'98 Century tuneup, brake, and gas filter questions.

[Bucent98]

Haven't posted in some time, but knew I'd be back. Anyway I had my oil changed today as I usually do at 3000K miles or less and one of the mechanics said it was time to change my fuel filter which he suggested be changed every 30K miles. My Century has 46K.

I asked him how much the filter was and I think he said around $34. I thought to myself that's high and told him not to change it at this time. I didn't expect a fuel filter to be that high. Any comments on how important it is to change at 30K mile intervals? Why are they so expensive? I should be able to do it myself easy enough eh?

Also after 46K city miles how long can that car go before the brakes need to be done? I'm ok for now and don't hear any noise such as the indicators squealing, but wonder how much time I have. And about how long can I go before a tuneup is needed and can the plugs be changed without lifting the engine? I appreciate the help. Kevin

[Guest sixpack2639]

I don't know where he buys his parts from but i'd like to so I know not to go there. The fuel filter for your Buick is between 7 and 14 bucks depending on manufacturer. You definitly should change it every 30k or oftener depending on usage (hard driving, dirt roads traveled,etc.). As far as brakes goes it depends on your driving habits and how much city driving you do. I just did front pads on my Mom's 2000 Pontiac at 57k and she does mostly city driving. Carl

[JohnD1956]

I would think you can do this filter job yourself. It is probably under the car, and threaded to the line on one end, but with a neat pushbutton clip on the other end, They say you have to discharge the line first. This usually means pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and then cranking the engine. However I have disconnected the line on several cars after they have sat for a while and never had a real problem. Of course I always use eye protection just in case of spraying fuel.

[Reatta Man]

Yep, changing the fuel filter is now like changing the oil regularly--cheap insurance!

Granted, you don't have to change it every 3,000 miles--30K sounds about right.

As for the price, the difference between the part store price and the quickie lube price is called PROFIT. Why do you think these lube joints check EVERY fluid and try to sell you additional maintenance? There's virtually no profit on $25-30 oil changes.

By the way, you probably need to do the air filter, too.

Joe

[NTX5467]

The key thing in the fuel filter quote was if that was "parts and labor, approximately" or just for the part. If it was just for the filter, that is a little pricey, especially for an aftermarket filter by itself. If it was for parts and labor, then it'd be about right.

By observation, if you break the fuel line open right after you stop the motor, it'll have a good bit of pressure built up. If, as mentioned, you let it sit for a while, the pressure can decrease. Can be the difference in a "gas spray" moment or just a dribble. If you have a place to do it, get somebody to show you the tricks. If not, let somebody else do it and make sure they do it--and use an OEM quality filter.

When the filter starts having too much internal restriction (for whatever reason), the fuel pump has to work harder to get the fuel through it (pressure and volume). That means extra heat that can also make the fuel pump draw more current throuth the wiring in the fuel pump module--which can lead to melted wiring insulation AND the need for a new fuel pump module ($500.00, p&l, later). If you start hearing a high pitched whine from under the car in the area of the fuel tank, get that filter changed IMMEDIATELY. That's one of the first signs that the pump is having to work too hard. If "extended crank time" happens, you might as well get ready to open the check book or activate the plastic . . .

Also, with a 16 gallon tank, 1/4 tank = 4 gallons of fuel in it and 1/8 tank = 2 gallons. NEVER let the tank get completely empty nor run out of gas. That can be a quick way to kill an in-tank electric fuel pump in short order--regardlesss of how new it might be.

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[Reatta Man]

NTX,

Good, sound advice. The only thing I forgot to include in my post is the importance of an OEM filter.

Let me add to that and make the warning even stronger. DO NOT USE A FRAM FILTER! Go with AC Delco, and if you can't find that, go with a Wix filter.

Joe

[Bucent98]

Men thanks for your replies. The $34 quoted at the oil shop was for parts and labor. Now I say that's not bad at all, but someone here said to use OEM parts.

This morning I decided to take it to my dealership and have them do the work. More expensive yes, but I'm glad I had it taken care of. I may be in my 40's, but It's hard for me to crawl under the car and then make an attempt to do it myself.

The fuel filter at the dealership came to $24.95, but the labor was $40 for a half hour. I've never changed any fuel filters myself since the 70's and 80's when the cars were older and easier to work on.

The brakes I may not have to worry about for another year. I don't drive much, but all the mileage is in the city. I do keep on top of the maintenance and have already had the battery, belt, transaxle, radiator, and air filter changed or serviced not too long ago.

I have to admit I never thought about the fuel filter though. Glad I took some advice here on that. Thanks. Kevin