Engine rebuilding......help needed.

[Guest beescarbuff]

My 1935 Chrysler Imperial C-2 needs to have the engine rebuilt. Would appreciate suggestions on parts location, rebuilding items to look out for, and just general do's and don'ts. I may be reached at RussBees@msn.com

[JFranklin]

look up Egge machine in California

[mrpushbutton]

After dissasembly, send the block,head,and pans to a chemical stripping place that uses the akline solution + electrical current process, like Chem-strip. Get that block SURGICALLY clean--this process does this. It removes any rust, especially from cooling passenges. The minute you get the block back from them mount it on an engine stand, final degrease everthing, blowing out all oil passenges. Get some two part Epoxy primer like DP-90 and with a chip brush paint all of the rough (non machined flat)surfaces, inside and out. make sure to paint the inside of the cooling passenges. If you can't get to much of the back side of the cylinders (kinda hard to through the little freeze plug holes), leave a small pool of primer in the bottom of the cooling passenges, place tape over where the water distribution plate goes and tumble-turn the block on the stand to distribute paint. If you have a cherry picker or chain fall it helps to lift the block by each end after the horizontal tumble. I can't stress enough how important the Chem-strip is: pre-war engines were run on water and alcohol, or just water, depending on local climate, and that has left rust all thru the cooling passenges. I have rebuilt engines that had chronic overheating trouble, didn't like to cool in stop-and-go traffic, can't handle a parade, and really hated going from freeway speeds to surface street speeds. after "the treatment" they started cold, came up to the temp maintained by the thermostat, and stayed there, no matter what. No more overheating, no more burping up coolant. Just pleasurable driving, regardless of conditions.

[rockyc]

I found Andy Bernbaum at oldmoparts.com to have many rebuild NOS components (pistons, bearings, etc) for my '36 C9 straight 8. You might also think about modernizing it to handle unleaded gas (new hard seats and new alloy valves) while you're at it. I would also suggest you have the crankshaft precisely balanced. These straight 8 engines should run very smooth, and balancing is important to the overall operating vibration.

[mrpushbutton]

Rocky--good advice. Go to your local lawn equipment store and get a small bottle of Briggs and Stratton valve guide pre-lube. They are, of course still making flathead engines, and this stuff guards against fuel/air mix washing oil off of the valve stems, and protects the exhaust valve stems from heat. Smear some on each valve stem prior to assembly. Also:

Have your Distributor re-bushed, it's worn out too

same goes for your starter, generator and water pump--they have as many miles as the worn parts inside your engine. The reward for this is trouble-free motoring. Taking those items off of the worn engine, putting them on a shelf and putting them back on the newly rebuilt engine is like putting on your dirty clothes (and undies) after a shower!