Guest 51Patty400 Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 My car is mechanically sound. Needs light body work (badly repaired in the past), primer, paint job and all the chrome redone. Inside, all the rubber need replacing, the dash doesn't work nor the radio. So the question is, what order do I start to restore things in? How do I make sure I can put it back together? I am video taping everything I do.- MarkPatrician 400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WCraigH Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 WRT "documenting the way it was," other posters (and I) have used a digital camera rather than a video camera. It's lot easier to randomly access a particular part or system with JPGs rather than searching sequentially thru a VHS tape. Also, keep small parts in marked plastic bags or other suitable container separated by section or function.I would recommand tackling the dash 1st and the radio since you're under there. I'd do the rubber replacement AFTER the body & paint. If you can afford it, get the chrome redone at the same time as the body work & paint. The chrome has to come off anyway. Anyway you do it, it will be fun and rewarding. keep us posted. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 I've always felt it made sense to tackle the dirtiest mechanical parts 1st and end up with the outside cosmetics last. I wince a leaning over a nice freshly painted fender as the motor gets winched in. In this case I'd go with the interior 1st and body work last. The dash, radio and instruments will prove to be a bit more frustrating than you imagine so once you have that it will fell like it's downhill from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Wiring first:It depends on condition of wires as to weather you need to replace complete wiring harnesses or not. Be sure to label all disconnected wires. It's surprising how quickly you forget exactly where they go. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I like to use masking tape wraped around wire and ballpoint pen. I've tryed other types of labels but masking tape has advantages. If insulation on wires starts to brake and fall off you can make repairs with shrink tubing, if the wire is not replaceable. (In harness or otherwise not accessable) If replacing wires, be sure to use proper guage size and type of wire. Often inoperative lights (tail, dash, etc.) are caused by rusty sockets or sockets that have been painted and the paint is causing an open circuit. If you paint sockets or any other parts that need good electrical contact, be sure to clean contact areas and apply a light coat of grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6219_Rules Posted November 16, 2004 Share Posted November 16, 2004 Twitch, if you are interested, I have had excellent results from Rhode Island Electric in building a beautiful OEM wiring harness for my '47 Cadillac. All the color codes and materials were spot on. It is not cheap...about $1200 but well worth it. One note however, you have to solder the correct ends on since they do not know exactly what is to be installed. A new wiring harness makes a huge difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Mark if you wish, we can get together one weekend and tackle the dash and the radio, and any other pits you want to tackle. Maybe even do the Carb up and get that ready to put back on for the spring. I have all the Schematisc for the radios and have the parts as well, including the tubes and capactors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FRANKL Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 i am going through my electrical system also and have just about decided to replace my harness. i thought it was pretty good looking under the hood until started troubleshooting electrical problems under the dash and found a lot of cut and disconnected wires. the rubber insulated wire is so brittle it is tough to work with. i've checked pricing for a new harness and they're all pretty much priced in the same range. I got quotes RI wire and Narragansett, both located in my little state, and potomac packard who said they only do packard. all are around $1000 for the complete car for my 49 standard deluxe. i am waiting for a catelog from unlimited wire harness. i bought a buick harness from them about 10 years ago that was very nice. i'd be interested in any comments about about quality on any of them and also their labeling and diagrams.another related item. i too need to have my radio redone. i want to keep things 6 volt. i would prefer FM but i am not that fussy about it. what is the best way to go for sound and durability while keeping the look authentic? Thanksfrank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pushbutton Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Amen to the new wiring harness! I have seen a multitude of problems go away for good with the new harness. As I said in an earlier post, the worst hack work of all is committed to the wiring on old cars. This will give you an oppertunity to straighten it out. One word of advice: don't buy the harness by make/model designation from a catalog. Remove your old harness from the car and send it to the vendor for duplication. I have experience with a frame-up we did where the boss ordered a harness "from the catalogue" and when it came time to wire up the car, some rather crucial wires were "missing" from our new harness. Point being: Packard (and other manufacturers) made changes during a model year, and to be certain your new harness is exactly as original, send the original in with your order. They can even switch over the connectors that must be re-used due to their rarity. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Harlin Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 FrankRandall cant see farther then the flying lady hood ornimants on Caddies. He said he never rode in in a Packard. Sorry Randall, couldnt help my self.You will be satisfied with the harness from Potomac Packard. We got one for a 53 Mayfair. Colors are same as fac, wires are tagged, & a wiring diagram is included. Not sure that every single socket & fittings are included but were very pleased. There is a long waiting period. Guess they take order, & make them when they receive a deposit. Randall I'll give U a ride in mine but its only a Clipper, but does have TL Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 $1000 sounds good Frank. That guy who had the 48 limo which I checked out paid $1400 for a harness. You could buy lots of beer in Rhode Island for the $400 difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6219_Rules Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 thanks Jack! You are one of the few who have offered! Well...you and Pete Hartmann.Hey what can I say...I just love the old boats. But I can recognise a beautiful well built car when I see one, and I will say, for a mass production car, it was superior to the Cadillac. More like the Duesenberg or Pierce Arrow. Whatever you do with the wiring harness, you will not be sorry. I was told by the broker selling my '47 that the new harness is a HUGE plus! And it makes the car reliable which is a god send.Thanks again Jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 51Patty400 Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Thanks Al. I finished the carb last week and it is on the car and running nicely. Once I remove the dash and radio, i'll contact you about getting together.- Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 51Patty400 Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 Thank you all for the good advice. Not sure how much I will acomplish this winter. My car is 2 hours north of me and in a cold barn. :-(Once the garage is completed next June, i'll have plenty of area to work on it.- Mark- Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 17, 2004 Share Posted November 17, 2004 I just installed a new wiring harness from Rhode island wire on my 47 Super Clipper with overdrive and Electromatic clutch. Every wire was the exact duplicate of the original and I did not have one problem. I am very pleased with the quality and the instructions. The price was about $750US. You won't be sorry putting a new harness in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Congratulation, Dave It's Not really that difficult but it Is Something that Anyone Should Be Very PROUD Of. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernardi Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Roughly, how many hours did removal of the old and installation of the new take? I'm considering redoing a '55 400, but I'm a bit gun shy. The stuff behind the dash particularly concerns me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Well for starters i really can't say how many hours the job took because I did it over a period of about 2 weeks. I would guess maybe 8-10 hours of steady work. I installed everything in the engine compartment and overdrive wires first. I removed the entire front seat and lowered the gas brake and clutch pedals to make it easier to get under the dash. On my car I removed the radio and glove box and radio centre grille as well to help see better. I also removed all the switches to clean them as well. I took the guages out and cleaned the lenses and gauge backing plates as well.Lots of dust and dirt to clean away! The wiring was pretty straight forward and I was quite surprised that it was as easy as it did. I cut the harness off where it enters the firewall and pushed the new harness through . That way I could manoeuver the old harness down and out of the way. I thought about doing it one wire at a time but decided it would be easier to just remove all the old harness and rely on the new harness instructions and the wire schematic. Other than the courtesy light wire being on the wrong terminal everything works fine. I still have to install the harness for the rear lights but this should be easy once the headliner is removed. All in all not as scary as I imagined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernardi Posted November 18, 2004 Share Posted November 18, 2004 Thanks, Dave, for the information. I'm still a little leery, but when warm weather returns I may try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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