly an ease-of-use angle...parts availability and tuner knowledge. I am planning on a twin-turbo setup with one snail per bank, regardless of whether we wind up using a 3.8 or a V8 of some nature. Hadn't even thought of the 455 Buick as we figured a big-block wouldn't fit anyhow. We are planning a custom propane-powered setup (who needs a trunk on a hotrod?), with fallback to a Megasquirt-driven EFI rig if propane turns out to be a bust. As far as possible, we will be adhering to the time-honored Q-ship principle... As externally stock as humanly possible! Well, ok, perhaps some fender flaring to cover larger rubber, and the exhaust routing is still up in the air due to lack of underbody space. This is a Very Long Term type of project. My son is 7 months old now, so I figure by the time he is ready to start learning auto-shop, I can at least have the chassis mods done :-) By then emissions regs will probably be tight enough to necessitate an alternative fuel to pass.

Bringing up an old thread, but this caught my eye. I may eventually (barring sale/donation/wife calling a tow truck) perform this exact conversion on my 89. A coworker knows someone with a fab shop and has NASCAR-style frame-building experience himself. The thing we have been kicking around is: 1. Complete gut down to the sheet metal, seam-weld the unibody and cage/brace 2. New front subframe to accomodate unpowered front wheels (likely using a Camaro front clip since that´s what the fab guy likes), and a front-to-back motor mounting setup 3. Gut the brakes and go with an aftermarket non-abs setup. Wilwood is nice. 4. Motor TBD, my coworker is a SBC fan and thinks a nice LT1 would be the ticket though 5. T56 trans, likely from a Camaro 6. Vette IRS rear (though my coworker thinks a Ford 9inch on a custom 4-link would be easier) 7. Some form of side exhaust, my coworker wants lake pipes, I am thinking more along the lines of the NASCAR flat/rectangular-section things 8. Flush inset headlights OR low-profile pop-ups with a different actuating mechanism. The steering rack was something I hadn´t thought about, but I would guess it could be moved up the firewall to clear the transmission, and the linkages extended. Interior: Factory dash top, perhaps factory seats, but no electronics. I am a sucker for a nice set of analog clocks. Also eliminates the interoperability hangup trying to make stock parts work. Simpler is better, IMO. I want to keep the airplane cockpit feel, hence reusing the stock dash/console housings. Inspiration: the KiMini (http://www.kimini.com), a carbon-shelled, tube-framed, rear-engine Mini with a Honda Prelude lump out back. And why do all this? Because my (now 7-month old) son and I are going to build a car as he grows up, and this seems like it could be a nice long-term project :-). That and we would be very unlikely to see another V8-powered rwd Reatta tooling about NY. Track events or autocrosses would definitely be on the menu as well.

Rawja~ I actually drive by there twice weekly...I work on LI but live in Binghamton (in the process of moving off LI). Thanks for the tip! F14~ OK, did my research. The ones I´m seeing tons of are L27´s with the plastic plenum (a Series 1 motor that -should- be bolt-compatible. The L67 is a Series II motor that may not bolt up. I could scare up a Series I supercharged, perhaps. Gotta love Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_3800_engine)

Well, that was short. My junkyard ParkAve motor is starting to make knocking noises and the oil pressure at 1875rpm is down around 20-25psi and fluctuating, not to mention seeping from nearly everywhere there is a gasket. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I was hoping to make it through the winter before starting on the mods...this is my daily driver when the weather´s not conducive to motorcycling. What other 3800´s will bolt into the Reatta? LN3´s are sort of scarce in my favorite u-pull, but there are loads of the plastic-plenum ones (are these L27´s?). Can the earlier-model supercharged L67 bolt up to our Reatta mounts and transaxle? Mostly trying to determine bolt-compatibility here...other stuff can come later.

I'm debating putting black wheels on my white '89. Either that or white wheels...I haven't decided yet. Planning on either a 16" or 17" set of Rota Slipstreams...they're light, relatively inexpensive as wheels go, and readily available as the import guys love 'em. Had a set on my Civic back in my rice rocket days <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I'm not sure about the manual, but the oil pressure switch (that's what I assume it is anyway...looks like one) is on top of the oil filter housing, and the level sensor is on the forward (front bumper) side of the oil pan. Why is it you need to find them in the manual? Getting wierd readings?

I´m considering making mine into a semi-replica of GM´s RWD prototype, complete with Vette IRS, 5 or 6spd stick, and a turbocharged built-up 3.8. Oh, and some form of car-puter (thanks F14 for the inspiration!) Can´t quite figure out how to control the peripherals (primarily climate) if I gut the stock instrumentation and ECM, but I´m sure something will turn up. Once I actually have a garage to work out of, this´ll get out of the planning stages but for now it´s just research time. Crazy? Sure. But it´s been done before <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Anyone know what sort of spring rate we´re looking at for the stock springs? A coworker who used to race NASCARish things turned me on to a local spring supply house, who can do custom-rate leaf and coil springs to specs. Spring rate, coil diameter and free height/number of coils is I think the data they´d need. I am interested in some better suspenders for my 89 and this could be a workable option.

padgett~ I´m using the stock Reatta trans...what will the PA trans give me? I´m new to GM´s and easily confused <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Re: the abs light, it´s yellow and intermittent. Hasn´t been on the past few times I´ve driven the car.

Yeah, that´s the one. Do they do that often? Seems I´ve seen the same problem on here before.

It's ALIVE!! The junkyard ParkAve 3800 fires, runs and drives quite nicely, though I have not stressed it at all yet. A few remaining issues in the process of resolving... 1. Ignition lock actuator rack is broken. Local dealer says it's discontinued...anyone out there with a salvage Reatta got this? 2. There's a sensor in the oil pan on the Reatta that doesn't exist on the ParkAve, and I didn't switch oil pans. So far the Reatta hasn't complained, but I don't know what sensor it is. 3. ABS light is on...does this occur at low brake fluid levels? I think I need to top it off...are there some Teves-specific tidbits I need to be aware of here? I LOVE this car!!

F14~ No, the tranny is staying in. The old motor is being rebuilt in order to be supercharged like yours, then reinstalled next summer or thereabouts. I´m following your performance upgrades with quite a lot of interest <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Maybe I´ll even get around to putting a computer in it!

Thanks for the tips guys. I pulled the motor myself from a Park Ave of the same year, so I know about the hidden tranny bolt. Wound up going across from the passenger side wheelwell with 3ft of extensions. My AC system is still running on R12, although it does work, and I dont have access to any recovery equipment, so I´d really rather not crack it open if I can avoid it. Don´t have a paper service manual ( I have the PDF files), but I am documenting everything as it comes apart. Done this to several motorcycles thus far, and the only differences are the size of the components and the fact that there are more of them. Back to the wrenching! (garage within wifi range is priceless <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> )

Nevermind the Reatta ECM, how much boost will the block and crank take? Rods and pistons are more easily upgradeable to swing higher boost levels. I'd love to see something on the order of a Megasquirt box running a true multiport EFI turbo setup, and an interface back into the Reatta BCM/display would truly be icing on the cake!