"Toybox" trailer project (4)

[Guest]

Barry,

We have had a moment of "personal growth". Group hug.

http://spartantrailer.com/

Your Spartan-ers will soon come'a calling on your well crafted trailer, which will be converted back to a full camper someday.

Me thinks, your trailer will be a antique Kustom some 50 years from now.

The tow vehicle will be the guy in streamliner, that sold for 1.4 million.

Do laugh at my airstream, when you see the toilet is just a board with a hole in it, and you can watch the road as you poop.

[Barry Wolk]

Thanks for sharing that Tommy. You really made my day.

[Barry Wolk]

BTW, Tommy, that's a picture of a Spartanette Tandem. It also had two axles but was only 25 feet long. The body on my ROYAL Spartanette is 32-feet and the doors are both on the curb side. The tandem was unusual in that the doors were on opposite sides.

[Guest]

Barry,

Why are "we" spending all this money on a graphic, when you can buy it on ebay for $42 bucks?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-T...sspagenameZWDVW

Let's not re-invent the wheel.

[Barry Wolk]

Tommy,

Can you say "cheesy"? That logo is 19" long. My logo is 52" long. Mine makes a statement. Their's is a whimper.

Besides, you worried I'm spending your inheritance?

[Guest]

this is true, I did not look that closely.

Barry, I am under the impression that you are not told "no" very offen.... such is the way of "BIG" people.

Luckly for me, and my health, I am 1000 miles away, managing your project from my cubical.

Now let's meet that dead line or your out!

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Barry, I am under the impression that you are not told "no" very often.... such is the way of "BIG" people.</div></div>

No? What is this word NO? I always understood that to mean Normally Open.

There are advantages and disadvantages to being my size. Honestly, I think the advantages do outweigh the disadvantages. However, have you ever tried to find a shirt with a 38" sleeve?

You work in a cubicle? That means you work with other people?

[West Peterson]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wasn't thinking when I saw your sign guy starting the logo. the side should have been sanded first (just where the logo is painted, using a template) so there would have been some rough texture for the paint to stick to. Wish I'd have paid better attention. </div></div>

I, too, am curious as to why the surface wasn't "scuffed" first before applying paint. Was that just an overlook? Usually, just rubbing with one of those 3M scouring pads or 00 grade steel wool is enough to give the surface enough of a tooth that the paint can attach to.

[DizzyDale]

There is also a material that signpainters use to apply first when lettering glass windows[pre vinyl days].Not much i can think of that has less BITE than glass .diz

[R Walling]

Hydrofluoric acid will "bite" into glass and alum for a better grip.(something like fine sandblasting)

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

those 3M scouring pads or 00 grade steel wool </div></div>

My experience is never, never, use steel wool for non-ferrous metals, if they're going to be outdoors.

Don't use steel wire wheels on stainless, either.

Be bought a scupture by an artist named Boban. It's made of Onida stainless steel spoons. We were assured it was safe outdoors. It immediately rusted. The artist drove in from Chicago and cleaned the sculpture. It rusted again. He made us a new one (this was getting expensive for him) made from spoons delivered right from Onida, his sponsor. The new sculpture rusted, too.

I then put two and two together. They were using iron wire brushes and bits were being embedded in the stainless each time they cleaned it. The bits rusted making it appear that the stainless had rusted. The same thing will happen if you use an iron or steel wire brush on aluminum.

[DizzyDale]

The SCOURING pads that West mentioned are 3M scotchbrite pads[man made material],red or grey,2 different grades used in bodyshops for scuffing blend panels and parts that are curved that require a flexible sanding pad.diz

[Barry Wolk]

I mentioned your comments and the painter said that scuffing would be insufficient to ensure adhesion. Sandblasting would work but that would entail using two sets of templates as the sandblasting process would leave a ragged edge on the first mask.

[Amphicar BUYER]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I mentioned your comments and the painter said that scuffing would be insufficient to ensure adhesion. Sandblasting would work but that would entail using two sets of templates as the sandblasting process would leave a ragged edge on the first mask. </div></div>

Barry - What about using some chemical metal prep? Spaek with most any bodyman or body/paint supply place about its use. Using a vinyl template to mask off the area would make it easier to apply. You could maybe cover the final artwork with the same clear material as they use for the "clear bras" to protect it from road hazards and scratches.

[Barry Wolk]

Chemical prep etches the metal. It is impossible to keep it from seeping under the mask, ruining all the polishing I've done. Vinyl will work just fine.

I'll be posting more interior pictures soon. The interior wood installation is almost done.