Pilot bearing vs pilot bushing

[brad54]

Looking for some advise: One of the rivets on the clutch face gave up on my '54 Special. The metal shavings created from the sprung clutch hitting the flywheel ended up in the pilot bearing, which then ate itself. I didn't realize this, and continued to drive the car, thinking the trans would occasionally just not go into gear because the shifter linkage wasn't adjusted. And Second was always a bit finicky, and with no synchros for first, it wasn't uncommon to go second, get everything lined up with those synchros and then into first to take off. Finally realized there was a problem with the clutch, bought a new one and pressure plate, and pulled the engine for what I thought would be an easy one-day clutch r&r and linkage rebuild with new bushings, sleeves in the holes, new cotter pins, etc. Then the little balls from the bearing started rolling down the driveway, and I discovered the input shaft on the trans was way, way sloppy (it wasn't when I put in the new clutch earlier.)<BR>It's been sitting while I build my '57 wagon, but does anyone see a reason I can't put in a nice bronze bushing in place of the (sure to be expensive) pilot bearing when I get the heart to start back in on it?<BR>Thanks.<BR>-Brad

[NTX5467]

In recent history, with Chevy V-8s specifically, the pilot bearing that was used was the oilyte bronze bushing. When the 6.2L diesel V-8s came out, they had a roller bearing of the same size for a pilot bearing. That particular pilot bearing was the exact same dimensions as the previous pilot bushing. In later years, the pilot bearing has replaced the pilot bushing. That scenario would lead me to suspect that a pilot bearing would be a heavier duty situation than the bushing.<P>In the case of what you have, everytime the clutch comes out, the end of the input shaft that goes into the pilot bearing/bushing should probably receive a little grease on it for good measure, but we probably know how often that happens.<P>You could probably use a bronze bushing in place of the bearing if you desire and can find someone to make/adapt one for you. But it might be easier, cheaper, and more expeditious to just put the correct bearing in there (sufficiently lubed) and be done with it.<P>In some of the 1990s S-10 4cylinder applications, they use a larger "spacer" or "adapter" to hold the pilot bushing. Spacer goes into the hole in the end of the crank and then the bushing is installed into the spacer. Depending on the dimensions of what you need, starting with a spacer situation (as I have mentioned) and then finding a suitable bronze bushing might be quicker and cheaper than trying to get a machinist to start from scratch doing something he hasn't done before. Not to mention being cheaper too. I still favor putting the correct parts back in there though.<P>Just some thoughts . . .<BR>NTX5467

[The Old Guy]

The pilot bearing is not expensive. You can find the number on the shell ,and check a bearing supply. If I remember right it is a 99503,and it shouldn't cost over $10.00.I use the ZZ99503,as it is a sealed bearing.