can any one help?

[redyrxela]

I am a foreign student in college here in the U.S. I was looking online for answers on how to fix my Buick. I got the car about a year ago its an 89 Buick century wagon, 3.3L v6. Overall it’s not in a bad condition but the transmission (or something) slips under moderate acceleration, especially from a stand still. I am unfamiliar with automatic transmissions and do not know what would be causing this.

So here are my questions

1) What is the problem is it easy to fix?

2) Would it be easier to swap to a different motor? And what other motors would fit?

3) Is there any manual transmission that could be fitted to my car?

Alex

[Guest Rojo22]

Red, first thing to do is make sure the fluid level in the transmission is up to where in needs to be. I had a buick century that was very sensitive to the level of transmission fluid. It may be as simple as the fluid level. When you accelerate it sends all the fluid to the back and sometimes it causes a slip.

[JohnD1956]

I am having a similar problem with my 95 Riviera. I was wondering if maybe it has to do with the tranny fluid age causing a problem for the lock up torque converter. It's just a guess, but if the fluid is in the 100K range, it may have lost some of it's properties and maybe the lock up mechanism in the torque converter is slipping in and out of action?

I note you said it is occuring on slow throttle starts, while mine is happening right at 40 MPH and just holding speed at 1,600 rpm. Above that no problem, and downshifting out of overdrive at this range did not remove the symptoms.

[redyrxela]

i'll check that later when i have some time, that could be the problem, i know the engine oil is getting low

[Reatta Man]

John,

I suggest your Riviera is completely useless, and you need to sell it to me for $500 before it leaves you stranded. Just kidding.

The '95 Riv has the electronic transmission, and you are correct in assuming the condition of the fluid can cause shifting problems. This is because the electronic solenoid pack in the tranny can become dirty with varnish, or pieces of material could have bypassed the filter and gotten in the solenoids. When this happens, the solenoids are slow to register pressure and upshift, especially into overdrive, which explains the problem at 40 MPH. They also are slow to engage or disengage the torque coverter's lock-up mechanism when slowing down.

I would recommend you drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket, and fill up with a good fluid. Check with a tranny shop you trust and ask them if you can run Mercon V in that unit. It is a synthetic or synthetic blend of fluids, and has more detergents and stronger additives than Dextron III or IV. If they say to stick with the Dextron III or IV, use that, and then add a can of K & W Trans-X. You can find it in most part stores. It is in a silver and blue can. If the store has two sizes, use the bigger can.

Good luck.

Joe

[Guest imported_NikeAjax]

I never hear Joe give bad advice! I?m not familiar with a modern tranny, so correct me if I?m VERY WRONG here, but it sounds like a slipping clutch, or does this have bands? All the modern cars I?ve driven in, there would be a surge or noticeable slip when you start out from a stop when the tranny was falling apart from the inside. What are your thoughts here?

Jaybird

[NTX5467]

Dexron IV???? As far as I know, and what we get from GM, Dexron III is the lastest version, which superceded Dexron IIE (which came out with the first computer controlled GM automatics). Usually, in the aftermarket brands, you'll see Dexron III and Mercon IV as the same product.

Mercon V is a part synthetic base atf. I know of some transmission shops that use that in GM transmissions too, possibly for the better heat resistance of the part synthetic base oil. Pennzoil and a few other brands now have a "universal" atf that covers Dexron III, Mercon V, and Chrysler ATF+3 specs in one fluid.

Several years ago, there was an article in an auto trans trade publication about automatic trans fluids. At that time, there was a problem with some of the Turbo Hydramatic 440 transaxles about slow engagement in cold weather. The shop's owner's wife had a Lumina with that problem, so he figured it was time for a fluid & filter change, so he did that and used his "house" Dexron III fluid. The problem persisted. He scratched his head as he'd never had any problems with that fluid before.

Being inquisitive, he called the local GM dealer and ordered some of their GM-branded Dexron III fluid. He brought the Lumina back in and changed the fluid, saving the fluid he drained out. With the GM-branded fluid, the problem went away. Still scratching his head, he drained it out and put the earlier fluid back in. Problem returned. So he put the GM fluid back in and let his wife have the car back.

Still wondering why the GM fluid "worked" and the other name brand he'd been using didn't, he had some testing done and discovered the GM fluid was a good bit better in many respects than the fluid he'd been using. So, when he encountered that problem with other transmissions, instead of risking a dissatisfied customer he put the GM fluid in those transmissions.

Key point -- GM might have an aftermarket company build their Dexron III fluid for them, even a company that has their own brand of fluid, BUT if it's in a GM package, that means it's built to GM's bid specs and not what somebody thinks it should be, even if the other fluid meets the Dexron III specs. There are also several aftermarket brands that have synthetic Dexron III atf.

GM also has a good "Automatic Transmission Conditioner" that is a detergent and seal conditioner. Not a "miracle 30 minute" fix, as it recommends 1000 miles of use before draining, but it will clean things up internally before you do the fluid change. Sometimes, it's better to do a "slow clean" than a "wham bam" cleaning.

In reality, though, getting things cleaned up internally, putting a good quality Dexron III fluid with a quality transmission filter in the trans might well cure the problems you have. If the fluid colors "dark" soon after the fluid change, then you might need to do another fluid only change in the near future.

The "transmission flush" operations were popular for a while, but how "good" there are can depend on who does them, what machines they use, and if they get all of the lines hooked back up properly when they are finished. Plus, those flushes typically do not include dropping the pan and changing the filter--that's a separate deal. In some cases, they've caused more problems than they were worth, expecially after a few underhood fires (from improperly re-connected lines). It might be messier and more time consuming to drop the pan twice, but that might still be the best way to do it.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Reatta Man]

NTX,

Yep, Dexron IV is for real, but very hard to find. It is a synthetic that came out for mostly foreign applications, and the specifications are all but overtaken and replaced by Mercon V. Some people use it in specific-built transmissions, such as those used for racing or heavy hauling. It is available under the Red Line brand through Summit Racing, part # RED 30505. It is also available on a Volvo enthusiasts' Web site as part # 83522-30504.

I agree with you about the variations in quality between brands of fluid. I've heard of a Mercury dealer here in town and an independent shop that is getting good results with the Ford RWD electronic transmissions that start to slip by simply changing to fluids with different additive packages. Apparently the Fords have more slippage in them than the GM units, and if the cheaper fluids wash too much of the deposits off of old bands, they slip until all the fluid is changed, including the torque converters. Personally, I avoid Fords since I tend to break out in a rash if I'm around them for too long.

I've also heard of power flushes causing older units to fail IF the unit has had old fluid in it until around 100K miles. Apparently, the pressure of the flush pushes alot of the debris out of the unit that it needs to keep functioning. At least one shop around here will not do a flush on neglected units until the customer signs a disclaimer, understanding that a flush can cause a neglected unit to fail within 1000-1500 miles after the flush.

Joe

[JohnD1956]

I'll give this a shot. After that, who knows, it may be for sale.

Thanks for the advice.

John d

[Reatta Man]

John,

My $500 offer still stands.

Joe